72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5

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There wasn't any indications of a "limp mode" on the engine stand.

Chrysler's don't have much of any "limp modes" like mechanism for their engines. Most every sort of limp mode involves automatic transmissions. Your auto trans is going to need an accurate MPH input which will come from ABS module via a couple ABS sensors and a tone wheel somewhere

I think my engine is mounted ~5° off horizontal toward the rear. I just made sure the Oil pan and pickup agreed with the final position. Ultimately that's whats really going to care the most.
 
Got the Clutch Master cylinder installed just need a reservoir and figure out how long a line i need to the trans.

It came from a 2001 Dakota($35). It has a .708" bore and ~1.25" stroke.
This one has an aftermarket Aluminum housing but Stock and most other aftermarkets are plastic.
I had to gently message the inner fend for a little extra clearance but it possible the plastic versions may not have to.

Besides drilling two mounting holes and a little clearance of the firewall, it went in no problem.

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I went with this brand mainly because it included an all steel push rod when most other plastic MC used an overmolded plastic push rod.

I knew I would be doing a little cutting/weld on the push rod to add an easy way to adjust its length, so plastic was out.


Here's the push rod after I added a 3/8 adjuster to it. I added the adjuster to be sure I could adjust the pedal height when its all together.
Just a couple steel sleeves from the farm store. The hex sleeve is threaded.
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Installed with a shoulder bolt and lock nut.
I think the original clutch pedal spring has to go. Its just not helpful
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Earl's LS641001ERL adapts most modern clutch master cylinders to a 4AN.
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I plan to use a RAM 78130 Hydraulic throwout bearing.
It includes an upgraded bearing retainer for the T5

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I made a new model and drawing of the 3.6l flywheel to add the Ford Mustang pressure plate mounting holes.
Its at the machine shop now getting cut. Its supposed to be done this week.

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myduster360 said:
There wasn't any indications of a "limp mode" on the engine stand.

Chrysler's don't have much of any "limp modes" like mechanism for their engines. Most every sort of limp mode involves automatic transmissions. Your auto trans is going to need an accurate MPH input which will come from ABS module via a couple ABS sensors and a tone wheel somewhere

I think my engine is mounted ~5° off horizontal toward the rear. I just made sure the Oil pan and pickup agreed with the final position. Ultimately that's whats really going to care the most.
Click to expand...

Thanks again MD360,

- the lack of a LIMP-HOME-MODE in Chryslers is promising news.

- "accurate MPH" … thanks, I have the ABS module, a couple ABS sensors and a tone wheel from the donor Jeep … the trick will be installing them.

- "my engine is mounted ~5° off horizontal" … I took accurate measurements to determine the slope before removing from the Jeep, then removed it all and positioned it in my project chassis using the same measurement. But, out in the open the slope angle looked massive and frankly incorrect. I then believed my measurements must have been incorrect. So last week I was able to capture a live 3.6L Jeep Grand Cherokee, put it on a hard stand and accurately measure the slope again … that's how I got the 8° angle confirmed So my original measurements were proven correct. Then I looked at my Jeep's original auto trans mount support bracket and noticed, only with close inspection, that the small pad area where the auto trans unit mount sits and is bolted up is not horizontal … IT IS 8°. Now knowing it is correct, it's still very hard to believe how massive 8° is when viewing it sitting in my project chassis.

Thanks again for your input and time.
 
redlinegw said:
I got my engine and trans in! Yay!

View attachment 1715184748
Click to expand...

SWEET!! Took you long enough!! LOL!

DETAILS MF! Lets see the motor mounts!

I see the Caravan oil pan and hybrid A/C bypass pulley. What else?
My next unknown is the Exhaust as its real tight around the steering coupler and right inner fender. What are your thoughts?
 
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Here was my general idea for exhaust "manifolds"

two 1-3/4" tight radius elbows to a 2 to 1 collector

The elbows are coming from Vibrant and the collector Doug's/Patriot exhaust. both via Summit.

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Progress
Flywheel is ready to go after being drilled for the Mustang T5 pressure plate. Just in time too since the new Ram Hydraulic throw-out bearing is here too.
I just have to put the finishing touches on the T5 and it'll be ready to bolt back on the engine.
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The bottom end of the 3.6L needs buttoned up for, hopefully, the last time. So I had to clean up the Caravan oil pan, remove the remnants of a busted off dipstick tube(bee-otch) and install a new matching oil pump pickup tube.

No your eyes are fine, the 3.6L pickup tube is GINORMOUS!
Hemi, Schemi This bad boy measures ~1-1/8"
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jedrattle said:
Any updates?
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yep been busy. I got the T5 all buttoned up with a new shift fork, seals, and Ram Hydraulic Throw out bearing. Spaced it out to ~.188" per Ram instructions. Got the intake, oil pan, heater hoses, alternator back on the engine along with the trans. (vice grip pliers as "shifter" lever)

I just need to drill a hole(s) in the bell housing for the clutch lines but want to get the engine and trans back in the car to be sure the lines route smoothly back to the Clutch master.

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The rest of the car is still mostly a shell, so I've been focusing on the brakes currently.

Learning new skills making my own Brake lines!
The first brake line(lt frt) is fabbed up and flared out of Ni-Cu(very forgiving and easy to flare)

I used a scrap piece pf 12-2 conductor to get a routing sample made. You can see the Right front test sample on the firewall in the below picture.

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15/16" Aluminum Master Cylinder off a Dakota is mounted on a AR Engineering adapter. I use a manual brake rod from a B-body that seemed to fit perfectly. I used the old M/C lines and distribution block as they seemed to be in decent enough shape. If I have enough Ni-Cu brake line left, I may make new M/C lines
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Learned a project/task scheduling tool at work a while back that I thought I'd use on the Dart to prioritize tasks.

Rows: Major categories on the car
Columns: signify what's being worked on Now, what's next, on hold or DONE

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Nice! I'm super interested in seeing this thing move under its own power. I like the weight of this driveline and the power output with a turbo. I was telling a guy at work about this setup. He said 375-400 at the tires is a good ticket getter! Lol He has a 331 turbo'd SB '68 Mustang. I'm really think about this because at some point I'll have to rebuild the engine. I feel that I could do this conversion for about the same price as a well built 408 stroker (probably without the turbo for that price). That's provided I can shop the parts right. I need to educate myself on T5 trans and start shopping for one.
 
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Maybe I missed it in your thread, but what application T5 are you using? I'm wondering about your input shaft length as will as the length of the bellhousing plus shims.
 
Greg55_99 said:
Maybe I missed it in your thread, but what application T5 are you using? I'm wondering about your input shaft length as will as the length of the bellhousing plus shims.
Click to expand...

I have a Ford Racing "Z-spec" T5, M-7003-Z
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Post #50 has more dimensions
Posts #167-180 has detailed pictures of the adapter plate and bell housing.
 
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Some more progress.


FUEL
Got a spare Walbro 450 pump mounted in the Tanks $30 pickup and wired. The tank will be installed shortly once the filler neck is cleaned up.
Wiring will be next. I'm installing a trunk mounted Battery and a secondary Fuel pump relay will be installed in the trunk near it. The PCM's pump relay in the factory TIPM will be used to energize it.
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BRAKES DONE!
Also Finished running the rear Brake line, installed new wheel cylinders, hoses, buttoned it all up and the BRAKES BLED! Awesome feeling to have a major system on the car finished.

GLASS
Picked up a back glass local but cant seem to find a decent windshield that's not $400. We're going to the Mopar Nats so shouldn't have much issue finding one there.
 
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Did you reinforce your firewall where you installed the clutch master?
I've noticed on some cars that I have done had flexing at the mounting.
 
Revhendo said:
Did you reinforce your firewall where you installed the clutch master?
I've noticed on some cars that I have done had flexing at the mounting.
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I haven't but it hasn't had much load on it either. I'm not thinking it'll need much if any.

The Dart firewall seems to have decent amount of raised geometry all around where I mounted the Clutch master. So its not a large flat area like the E & B bodies. And the Steering column retainer plate is shoring up the small flat area right next to it.

I'm not about to do any FEA on it but my experience in FEA tells me it should't be too bad,,, that and just cranking on it by hand to give it some side loading lol.

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4.7Light said:
How goes the conversion to 3.6 anything new?
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Yes lots,,,but most just getting the car back together in general. I've determined I would have been up and driving a LONG time ago if I wasn't starting out with a disassembled shell. lol


I was missing a few key parts, so what better excuse to go the NATs to find them! Saves on shipping!

A new Front Windshield(not shown) was the big one i needed. A year or so ago Safe-light said they'd install a new one for ~$220. Awesome!,,,,But when I called then a couple weeks ago, the price was now $360 and I had to supply the new seal.($120). So F That,,I picked up a new windshield from the Stephens Performance tent at the Nats for $216.

Both Roof rail weatherstrip retainers were the other big parts that were MIA on my car.

Carpet($145), headlight surrounds($40), Roof rail weatherstrip retainer 2x($80), Flip top gas cap($15)
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Got both Roof rail weatherstrip retainers installed this week with new weatherstrip.
I spent a good HOUR getting the two passenger windows lined up with one another and the weatherstrip. A real pita.

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My Drivers side 1/4 window regulator is a bit jacked up so it needs a couple new plastic bits before it will roll up smooth.



Besides reassembling the body, I'm working on getting the Wrangler dash harness installed along with the TIPM(relay box). Trying to avoid cutting yet another hole in the firewall.
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DEAL of Year: Goodmark manual side mirror $37 from RockAuto.
Most of this style at the NATs were between $90-$120.
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I'm going to install my Flip Top gas cap today.
 
JDMopar said:
Looking good. Where did you buy the spring that goes around your brake lines? I make my own lines also, and would like to buy enough to do a few cars.
Click to expand...

I will need to fab a couple of new lines on my wagon so I bought a 3 or 4 ft length of the spiral armor from Rick Ehrenburg of Mopar Action fame on eBay
 
STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A REAL CAR!!!!!
Got the dash put in, side glass cleaned up and a new Windshield and Back glass installed!!

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backgalss molding installed too!
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Threw the front half of carpet down just to make it look more done lol
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Battery bulkhead connector installed too

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