Do you think I should pull it back apart to see if the seal is twisted up or should I just air check it? When it was going in it’s was getting hung up and I had to force it, on three occasions to get it to go all the way down.
727 Time to rebuild
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CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
I would take it back apart cuz it will air test fine with a lot of pressure, then fail when the fluid warms up and thins down. Never force it.
Thanks a lot, just got done with checking it and it was fine inspected both seals, it went together a lot smoother the second time around.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
The peace of mind is worth it.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Full pressure at wot is right. That plastic spacer gets fried when the forward clutch burns out.
I got a few parts from CRT today. I can honestly say that John and Elaine where a pleasure to do business with. They accepted a PayPal transaction, even though it’s not listed on their web page. They also threw in a few tootsie rolls in the box. The catalog they sent is well detailed and has a nice dedication to his late mom and dad. I picked up a 4 bolt sprag and a couple bushings. I’ll be ordering a billet rear servo from him next and other small parts necessary to complete my build.
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So far I got all my sub assembly’s together. I used a metal spacer instead of those cheap plastic ones.
Bringing back memories!
Jeff
Jeff
Instead of using the TF2 orfice plug. I tapped and used a set screw that I drilled .140” or 9/32”. That way if necessary I can make adjustments later on if necessary.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Is that .080 on the forward clutch with wet frictions? Maybe apply the clutch with air then measure it after that.
No sorry .030 on the forward clutch.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
See if that measures .050 after pressure is applied and released.
I’ll have to recheck that thanks. Today I got the CRT bolt in sprag in, nothing special about it, but I’m happy with the oil mod hole drilled with the 3/32nd bit. Came out right next to roller retainer tang.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Your bushing looks fine to me. As long as you don't cover up the air passages you haven't went too far
I appreciate all the input. I’ve been sidetrack with remolding a bathroom. But managed to do a little more. Drilled and tapped the orfice plug to .140. Took apart the governor cleaned and reassembled. Also the front servo is in all back together. IM needing to order a billet one piece rear servo from cope and still wondering if I should do the blocker rod on the accumulator. Or leave it stock with just the outer spring?
I was attempting to check my front clutch with air only 38lbs and I believe I failed at assembly. It’s blowing air out by the bushing. Which I have to assume is the inner seal not functioning properly. Must have rolled/or pinched it. It pushed out the assembly grease in the video by the bushing. Dang it! at least I caught it prior to fully assembly.
Everything else was going well, the gear train end play was at .012”
I must be just paranoid, I pulled the clutches/piston and the seals are perfect.
.037” after air testing
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
By the look of it the seals were functioning properly since it pushed the piston out good with low air pressure. Probably leaking past the reaction shaft sealing rings. Just looked back and saw where you said the drum had some wear there. I can't tell much in the picture but it might be bad enough to cause a problem
Thanks I got it 90% back together, I will have to see what happens when it’s back in the car. Final end play is at .042” just have the accumulator, rear servo, and valve body left.
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CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Did he put a scored drum back in there?
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