72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Also finally got around to getting the short front wheel studs swapped out for the longer 3" ones. Took forever, but found a way to do it WITHOUT having to take the whole wheel hub off the car, so it was worth it. About 3 hours for one side. Doing the other side tomorrow. Ended up using the rotor vents jammed with a screwdriver to keep the thing steady and long-barred the hex wrench on the backside - popped them off easy and torqued to 65ft/lbs each. Of course the studs are also properly anti-seize greased as well to do it right.
Recommendation - if you're guessing whether to order 3" or 2" studs from doctor diff kits, try to do your wheel fitment first if you can and figure out how deep your lug nut well is and the thickness of your wheel mount flange so you'll know how much grab your lugs will get on those studs. I'm also highly aware that the surface contact area on these calipers/pads is very wasted on the outer edge of the rotor. It still stops well but just seems odd.
Recommendation - if you're guessing whether to order 3" or 2" studs from doctor diff kits, try to do your wheel fitment first if you can and figure out how deep your lug nut well is and the thickness of your wheel mount flange so you'll know how much grab your lugs will get on those studs. I'm also highly aware that the surface contact area on these calipers/pads is very wasted on the outer edge of the rotor. It still stops well but just seems odd.
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