CFHJ, I did not use the scored drum, I used the better one I had from my other trans. It was in great shape. New sealing rings on the pump and offset the gap as well.
727 Time to rebuild
- Thread starter 67/6barracuda
- Start date
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CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Oh l didn't see that in the thread. I see a lot of recommendations to use scored drums or to machine them, but l'll chitcan any drum with the slightest scoring even in my $400 rebuilds.
I agree, I tore one core transmission down and all the hard parts seemed to have issues. So I took a hiatus to remove another transmission and rebuild it. The one I'm working on now had relatively low mileage (88K) just needed clutches but it is now getting the $400 dollar rebuild. I should be back on track.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Just reading through and noticed your post and thought I'd comment. I haven't had actually had any come out at .018" but I have had one I built for a buddies 11.0 car that came out at .022" and he ran the crap out of it and never had a problem. That's not including the output shaft end play so that adds some clearance. I noticed in Tom Hand's book he recently wrote that Rick Allison at A&A Trans specified .010-.020"
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
When dealing with numbers that tight; like .010; I'd be cautious. If it's .010 at 70F; there won't be any clearance at -10F. I figure the case expands a minimum of .010 with a 75F change. Any metallurgists on board? I think we're considering aluminum fluctuation over a 10" span. I know aluminum molds have to be .125 oversize for every 12" to compensate for shrinkage from 1300F to 100F.
MrJLR, CudaFactHackJob, Fishy68, Cope, and CRT thank you all for the help. I got it all back together, sitting on the bench waiting for me to do a little wire brushing and spraying a little aluminum color on it to fresh it up. Finally end play .042” I set the front band to 72inlbs backed off 2.25 turns w/3.8 kick down lever, rear was set at 72inlbs backed off 2 turns. I put in a cope billet rear servo as well. Added the mopar performance deep oil pan. Thinking of using the mopar ATF+4, But open to suggestions seems like a lot still use type F.
Thats awesome!!!
Very good feeling doing it yourself too!
A lot cheaper too!
That final paint job is a great feeling too!
Jeff
Very good feeling doing it yourself too!
A lot cheaper too!
That final paint job is a great feeling too!
Jeff
Final paint is done. Ready to go back in.
Nice!!!
I got the trans bolted in today. I made a trans jack from my old 727 pan bolted it to the jack and was getting after it. Just have driveshaft, linkage, and fill with mopar ATF+4.
Slick!
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
I heard someplace, don't remember where right now, that they sell jacks intended for the sole purpose of installing automatic transmissions... Me; I use a giant floor jack sticking out front under the bumper, so it goes forward as it goes up. That gizmo there looks like you might end up picking slivers outta your forearms..
So how did it turn out?!!!
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for checking in Jeff, It’s almost ready but haven’t started it yet. Need to put my exhaust back on. Hook the starter up, put my steering column back in after rebuilding that. Plus, life getting keeps getting in the way of course.
I hear ya.....I been working 60+ hours a week.... doesnt leave a lot of time for fun!
Keep us posted!
Jeff
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