727 trans issue

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alyak

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I have a mild 360 with a 727 trans in my 75 dart that I recently finished putting together. Everything was going fine until the transmission overheated in traffic. It overheated so bad that I could smell burnt fluid from inside the car. Now it goes in drive but won’t shift. I am not sure which gear it is stuck in, feels like second to me. I drained the fluid and it was brown and had some metal in it, but it didn’t seem excessive to me. I am wondering what I can do to figure out what failed. What pressure should I be reading on a test gauge and where should I plug the gauge into? Should I just go with a full rebuild or are there some other things I could try?
 
alyak said:
I have a mild 360 with a 727 trans in my 75 dart that I recently finished putting together. Everything was going fine until the transmission overheated in traffic. It overheated so bad that I could smell burnt fluid from inside the car. Now it goes in drive but won’t shift. I am not sure which gear it is stuck in, feels like second to me. I drained the fluid and it was brown and had some metal in it, but it didn’t seem excessive to me. I am wondering what I can do to figure out what failed. What pressure should I be reading on a test gauge and where should I plug the gauge into? Should I just go with a full rebuild or are there some other things I could try?
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Sounds like you have some fried clutches at the very least.
Over heating at a stop is usually converter related.
What is your idle rpm?
What converter do you have?
 
Pull it and go through it. Get the torque converter rebuilt, now would be the time to change the stall to match your engine and rear gear. Flush the cooler lines and send the radiator out. The cooler will be plugged with all of the burnt clutch fibers. I'd add an extra cooler as well. There is no band aid if it's cooked.
 
TrailBeast said:
Sounds like you have some fried clutches at the very least.
Over heating at a stop is usually converter related.
What is your idle rpm?
What converter do you have?
Click to expand...
I’m not sure the converter, it looks like a stock one but it had been welded at the snout and along the edge, so it was opened up some point. My idle rpm is 1k.
 
Hellrats said:
Pull it and go through it. Get the torque converter rebuilt, now would be the time to change the stall to match your engine and rear gear. Flush the cooler lines and send the radiator out. The cooler will be plugged with all of the burnt clutch fibers. I'd add an extra cooler as well. There is no band aid if it's cooked.
Click to expand...
I’ll check the cooler lines and cooler to see if I have any material in there.
 
alyak said:
I have a mild 360 with a 727 trans in my 75 dart that I recently finished putting together. Everything was going fine until the transmission overheated in traffic. It overheated so bad that I could smell burnt fluid from inside the car. Now it goes in drive but won’t shift. I am not sure which gear it is stuck in, feels like second to me. I drained the fluid and it was brown and had some metal in it, but it didn’t seem excessive to me. I am wondering what I can do to figure out what failed. What pressure should I be reading on a test gauge and where should I plug the gauge into? Should I just go with a full rebuild or are there some other things I could try?
Click to expand...
Is your kickdown adjusted properly? What are your normal driving shift points?
 
alyak said:
It overheated so bad that I could smell burnt fluid from inside the car.
Click to expand...
There is no way you SEE inside the cooler. Even if it would flow fluid would you really want to trust it? The governor valves are stuck because of all the clutch parts going through the cooling lines. Sorry but if it's cooked... it's cooked. I'm not trying to be a dick I've worked on transmission for over 30 years. Pull it and do it right. Add a cooler and be happy you did.
 
There’s definitely clutch material in tr
Hellrats said:
There is no way you SEE inside the cooler. Even if it would flow fluid would you really want to trust it? The governor valves are stuck because of all the clutch parts going through the cooling lines. Sorry but if it's cooked... it's cooked. I'm not trying to be a dick I've worked on transmission for over 30 years. Pull it and do it right. Add a cooler and be happy you did.
Click to expand...
i guess the point of this post was lost in translation. I am not trying to do it wrong, what I am asking for is first steps to figure out the problem so I don’t go replacing stuff I don’t need.
 
alyak said:
There’s definitely clutch material in tr

i guess the point of this post was lost in translation. I am not trying to do it wrong, what I am asking for is first steps to figure out the problem so I don’t go replacing stuff I don’t need.
Click to expand...

A 1k idle will generate a lot of heat via the converter.
Bumping it into neutral instead of idling in gear will keep it cooler.
But what’s done is done at this point.
 
TrailBeast said:
A 1k idle will generate a lot of heat via the converter.
Bumping it into neutral instead of idling in gear will keep it cooler.
But what’s done is done at this point.
Click to expand...
Ohhhh, good to know. Thank you. I am going to get a trans cooler for it either way. The torque converter is a 2500 stall I just learned.
 
Since the transmission case isn't made of glass, you cannot see through it to see what the "next steps" are. You have to pull it out and tear it down and find what went wrong as has been mentioned at least three times now.
 
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