72 Dart Swinger 3.6L Pentastar +T5

[myduster360]

Curious... How did you overcome the cooling fan issue? I'm putting an '07 Charger 5.7 into my '50 Dodge Panel Van right now and am using all factory wiring modules in an effort to retain ABS, Cruise, etc. (with the exception of the airbags). I'm using a Northern radiator meant for a '57 Chevy (because it fits my space requirements) along with the dual fan setup meant for that radiator. Worst case scenario, I'll swap the Northern fans out for the stock Chrysler fans from the Charger radiator which I still have. Honestly, and please excuse my ignorance here, I don't even know if I'll have the same issue because I don't know whether the Charger uses PWM fan motors. I just haven't gotten that far yet.

I haven't fully integrate fan control into my car but i have a plan

Your 2007 Charger just looks to be a Relay in the Front Control Module which is pretty straight forward(see below). Factory is a 2 speed, but you don't have to integrate both speeds. I don't intend to. I plan to just use a high speed and not overly complicate it with 2 different speeds.

 

[Yunick13]

A very innovative build.

 

[myduster360]

EXHAUST Headers:

I got the Passenger side tack'd and ready for TIG, so i figure a little more comprehensive description of my work.


The 3.6 Pentastar has an odd ball single exhaust port. First task was getting new flanges. The flanges were cut from 3/8 stainless to these dimensions

To get the weird shape formed, I used an old Catalytic Convertor flange cut in half and weld to my vice as a forming tool. Its an old header fabrication tip the Googles told me about.

On the Left side, the steering box dicated that no more than a 2.5" OD/radii elbow would fit around the coupler.

But when all was said and done, it fit fine but I wasn't happy with the smallish opening that the 2.5" provided. I don't have much choice but its not ideal.

Since I had a bit more room on the right side, I wanted to give a larger diameter a go. I mocked up a 1:1 paper cutout of a 3" OD; 3" centerline radius elbow to check the potential fit. Looked decent

I formed the shape in the elbow with my forming die just like I did with the Driver's side. Then I milled the flange opening to fit along with a lot of hammering, banging, bending and cussing to get it fit


End result is not too bad. The larger 3" of the Passenger side in just a tad larger all the way around than the head port. Once welded, it'll be dead on.

Its fit to the chassis is good too.

Here it is compared to the Drivers side prior to welding.

Here the stark difference in diameter and well as offset from the head. It's obvious the 2.5" is a far tighter fit.

I plan to adapt the 3" back down to 2.5" with this tapered cone from Vibrant

 

[Stephen Hotz]

Looking good

 

[famous bob]

EXHAUST Headers:

I got the Passenger side tack'd and ready for TIG, so i figure a little more comprehensive description of my work.


The 3.6 Pentastar has an odd ball single exhaust port. First task was getting new flanges. The flanges were cut from 3/8 stainless to these dimensions
View attachment 1715401244

To get the weird shape formed, I used an old Catalytic Convertor flange cut in half and weld to my vice as a forming tool. Its an old header fabrication tip the Googles told me about.
View attachment 1715401246


On the Left side, the steering box dicated that no more than a 2.5" OD/radii elbow would fit around the coupler.
View attachment 1715401245

But when all was said and done, it fit fine but I wasn't happy with the smallish opening that the 2.5" provided. I don't have much choice but its not ideal.
View attachment 1715401252


Since I had a bit more room on the right side, I wanted to give a larger diameter a go. I mocked up a 1:1 paper cutout of a 3" OD; 3" centerline radius elbow to check the potential fit. Looked decent

View attachment 1715401263

I formed the shape in the elbow with my forming die just like I did with the Driver's side. Then I milled the flange opening to fit along with a lot of hammering, banging, bending and cussing to get it fit


End result is not too bad. Here it is compared to the Drivers side prior to welding. The larger 3" of the Passenger side in just a tad larger all the way around than the head port. Once welded, it'll be dead on.

View attachment 1715401220

Its fit to the chassis is good too.
View attachment 1715401264


Here the stark difference in diameter and well as offset from the head.
View attachment 1715401225
It's obvious the 2.5" is a far tighter fit.
View attachment 1715401239

I plan to adapt the 3" back down to 2.5" with this tapered cone from Vibrant

View attachment 1715401308

Fantastic work , but I think I would have made them all the same size . NO BAD MOUTHING INTENDED .

 

[myduster360]

Finished TIG welding the Right side "manifold"

 

[myduster360]

NEW $35 WHEEL!
I had a set of wheels on backorder from Amazon but they cancelled the order after a few weeks. So after I got the cancelation notice, I when went back to look up the part number to search for some more, this CHEAP single wheel popped up. I figured I better jump on it before someone catches it. Worse case is was a cheap way to test fit and verify clearances. Best case I'd save myself $135.

It showed up today and it fit pretty well front and rear. I really want the SAME SIZE WHEEL on all 4 corners and I think this is it.
The 20mm offset is close to ideal for a 9.5" rim.

Its fairly centered in the wheel well.
~.25" inch from the spring(Dr.Diff relocation)
~.4" from the fender lip

Full Lock shows decent clearances

Next step is to get one of my 265/35-18 Kuhmos mounted and then order 3 more from one of the several vendors on Ebay.

 

[mygasser]

Could you grind/file/sand the weld back to the inside size of the pipe on the smaller one to get it as restriction free as possible? To be honest a 2.5" pipe is more then big enough for half a 3.6 litre motor so you'll be fine anyway. Keep up the good work.
Neil.

 

[JayinMI]

It gives you an option for "Buy it Again" so, 3 more times? lol Full set for $140. Cheaper than steelies.

 

[myduster360]

It gives you an option for "Buy it Again" so, 3 more times? lol Full set for $140. Cheaper than steelies.

lol I tried but no dice $179
I did find one on Walmart.com for $61! ......But the day after I bought it, they canceled my order and the price changed on the website to $180 each

 

[myduster360]

UPDATE: I failed to mention this earlier but I needed to gain a little added Engine/Chassis/Draglink) clearance.
If you have 1972 and older Biscuit mounts this is super easy. JUST USE A THICKER MOUNTS!

I simply used the mounts off a mid-70s Dodge Van. They're identical except a little stiffer a a good .375" thicker. My CG took a bit a of a hit raising the engine but it is what is
This is the motor mount from a 1974 B100 Van 360

This is the 1972 Dart SB,,a good deal thinner

 

[myduster360]

The fit is Decent. The rears a little tight with the Front half of the leaf spring.

The Front is a hitting the front lock nut on my SPC control arms at full lock and full droop. There's only an eyeball wheel alignment so for sure the UCA is getting moved. I was wanting to take out the Anti-dive and that would conveniently help out the UCA to Wheel clearance too.

The front end is down as it can go. Apparently you get that with a 340lb 3.6 and 1.0" bars(can't wait to get the car on the scales!)

 

[myduster360]

Power Steering Delete bracket pulley as found on a 2018 JL Wrangler
5281457AA

 

[myduster360]

I added a 3mm spacer to rear to add a skosh more room between the tire and spring. If I had welded the spring perches further in by the same amount, the spacers wouldn't be needed.

Stancemagic hubcentric ~$12 off Amazon for 2

 

[myduster360]

 

[myduster360]

I picked this up a few weeks ago

From day one I said I was going to put on a Turbo but the Torque curve of a supercharged 3.6l looks MADE for autocross

 

[toplscuda]

That will be bad ***

 

[Yunick13]

You could still do both. Turbos suffer from lag, where superchargers suffer at the top end. Doing both makes up for it, just costs more to do.

 

[famous bob]

You could still do both. Turbos suffer from lag, where superchargers suffer at the top end. Doing both makes up for it, just costs more to do.

THAT WOULD BE A LOTTA CRAP I AN A BODY !

 

[Idaho]

Really impressive build on numerous fronts. Was up late going through the whole thing last nighe. The electronics - holy Dinah! Your persistence and technical prowess are quite something.
We have the 3.6 in a Caravan for my wife. She loves the power. I have one in a 1/2 ton RAM. Awesome engine. Hard to beat VVT. Engine bay looks half empty.
Being light weight, compact, great power potential, thousands in junk yards, I can see others following your path.

I got the Radiator upper and lower mounts fabricated and 09-14 LX radiator bolted in

I'm thinking this rad / fan setup could work for my 69 Dart / 408 project.
Excuse my ignorance but what is an "LX".

 

[myduster360]

Really impressive build on numerous fronts. Was up late going through the whole thing last nighe. The electronics - holy Dinah! Your persistence and technical prowess are quite something.
We have the 3.6 in a Caravan for my wife. She loves the power. I have one in a 1/2 ton RAM. Awesome engine. Hard to beat VVT. Engine bay looks half empty.
Being light weight, compact, great power potential, thousands in junk yards, I can see others following your path.


I'm thinking this rad / fan setup could work for my 69 Dart / 408 project.
Excuse my ignorance but what is an "LX".

Thank! Its been a challenge for sure.

An LX body is a 300/Magnum/Charger

 

[Idaho]

Thanks, I imagine there should be plenty 09 - 14s in junkyards. I would think a single speed setup should be straight forward.

A couple questions. What damper are you running? Just discovered I'll need to change to one without counterweight since I'm planning an internally balanced stroker kit.
Also curious what compression you are running.

 

[myduster360]

Thanks, I imagine there should be plenty 09 - 14s in junkyards. I would think a single speed setup should be straight forward.

A couple questions. What damper are you running? Just discovered I'll need to change to one without counterweight since I'm planning an internally balanced stroker kit.
Also curious what compression you are running.

A Stroker kit for a 3.6L Pentastar?
I've never seen nor heard of one.

 

[Idaho]

Happy thanksgiving everyone.[/QUOTE]

A Stroker kit for a 3.6L Pentastar?
I've never seen nor heard of one.

OOPS my bad. I posted that question on the wrong thread. Up too late, brain fried. I'm building a 408 stroker. Not nearly as interesting as a 3.6

 

[myduster360]

UPDATE!

I'm getting CLOSE to having a fully road worthy car! I finished modifying the passenger floor for the new buckets, sealed all the seams and cut new insulation for the floor.

If you want something lightweight and is a proven thermal and acoustic insulator? Look into 3M Thinsulate.
I've used it in several commercial and retail products as both a thermal and noise insulator and it works great.
So when looking for a lightweight alternative, it was the natural choice.

I got 4 yards of 60" 3M® Thinsulate UDS Insulation @ $9/ linear yard.
There's many different varieties of Thinsulate but I think the UDS 157 gram offered the best R-value/mass/thickness

I put in on the Firewall and behind the Headliner too. I ran out of material but would have liked to lay it behind the rear seat as well. I still might order another yard or two for that.