73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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Right now I used the screws with my dash but I'm thinking of using some liquid metal to cover then and smooth it all out for powdercoating. But those black screws look great.

Riddler
 
The nice thing is that the "Floating" nut will move around inside it's cage and give you some free play if your holes don't perfectly line up. The two non threaded holes are for rivets that hold them to the panel you want to attach the nut plate to.


cool thx
 
Right now I used the screws with my dash but I'm thinking of using some liquid metal to cover then and smooth it all out for powdercoating. But those black screws look great.

Riddler

I thought about assembling the gauge plate to the dash frame and then painting/Clear Coating everything once bolted together but If I ever needed to remove the gauge face once the car is assembled it would make life alot tougher and the dash would look like crap afterwards. With this stand I shouldn't need to ever do that but I hate to commit to that.
 
The nice thing is that the "Floating" nut will move around inside it's cage and give you some free play if your holes don't perfectly line up. The two non threaded holes are for rivets that hold them to the panel you want to attach the nut plate to.


Are you discussing attaching the gauge cluster assy to the dash frame?

how are you securing the dash frame to the car? I was considering different options to eliminate the need to remove the windshield to get to the bolts
 
Today I got the vin tag restored and reinstalled, mounted the Billet Push buttons controls, installed the GloveBox liner, installed the defroster Ducts and then had a problem with the Billet Heater Duct Rings ....they a little to thick and the dash pad wont fit flush against the dash frame, So I'll mill off some material and should be back in business. I also got the Turn signal and High Beam L.E.D indicators mounted. I also made and mocked up the cylinder head "Filler" panel to keep everything flush and eliminate overhang.
 

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Are you discussing attaching the gauge cluster assy to the dash frame?

how are you securing the dash frame to the car? I was considering different options to eliminate the need to remove the windshield to get to the bolts

I'm just going to bolt it in the conventional "Factory" way.
 
Ahhhhhhhhh......

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Why yes you can. lol
And very well I might add.

I appreciate the comment and compliment...The problem is I've got so many other things I'm modifying that I have to draw the line since I would like to get this car on the road eventually. Heres another New project I will start this weekend...I'm going to Mill off the fins and logo and then polish them .....I might have a few more mod's for them also.
 

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I kind of like them the way they are.

OMG! What am I saying?

I almost forgot whom I was referring to!
 
Wow....
I luv to see the completion of your ideas....so many start... then never finish.

I'm kinda thinking your paint guy is doing you a favor...giving you the necessary time to complete all the sub assemblies
 
I couldn't agree more, Realistically I'm figuring it will be December before I see the car....by that time I should have all the sub-Assemblies painted and looking good. I did manage to start milling off the valve cover logo and ribs, They look a little worse that before I started but if they turn out like the vision I have for them in my head they will definatley be unique and specific for the Build....
 

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I made a bracket to attach the AutoMeter GPS Speedometer Interface to the dash frame in an out of the way spot but since I need access to the Calibration Button I couldn't bury it totally out of the way, so I decided behind the glove box would be a good place. This thing is really cool, It replaces the cable and solves the common problems that throw off your speedometer like different tire size or gear ratio. I mounted the magnetic sensor between the vent rings (which fit now that they were cut down a little).
I remade the passenger Head filler piece and will mount it with 2 bolts instead of three as originally thought, I also mocked up the valve covers and added a metal TWISTER stencil to get a feel of how the Valve covers will look once complete. I will be cutting the TWISTER into the valve covers and then polishing the crap out them before they get Clear Anodized. I also really like the last picture that shows how low the EFI Throttle bodies will sit in relationship to the Valve cover....Nice and low looking.
 

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Very nice.
On the valve covers, my thought would be either mill off the fins on the ends, or incorporate something that extends them onto the top surface somehow.
 
Very nice.
On the valve covers, my thought would be either mill off the fins on the ends, or incorporate something that extends them onto the top surface somehow.

There are not finished yet...I have to hand sand the fins on the ends off totally just haven't got that far yet...maybe tomorrow. They will look like the ones in the picture only with the TWISTER emblem cut in.
 

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They look F'n great!

Thanks Mark,
I get a little nervous cutting and experimenting on a set of $300.00 valve covers, if I F' up It's a costly mistake but if its something I created from scratch and F' up I can just start over, I don't think the Vendor will take them back in there current condition. I got news over the weekend that my converted Mod Man intake will be delivered Friday Aug 9th So I wont see it before the Nats for Mock up.
 
There are not finished yet...I have to hand sand the fins on the ends off totally just haven't got that far yet...maybe tomorrow. They will look like the ones in the picture only with the TWISTER emblem cut in.

Shoulda known :)
 
Shoulda known :)

Hopefully this will make things Chrystal clear....After getting them this far I don't think I will cut the word TWISTER into the Valve covers, If I decide I want a some more character to the engine compartment I can always
make them out of Vinyl. The next time you see these they will be so shiny you'll need your sunglasses to look at them.
 

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