Yep- this was my first time ever driving a manual steering car... Not bad once used to it!
72 duster resto
- Thread starter 72smallairparticler
- Start date
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I have always preferred the road fell of manual box. MS is good in a small block, but yes it can be tough with a big block car. I have had many dozens of BB B bodies, 99% were manual and sticks. I loved them.
Today, so many of the younger gen can not drive a stick, must has PS and AC!!! Go figure!!!!!!
Mine's a fancy slant and automatic... Wish it were stick... maybe someday...
Not gonna lie- AC would be nice! Been kicking around the idea of this electric system- I do have enough alternator to power it... https://qualyair.us/products/new-a-c-universal-kit-underdash-electric-compressor-air-conditioner-12v
@72smallairparticler - Sorry for polluting your thread, but I always enjoy having some conversations in them.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Fire away! That's a cool AC system too. My Duster had AC on the slant that I pulled out so I have all the underdash components there. This might fit the ticket down the road. The price is good too
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Retrofitting my parking brake cables to work with the 8.8. I know there are others who've just cut the stock brake cable shroud to get access to the cable wire itself and then built loops to grab the actuator on the back of the brake housing. I ended up taking a different approach. Grabbed a set of 2005 grand cherokee brake cables that I picked up for $26. Theyre about 18" longer than stock so I cut them down. The axle ends fit the housings nicely clipping into the factory ford 8.8 parking brake loop and the cables have a rectangular slot that fits the actuator with a little persuasion.
On the other side where I cut the housing I was able to route that through the factory hole under the car where the stock ones mount with the clip. From here you basically have to make a choice of how you want to connect both the stock exposed cabling system and the exposed portion of the new cable. I wasn't aware of any other method of building my own "Ball" at the end of my freshly cut cable that might fit into the factory cable to cable link. I dont know the term for it either if there is one lol.
For right now I have this clamp placed over both cables, but still looking for a better more permanent solution before I start adjusting the cable tensions. If I end up staying with this, i'll add a few more just for extra strength and to tidy it up.
Also grabbed a good set of new hardware to get my rear shocks mounted to the new shock plates and bought some weld tabs for mounting the soft brake lines to the housing in a manner that will allow me to bolt them on in correct position. After that's sorted, the rear is done til the engine / trans go in.
On the other side where I cut the housing I was able to route that through the factory hole under the car where the stock ones mount with the clip. From here you basically have to make a choice of how you want to connect both the stock exposed cabling system and the exposed portion of the new cable. I wasn't aware of any other method of building my own "Ball" at the end of my freshly cut cable that might fit into the factory cable to cable link. I dont know the term for it either if there is one lol.
For right now I have this clamp placed over both cables, but still looking for a better more permanent solution before I start adjusting the cable tensions. If I end up staying with this, i'll add a few more just for extra strength and to tidy it up.
Also grabbed a good set of new hardware to get my rear shocks mounted to the new shock plates and bought some weld tabs for mounting the soft brake lines to the housing in a manner that will allow me to bolt them on in correct position. After that's sorted, the rear is done til the engine / trans go in.
I used a thing called a "nicopress sleeve" for that wire end application. Learned about them in some past general aviation experience. Bought the special pliers and used them a whopping once! Lol
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
You should rent those out and recoup your costs lol. I'm sure it's a massive market!
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Got the tabs welded on and the hoses mounted now. The soft line bends are a bit sharp which was annoying because they had to be in order to point in the right direction. Also, my hardline tube ended up being too long so had to cut, clean, flare one side and now all the funky ford bends make it look ridiculous lol. It's hard to take the extra time to make things look great when customizing.
Last up for the rear is hooking up the brake line to the front to rear hard line at the stock location. Then fill, bleed, and test.
Just got my torque converter bolts and new 20:1 gearbox. Once the gearbox is back on i'll yank the engine off the mount and start mating it to the 727 for install. Exciting times!
Had to return the 4 core radiator I bought which didn't fit with the march pulleys. Electric fan interference. Shipping it back and taking my time ordering a new one. I think 3 core would be fine for my 360 and im not opposed to running a factory blade fan if I have to.
Last up for the rear is hooking up the brake line to the front to rear hard line at the stock location. Then fill, bleed, and test.
Just got my torque converter bolts and new 20:1 gearbox. Once the gearbox is back on i'll yank the engine off the mount and start mating it to the 727 for install. Exciting times!
Had to return the 4 core radiator I bought which didn't fit with the march pulleys. Electric fan interference. Shipping it back and taking my time ordering a new one. I think 3 core would be fine for my 360 and im not opposed to running a factory blade fan if I have to.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
looking good!
i'm currently in the same boat with the MBM kit on the back of my 65 dart. it's like trying to thread a string up a wild cat's *** in a phone booth. everything's fightin' ya and there ain't no room to work!
just a note: when you get the car back on the ground, check that brake hose and make sure that it's not rubbing on shock body when the suspension is active.
i'm currently in the same boat with the MBM kit on the back of my 65 dart. it's like trying to thread a string up a wild cat's *** in a phone booth. everything's fightin' ya and there ain't no room to work!
just a note: when you get the car back on the ground, check that brake hose and make sure that it's not rubbing on shock body when the suspension is active.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Also gettin ready to weld the swiss cheese in the engine bay together. Any of you good welders out there have a suggestion for amperage settings on a mig to do stuff this thin? I burned through a bit earlier. Watched a few vids that say to go in short bursts and let the metal fall into the gap but its tough
mygasser
Well-Known Member
get a lump of copper behind the holes in turn. it stops you blowing through and it won't 'weld' to the steel.
neil.
neil.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Does taping a penny to the back of the hole count? Lol
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Swapped in the new steering gear. Waiting on a bearing for the steering column then itll get a fresh set of seals on. Also putting the engine on the floor to hook up the converter trans and lines.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
All right today I got a few updates. Put a new filter on the 727 and new gasket on the pan.
Following the instructions I mounted my flex plate to the motor as shown here but when I go to look at the torque converter there’s quite a gap. Is this normal? I assume if I start tightening the bolts down it’s gonna pull the torque converter toward the engine. Maybe that’s OK and that’s probably the way it’s supposed to be? I don’t know.
Following the instructions I mounted my flex plate to the motor as shown here but when I go to look at the torque converter there’s quite a gap. Is this normal? I assume if I start tightening the bolts down it’s gonna pull the torque converter toward the engine. Maybe that’s OK and that’s probably the way it’s supposed to be? I don’t know.
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72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Bolted it up. It's ready to go in. Got the shift mechanisms installed. Starter installed. kickdown Lokar installed on the trans side.
Wrestling with my steering coupler seal clamp still but once that's done I'll toss the steering column back in and assemble the column shifter linkages in prep for the drivetrain to drop in.
Any last minute checks I should be thinking of before the trans and engine go in? I always get paranoid i'll forget something that is 10X easier to do on the motor/trans while it's out of the car lol
Wrestling with my steering coupler seal clamp still but once that's done I'll toss the steering column back in and assemble the column shifter linkages in prep for the drivetrain to drop in.
Any last minute checks I should be thinking of before the trans and engine go in? I always get paranoid i'll forget something that is 10X easier to do on the motor/trans while it's out of the car lol
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
anything in the engine bay that needs detailing/adjustment or attention: brake lines, electrical, steering box or suspension.
beyond that, let 'er rip!
I would prime the engine.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Definitely! got my oil prime shaft ready to go, but i'll do that once it's time to fire it up. Counterclockwise to pump correct?
New electrical engine harness is on it's way. Keeping the existing forward lamp harness and plan on rebuilding that one later, but wanted a fresh harness to connect all the new stuff up together.
Clockwise, and there is not alot of room, with the engine in the car.
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Anyone know if the kickdown lever requires a return spring? Ive looked high and low on Lokars site to find an answer. Or is there pressure internally that returns the lever?
72smallairparticler
Well-Known Member
Test fit success. Shes in
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
i've not seen a return spring at that location before.
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