72 duster resto

-
rich_mc said:
Yep- this was my first time ever driving a manual steering car... Not bad once used to it!
Click to expand...
I have always preferred the road fell of manual box. MS is good in a small block, but yes it can be tough with a big block car. I have had many dozens of BB B bodies, 99% were manual and sticks. I loved them.

Today, so many of the younger gen can not drive a stick, must has PS and AC!!! Go figure!!!!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
I have always preferred the road fell of manual box. MS is good in a small block, but yes it can be tough with a big block car. I have had many dozens of BB B bodies, 99% were manual and sticks. I loved them.

Today, so many of the younger gen can not drive a stick, must has PS and AC!!! Go figure!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Mine's a fancy slant and automatic... Wish it were stick... maybe someday...

Not gonna lie- AC would be nice! Been kicking around the idea of this electric system- I do have enough alternator to power it... https://qualyair.us/products/new-a-c-universal-kit-underdash-electric-compressor-air-conditioner-12v

@72smallairparticler - Sorry for polluting your thread, but I always enjoy having some conversations in them.
 
Fire away! That's a cool AC system too. My Duster had AC on the slant that I pulled out so I have all the underdash components there. This might fit the ticket down the road. The price is good too
 
Retrofitting my parking brake cables to work with the 8.8. I know there are others who've just cut the stock brake cable shroud to get access to the cable wire itself and then built loops to grab the actuator on the back of the brake housing. I ended up taking a different approach. Grabbed a set of 2005 grand cherokee brake cables that I picked up for $26. Theyre about 18" longer than stock so I cut them down. The axle ends fit the housings nicely clipping into the factory ford 8.8 parking brake loop and the cables have a rectangular slot that fits the actuator with a little persuasion.

On the other side where I cut the housing I was able to route that through the factory hole under the car where the stock ones mount with the clip. From here you basically have to make a choice of how you want to connect both the stock exposed cabling system and the exposed portion of the new cable. I wasn't aware of any other method of building my own "Ball" at the end of my freshly cut cable that might fit into the factory cable to cable link. I dont know the term for it either if there is one lol.

For right now I have this clamp placed over both cables, but still looking for a better more permanent solution before I start adjusting the cable tensions. If I end up staying with this, i'll add a few more just for extra strength and to tidy it up.

Also grabbed a good set of new hardware to get my rear shocks mounted to the new shock plates and bought some weld tabs for mounting the soft brake lines to the housing in a manner that will allow me to bolt them on in correct position. After that's sorted, the rear is done til the engine / trans go in.

Screenshot 2024-11-25 at 11.36.40 AM.png


Screenshot 2024-11-25 at 11.41.41 AM.png


Screenshot 2024-11-25 at 11.41.27 AM.png


Screenshot 2024-11-25 at 11.51.40 AM.png
 
I used a thing called a "nicopress sleeve" for that wire end application. Learned about them in some past general aviation experience. Bought the special pliers and used them a whopping once! Lol
 
rich_mc said:
I used a thing called a "nicopress sleeve" for that wire end application. Learned about them in some past general aviation experience. Bought the special pliers and used them a whopping once! Lol
Click to expand...
You should rent those out and recoup your costs lol. I'm sure it's a massive market!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top