72 Dodge Dart Swinger

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SoCal mopar

SoCal mopar

Mopar Dude
Joined
Jun 15, 2021
Messages
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Location
Simi Valley
225 /6, auto, 3 speed column shift, bench seat, 13” small bolt patter with hubcaps…. Some cancer…. Cooling issues, electrical gremlins, 55k miles, most receipts from about 1980, sat for about 4+ years before purchase. Owned by same women since about 80….

Somebody did make changes to the car which are not documented. I ran the fender plate and found it was a triple black vinyl top car. Now white with no vinyl top.

More to follow…..

As I learn about my new A body I will post what I learn and the progress I make. I hope to help others with what I learn.

I have a 73 barracuda and 73 charger also under construction. This won’t be a garage queen or a fast rebuild. This will be a regular driver that is over all 50’ @ 50mph. For the body style and price I couldn’t pass this car up.


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Here is the breakdown of my fender tag. Pic attached.

Key words: fender tag , tag breakdown, tag decoder, fender codes, VIN decoder

Fender tag / Vin decoder website for classic mopars:

Mopar Fender Tag Decoder

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CodeDescription
E24225 1 Barrel 6 Cyllinder
D34TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission
LH23L = Dodge Dart / Demon
H = High
23 = 2 Door Hardtop
C2BC = 225 110HP(net) 1-1BBL 6 CYL
2 = 1972
B = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
302826Sequence Number '302826'
HT6Paint Code: Unknown At This Time
E2X9Trim Grade/Style/Color
E = Economy
2 = Vinyl Bench
X9 = Black
TX9Upper Door Frame: Black / Black Velvet
201Date Built: 2 / 01 / 1972
154692Order Number: 154692
V1XRoof Type OR Color: Full Vinyl Top - Black
UBuilt to Specifications for USA Order
B51Power Assisted Brakes
G11Tinted Glass All
G33Left Hand Outside Mirror - Manual / Chrome
H51Single Air /w Heater
J253 Speed Variable Wipers
L25Trunk Compartment Light
L31Hood / Fender Mount Turn Signal
M21Roof Drip Rail Moldings
M43Grill Surround Molding
M88Quater Panel Tape Treatment
N95Nox Exhaust Emission Control
R11Music Master Radio AM
V5XBlack - Mouldings - Protective Insert Body Side
EN1End of Codes Assembly Line 1
 
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ah! so you're the one that scooped it up!

i saw it and contemplated, but i'm currently on double secret probation from buying more cars at the moment. looked like a solid car and a good deal.
 
It was so so. It has its pitfalls for sure - more cancer than I realized - the studs were ground off for the chrome around the bottom of the rear window and painted over - driver side headlight is inside the wrong dart grill piece(different year?) vertical lines not horizontal, some chrome is missing based on the fender tag breakdown, and there is something wrong with the engine I'm not catching - you saw my rebuild post.... I've done the work I can do at home and am taking it to a shop on Monday to troubleshoot and perform maintenance on some stuff I don't have the resources or time to do.

Time will tell how good a deal it was. As long as it runs I don't care. I want a driver.

If I had my own shop this would be a quick flip kind of great car. I've got a 318 and 904 sitting and would make a great swap. I am going to keep the 225 but the car has potential.
 
So today I started replacing lights ..... Stuck my thumb though a weak reverse lens, broke the driver side fender turn signal (badly corroded), found most of my light sockets need to be cleaned to make a better connection/work better .... decided to take a break.

I’m going to try some LED. But so far the common lights look better to me than the LED.

Below are the replacement lights I have bought for the car so far.

My local parts stores all carry Sylvania so these numbers are as I have found them.

I spent a lot of time sitting in the isles using this bulb-finder search function.

This is a sticky in the electic forum:

Light bulb chart

Sylvania Automotive Bulb Replacement Guide

Tail lights -
Reverse lights - 1156

Break / running lights / turn signal - 1157

Front turn signal - 1157A (amber)

Head lights - H6024

Dome light - 1004
Dash light - 1445
Map light - 89
Trunk light - 1004
Engine compartment light - 1003
Glove box light - 1891
Side marker lights -
Front - 194
Rear - 194

To be continued.......

The brighter bulb is common type and the dim is LED .

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So following my last post I was replacing turn signal and dash lights as they were only partially working.

My dash was so brittle it broke down like a vampire in the sun! :BangHead:

Good news, bad grounds and now all lights are working - good news right....

Putting it all back together I touched the amp gauge to the metal housing with a screwdriver and POP!

After some poking around I found it was only around the AMP gauge and know where else on the dash. looking at the AMP Gauge the fiberglass/plastic bushing was destroyed, effectively arching the black and red wires. Thank god I found it now and not later with an electrical fire.

I have a set of gauges I am going to install but wanted to replace the dash with a good bezel not a garage made one. Oh well.

I am going to add the volt Gauge and delete the Ammeter for the time but will add a new Ammeter later. I like having the charge and draw gauges.

I looked at quite a few posts to research the removal of the Ammeter and addition of the volt Gauge.

Here are the ones I found the most influential.

1968 Dart gauge help

Amp gauge to volt conversion?

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480

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After my fiasco yesterday I am making a temp dash. Paper template, Plexiglas backing and I’m going to cover with carbon fiber wrap/adhesive film….

Now to glue the broken pieces back on, epoxy the gaps, sand the housing, paint, drill holes for my temporary gauges.

More to come.

Not my motivation for this dash, but something I found while cruising the how to section today. Because the car has stock 56k I wanted to keep the odometer. Otherwise I would be copying this dash or the similar Dakota series. definitely not spending 6-800.

Cluster. Make your own Custom Gauge cluster

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Baby steps when creating the vision. But it is sometimes nice to see a glimpse into the future.

After cracking multiple backs, dealing with gauge issues and trying to modify the dash as little as possible, here is what I have so far.

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The 72 swinger dash can rot in the wrecking yard! I broke my customized dash into a thousand pieces today! I was slightly pissed.

I’m cleaning up somebody else’s wiring **** show.

Why can’t I have the special, base, rallye…. No, I have the swinger. No other aftermarket dashes fit these because they are Dimensionally different .

Somehow somewhere I popped the radio fuse i used the key hot wire for. I’m pretty sure I broke the speedo cable ….. that’s what I have found so far. Welcome to classics and customization.


:BangHead:
 
the joys of socal mopars: zero-point-zero rust. solid bodies for dayyyyssss
the scourge of socal mopars: all the plastic turns to dust. roached paint and baked interior.
 
Nice find, I believe the factory color is white.
Nobody would go thru the trouble of painting it under the hood, then letting it get that greasy.
 
sireland67 said:
Nice find, I believe the factory color is white.
Nobody would go thru the trouble of painting it under the hood, then letting it get that greasy.
Click to expand...
I've found white, cream and even gold in multiple places on the quarter panels. I've wandered if the fender tag has been replaced but I dont know. The door panel metal is painted black where it is usually body color and I have seen what appears to be black over spray in a few hidden corners.

But i agree that it sounds unlikely. I don't see any hard proof of a vinyl top either. However if somebody dedicated enough got rid of the top, did it right, they may have painted it correctly.

The puzzles of the old cars.
 
SoCal mopar said:
I've found white, cream and even gold in multiple places on the quarter panels. I've wandered if the fender tag has been replaced but I dont know. The door panel metal is painted black where it is usually body color and I have seen what appears to be black over spray in a few hidden corners.

But i agree that it sounds unlikely. I don't see any hard proof of a vinyl top either. However if somebody dedicated enough got rid of the top, did it right, they may have painted it correctly.

The puzzles of the old cars.
Click to expand...
So true on the puzzle, I would hate to be the guy that goes thru my Duster 50 years from now.
 
67Dart273 said:
f you look at diagram "A", you'll have to then follow the wiring colors off to the "B" page

The top fuse is a bit of a trick and is the ONLY fuse wired this way. The tan is "dash dimmer" power coming FROM the headlight switch. The dimmer circuit obtains power from the tail light circuit. Once through the fuse, the orange feeds out "dimmed" dash light power to all the instrument cluster/ radio lights

The 2nd and 3rd fuses down, fed power from the red at left, get this power from the "in harness splice" taped up in the under dash harness, and comes off the ammeter circuit

These two fuses are the ones that are HOT all the time, not affected by the ignition switch. Fuse two feeds off to the right, to page "B".

On fuse 2nd down:

RED goes to the cigarette lighter, and PINK feeds the tail light circuit on the headlight switch

On fuse 3rd down:

One PINK feeds power to the dome light

The other PINK feeds the emergency flasher and brake light switch power

The next three fuses, 4, 5, 6, are fed power from the ignition switch and so are ONLY HOT in "ACC" or "RUN"

4th fuse down feeds a number of things, RADIO, backup lights, and turn signal flasher

5 feeds the heater

last one ??

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartB.jpg

from here:

MyMopar

I don't know how much different the 74 is from 72, you can download the 72 factory manual from here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

Here's a shot out of the '72 manual, looks to me like things did not change much:
Click to expand...

Gotta thank 67dart273 from a post in 2012...

I printed the 72 wiring diagram off and already had it, but he/this post, helped me understand a little more clearly what i was looking at. Now to finish my new gauges.

Photos to follow....

Key words: 72 dart fuse block dash fuses
 
SoCal mopar said:
Here is the breakdown of my fender tag. Pic attached.

Key words: fender tag , tag breakdown, tag decoder, fender codes, VIN decoder

Fender tag / Vin decoder website for classic mopars:

Mopar Fender Tag Decoder

View attachment 1716269672

CodeDescription
E24225 1 Barrel 6 Cyllinder
D34TorqueFlite Automatic Transmission
LH23L = Dodge Dart / Demon
H = High
23 = 2 Door Hardtop
C2BC = 225 110HP(net) 1-1BBL 6 CYL
2 = 1972
B = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
302826Sequence Number '302826'
HT6Paint Code: Unknown At This Time
E2X9Trim Grade/Style/Color
E = Economy
2 = Vinyl Bench
X9 = Black
TX9Upper Door Frame: Black / Black Velvet
201Date Built: 2 / 01 / 1972
154692Order Number: 154692
V1XRoof Type OR Color: Full Vinyl Top - Black
UBuilt to Specifications for USA Order
B51Power Assisted Brakes
G11Tinted Glass All
G33Left Hand Outside Mirror - Manual / Chrome
H51Single Air /w Heater
J253 Speed Variable Wipers
L25Trunk Compartment Light
L31Hood / Fender Mount Turn Signal
M21Roof Drip Rail Moldings
M43Grill Surround Molding
M88Quater Panel Tape Treatment
N95Nox Exhaust Emission Control
R11Music Master Radio AM
V5XBlack - Mouldings - Protective Insert Body Side
EN1End of Codes Assembly Line 1
Click to expand...
HT6

H is the year designation:
E 1969
F 1970
G 1971
H 1972

T6 is the color -
doe skin poly ?

:rolleyes: the puzzle continues....
 
Finally in and I am actually very happy. I was concerned about the arctic white, plain, dome auto meter gauges, but am pleasantly surprised.

The gps speedo is pretty nice as well…

I’m going to have to sell this wire diagram when I’m done - or frame it :rofl:

Now to troubleshoot why my headlights and turn signals aren’t working. Parking lights work, tail lights work, rear marker lights work….. but no turn signals front or back, or headlights….

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Thanks - I had so many problems with grounds and general wiring - much cleaner now than when i found it!

GPS gauge is nice to have. Now to replace the turn signal switch i think i broke while installing the dash....
 
It has been a month since finishing my dash and last posting. Been frustratingly busy .. . . . Since pulling the dash I have gotten to know the wiring system intimately. It's been a domino effect of problems. I think I have them figured out - for now- fingers crossed I can work on the original projects before the dash and gauges took my time and money.

Ground issues in trunk with ground wire :BangHead: tail light wasn't grounding to housing unit :BangHead: wire connectors in trunk for brakes and signals were or had invisibly burnt or broken, had to rewire :BangHead: replaced turn signal cam only to have a part of the unit melt and burn a wire - pulled wheel twice and replaced entire cam unit second time :BangHead: found a burnt wire going into the steering column which effected the brakes :BangHead: had an issue with the fuse panel blowing fusses and then not showing a blown fuse :BangHead: poor contact when wire blocks make connection ......:BangHead:

None of these threw up a white flag and said, HELLO YOUR PROBLEM IS RIGHT HERE!!!!!
Thank God I know how to use a voltmeter and have learned how to read the wiring schematics.....


225 single barrel is a dog! Rebuild kit on the way.
Pertronix II ignition kit / Flamethrower on the way.
ESPO springs ordered - 3 month back order
need to get a vacuum gauge.

Tomorrow I am going to set valve lashing. I have never done it but am confident with engines. If YouTube videos are accurate it should be easy and I am hoping for solid gains - for a 225 I mean. . .

I am only getting about 9 miles to the gallon so ..... ouch.....

I can smell gas in the exhaust while it runs. Today I readjusted the idle air mixture and it seems to be ok at 1.5 - 2 turns. Messed with the idle screws a little but without a vacuum gauge I'm not getting anything done I don't think. I did get RPM to about 800 in neutral.

While at idle I did close the air mixture screws and the car didn't die. It did skip a little but ran. Hopefully means no compromising vacuum leak is present.


Moved the accelerator pump / throttle response J hook wire to the fast response hole ( I don't know what it is called). Actually gave it a little more throttle response. Still a dog, just a little bit bigger one.

I need to figure out how to adjust kick down as I don't think it is accurate either.

Oh yeah, fuel sending unit is bad - ran out of gas at 3/4 of a tank :rofl:

I am not winning and races or contest but am enjoying driving it around town. And when somebody asks who is doing my work ....... THIS GUY!
 
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Valve lashing / adjustment done.

Actually very easy to do while it is running. Valve cover was a ***** to get off only because of all the fuel lines, vacuum lines, etc..... cleaning all that up is a project for another day.

After doing it I would rather do the adjustments hot and running than off and cold. Personal preference but supper easy. Very minimal oil splashing. Checked the entire valve line 4 times, with minor adjustments and it only took me 15 minutes. If you are prepared with the 11mm (I had it on hand - sorry) and 3/8 deep sockets and extensions, it can be done in half hour.

I don't think it helped my application though.....

I think my carburetor is the choke point for my acceleration issues. Rebuild kit on the way so that will be done soon.
 
Today I put in the Pertronix ignition kit and the Pertronix Flame Thrower II Coil.

I did the fuel hose modification to reroute the line In front of my engine. Couldn't figure out why the seat and needle wouldn't work on the fuel intake side of the carb. . . spewing gas from my carb. . . . Ended up breaking the brass fitting and then decided to rebuild my carb and take a break. :BangHead:

I was so pissed I couldn't start the car after replacing ignition and redirecting the fuel lines and the breaking the brass seat and needle fitting.

I used a walker kit to rebuild the carb - it was ok. I did find out that my carb is missing the diaphragm spring and the float spring. I also found the seat and needle in the carb to begin with was the wrong one. Carb had been molested...... :BangHead:

I put the carb back together without the springs to see if there would be any difference in power, throttle response, efficiency....

After a couple turns the car started and spewed so much white smoke out the exhaust :rofl: kind of flooded I guess.

Result . . . . . It is out of time and the carb isn't 100% without the springs, the air/fuel screw might need adjustment, idle screws could use tuning, and I need to adjust the kick down linkage again, BUT the performance gain was night and day. Now I feel like the car is getting where it should be. I think I can pass a car on the freeway now. :rofl: Very happy with the outcome.
 
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