I run fat, dedicated positive and ground cables from my trunk mounted battery to my relay box that powers all things Megasquirt.
71 Duster 360 turbo build
- Thread starter turbovan
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
What amp alternator are you running?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
With all the electronics for fuel injection, fuel pumps and fan I'd be looking to up grade to maybe a 100amp just to make sure. If your getting voltage drops might not be enough. I have a 200amp one, at idle it stays and through driving and getting on it 14volts
I would like to upgrade, but I have absolutely zero space in the current configuration. I do actively switch off the intercooler water pump and trans cooler fan when at low rpms. My radiator fan is capable of pulling 45+amps at full power.
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At what point is it not big enough of a drop? With zero slip the 2-3 shift should drop from 6400-4500rpm. So the converter is currently flashing(?) 1000rpm higher than that. Is this acceptable?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Damn that's a lot of amps, I have 4 7" that only pull 3 amps full power.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
How in the hell do you keep that car cool? That cannot be enough airflow.
3 amps each? It’s been 5 years since I researched/installed this fan so I’m probably off on the numbers, but it’s high. Pulls my whole system down at idle and will drain the battery and kill the car if going 100%
1000rpm drop on the shift
I was wondering this too. Id love to run this kind of setup if it’s working successfully. With my fan going full out I can feel it from behind the car.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Ok I had to go back and edit that post but I’m with ya now. 1000 rpm doesn't seem like enough drop. You could be driving through the converter, slightly. Looking at your log there is a distinct 1-2 and 2-3 shift though. I’d focus on getting the voltage situation figured out, then the fuel situation, and then do some math to figure how much slip it has.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yea good fans that pull lots of air draw a lot of current. 45 amps isn’t unheard of.
That’s not a 1-2 shift. Thats 2nd gear tire spin, but I agree the 2-3 shift does look distinctive enough to make me think the converter is hanging on. Could that .5 second rpm plateau after my shift indicate the time it’s taking for the converter to re-couple?
Fuel and voltage should be solved by the end of the week.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Gotcha.
What fluid are you running? If you’re not running hygard you could try it and it’ll tighten up the converter a bit.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Each flow 1500 cfm, plus the 2 10" fans on the heat exchanger think a total of 9000 cfm flow now with the addition of a meizere pump. Thinking of building my own shroud this winter
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Does the Microsquirt support Fan Control? I shutoff my fans at 50% TPS to free up amps when going down the track.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yes I have mine come on with temp, on at 190*
You don't have any other high output pin you could use to drive the fan relay? Also this feature is fairly new in the latest firmware. You may have to upgrade your ECU to see all of the options.
DionR
Well-Known Member
What's the offset on your front wheels? Width?
Installing a new fuel sending unit which led to rebuilding/rewiring my gauge cluster. While I’m in here I was thinking about adding a couple red LED’s as a high AFR warning. Anyone here good with circuits? I’d like to tap into the wideband 0-5v output to trigger a relay at 2.0 volts which would equal 12:1 fuel ratio. I don’t understand why this isn’t something that already exists on the market. Maybe I just can’t find it?
You could probably do it with the Megasquirt and something like a shift light and program it to power on when AFR is >12.0
Like this:
MS3Pro Programmable On/Off Outputs - (Basic)
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