73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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I have ridden in that car (in anger - junior division) and I will
tell you to bring extra underwear.

Ross, I hope you dont mind this post........ it didnt work out the way I wanted. I was holding my phone and steering wheel in my left hand and my right hand on the shifter and put my foot into it!

notice the 6500 RPM shift light.... *****'n for sure..

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D260AgJifvo&feature=youtu.be[/ame]
 
All that money in that car and no phone holder or go pro, or something. lol
 
Ross, I hope you dont mind this post........ it didnt work out the way I wanted. I was holding my phone and steering wheel in my left hand and my right hand on the shifter and put my foot into it!

notice the 6500 RPM shift light.... *****'n for sure..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D260AgJifvo&feature=youtu.be

I don't mind at all.....Anybody going to Norwalk next weekend ? If so, what day(s). My wife has her Class reunion that Saturday so I might be a no show....especially since my Hemi Denny K frame won't be ready I'm now weighing the pro's and cons of going. Dad wants to go and bring the Dart of course.
 
I don't mind at all.....Anybody going to Norwalk next weekend ? If so, what day(s). My wife has her Class reunion that Saturday so I might be a no show....especially since my Hemi Denny K frame won't be ready I'm now weighing the pro's and cons of going. Dad wants to go and bring the Dart of course.

I will be there...but no silver Duster.....just the mule w/ installed K-frame
 
I don't mind at all.....Anybody going to Norwalk next weekend ? If so, what day(s). My wife has her Class reunion that Saturday so I might be a no show....especially since my Hemi Denny K frame won't be ready I'm now weighing the pro's and cons of going. Dad wants to go and bring the Dart of course.

Tell Dave to drive it, no TRAILER!
 
I spent the day painting the Sharktooth turn signal lens and headlight bezels Jet black and then cleared them with Ultra Cool Soft touch Clear by ALSA..then since watching paint dry is boring I decided to start working on the FAST EFI wiring harness....after laying it all out I hate to say this but it looks pretty Damn easy although I am going to modify the lenght of some of the injector harness wires for a cleaner look. Luckily the ModMan intake has a 1" opening (like an Edelbrock Air Gap) so I can hide most of the forward engine wiring under it. I also made a couple aluminum plugs to block off the both of the IAC motor holes on the front Throttle body since the Fast system only uses one throttle body to control the engine management...the second throttle body is mainly there just for the cool factor.
 

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What no pictures of the paint drying?

LOL

Yeah WTF? Paint drying pics needed!

Riddler

When I Re-do the headlight bezels (since they didn't turn out the way I wanted) I'll take some pics. I'll say its a time lapse video since there won't be much difference from start to finish except maybe a bird flying by now and then.
 
Well it's been 4 weeks and my Valve covers are en-route back from getting polished but the Company Mirror Finish Polishing sent me some Pics that I thought I would share...the first 2 are the way they recieved them from me and the others are whats getting shipped back to me via Fed Ex. Now it looks like I have to send the Indy Mod Man intake but I want to set them on the motor before I make that decision final. I still am going to have the valve covers clear Anodized so I wont have to keep polishing them, the trade off will be they will change a shade or two but I'm told there still look very shiny.
 

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Well it's been 4 weeks and my Valve covers are en-route back from getting polished but the Company Mirror Finish Polishing sent me some Pics that I thought I would share...the first 2 are the way they recieved them from me and the others are whats getting shipped back to me via Fed Ex. Now it looks like I have to send the Indy Mod Man intake but I want to set them on the motor before I make that decision final. I still am going to have the valve covers clear Anodized so I wont have to keep polishing them, the trade off will be they will change a shade or two but I'm told there still look very shiny.

Swing, swing! Boy. those look fantastic!
 
Yea, I know...... but if everybody made there parts the way I want them to be made for my build I wouldn't have to modify it. So, it's there fault.... right?
We love seeing it all done. Don't ever stop creating. You're an inspiration to us all.

OMG! What beautiful valve covers!
 
Are those valve covers cast aluminium?

The reason I ask is that if they are cast aluminium with a high silicon alloy the chances of them anodizing well are not very good.

Aluminium comes in differing alloys depending upon the purpose. Some alloys are designed for high strength and or machinability, while others are designed for corrosion resistance. Generally speaking alloys used for castings have a high silicon content. The silicon content allows the aluminum to flow better. The downside of a high silicon alloy is that it tends to be very porous. This porosity holds onto the sulfuric acid used in the anodizing process, unfortunately during the sealing process the sulfuric acid can leach streaking the surface and marring the finish.

All that being said, I've seen beautifully polished pieces that after anodizing looked horrible, I've also seen beautifully polished parts that came out beautiful. Your mileage may vary, I wish you luck.

If you have them anodized and they don't come out well, strip the anodize off, repolish and then clear coat them with a clear lacquer. The lacquer will eventually yellow, but I've found that it holds up pretty well.

Here's a couple of articles that can help you make an informed decision.

http://www.anodizing.org/Publications/bulletin_4.html

http://www.anodizing.org/FAQ/faq_cont2.html

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Are those valve covers cast aluminium?

The reason I ask is that if they are cast aluminium with a high silicon alloy the chances of them anodizing well are not very good.

Aluminium comes in differing alloys depending upon the purpose. Some alloys are designed for high strength and or machinability, while others are designed for corrosion resistance. Generally speaking alloys used for castings have a high silicon content. The silicon content allows the aluminum to flow better. The downside of a high silicon alloy is that it tends to be very porous. This porosity holds onto the sulfuric acid used in the anodizing process, unfortunately during the sealing process the sulfuric acid can leach streaking the surface and marring the finish.

All that being said, I've seen beautifully polished pieces that after anodizing looked horrible, I've also seen beautifully polished parts that came out beautiful. Your mileage may vary, I wish you luck.

If you have them anodized and they don't come out well, strip the anodize off, repolish and then clear coat them with a clear lacquer. The lacquer will eventually yellow, but I've found that it holds up pretty well.

Here's a couple of articles that can help you make an informed decision.

http://www.anodizing.org/Publications/bulletin_4.html

http://www.anodizing.org/FAQ/faq_cont2.html

Regards,

Joe Dokes

Thanks Joe,
It looks like I will have several questions for the local Anodizing company before I let him loose on these Bad Boys...When I took the Timing/motor mount piece to him he asked me if it was Cast or billet... Tony at Mirror finishing polishing has a oxidation minimizing coating option service for $23.00 per cover ..maybe I should have gone that route.
 
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