73 Duster build named Fred

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IIRC going back to HIS thoughts, he was going to spray it at some point. I think he even has a system for it. That will make the converter 'better' to the application in itself. Changing cams and their respective hardware is pricy in a few ways because the cam profile it'll like is probably going to 'tax' the rockers and pushrods....etc This is a 59* small block. I just mention it all for review to benefit what is practical for the owner given a new perspective.


It’s not his converter. He is getting his converter stall raised to 5800-6000. Then bang 9 seconds
 
Hey Bill, have you tried leaving from idle and letting the engine hit the converter?
 
Hey Bill, have you tried leaving from idle and letting the engine hit the converter?
Yes, lower flash rpm and slower times. Seemed to like it more the higher I went. I’m going to try a 4000 chip next time out. Really need to get the right converter in the car but until then, I’ll do whatever it takes to make it run a number
 
It’s not his converter. He is getting his converter stall raised to 5800-6000. Then bang 9 seconds
OK I didn't realize that. Yes, if he's gotta get his tuned-up, he should aim higher in stall. I'm not sure that'll get him into the 9's but I'd guess the weight being just over 2800? so if there's 575HP somewhere it can get there. If over 2900 then he might need more parts.
 
OK I didn't realize that. Yes, if he's gotta get his tuned-up, he should aim higher in stall. I'm not sure that'll get him into the 9's but I'd guess the weight being just over 2800? so if there's 575HP somewhere it can get there. If over 2900 then he might need more parts.
Loaner converter flashed at 5500 and validated my theory. It has also helped me to decide to go with around 6000-6200 on my re-stall.

The goal all along was to get this combo into the low 10's.... 10.20's to be exact. Although I don't have the timeslip yet, I think I am already there. Getting the right converter in the car, getting the tuneup just right and maybe even taking some weight out of the car should help get it into the 10.0's

Only reason I bought the nitrous setup was because it was only $400 and I only planned to use it if my car wasn't close to my goals. As soon as I realized I was there and got an offer for $600 on the kit, I sold it.

9's would be great but I don't expect to get there this season. If I get lucky and do click off a 9, I'll have to make changes or get kicked out. lol
 
OK I didn't realize that. Yes, if he's gotta get his tuned-up, he should aim higher in stall. I'm not sure that'll get him into the 9's but I'd guess the weight being just over 2800? so if there's 575HP somewhere it can get there. If over 2900 then he might need more parts.


It’s well over 2900. Lol
 
The car weighs 3146 with me and 5 gallons of fuel.

The car is heavy, has a small cam, street heads, full exhaust with mufflers and tailpipes out the back, converter that doesn't have enough stall, full interior less carpets and door panels (although I think the dynamat I added to the floors weigh more than carpets and door panels....lol). I think low 10's with my combo is quicker than most would expect.
 
The car weighs 3146 with me and 5 gallons of fuel.

The car is heavy, has a small cam, street heads, full exhaust with mufflers and tailpipes out the back, converter that doesn't have enough stall, full interior less carpets and door panels (although I think the dynamat I added to the floors weigh more than carpets and door panels....lol). I think low 10's with my combo is quicker than most would expect.
Uh yeah lol
 
Loaner converter flashed at 5500 and validated my theory. It has also helped me to decide to go with around 6000-6200 on my re-stall.

The goal all along was to get this combo into the low 10's.... 10.20's to be exact. Although I don't have the timeslip yet, I think I am already there. Getting the right converter in the car, getting the tuneup just right and maybe even taking some weight out of the car should help get it into the 10.0's

Only reason I bought the nitrous setup was because it was only $400 and I only planned to use it if my car wasn't close to my goals. As soon as I realized I was there and got an offer for $600 on the kit, I sold it.

9's would be great but I don't expect to get there this season. If I get lucky and do click off a 9, I'll have to make changes or get kicked out. lol
This is all good stuff. Forgive that I don't keep tabs on the combo but offer suggestions. In my mind, the parts combo I thought you had were doing well making 575 with the small cam. In retrospect a high compression, ported aftermarket head 4xx" with a cam better than a flat tappet should make more so, it's doing good! Did you have the intake ported? I think it's still using a 4150 carb?
 
This is all good stuff. Forgive that I don't keep tabs on the combo but offer suggestions. In my mind, the parts combo I thought you had were doing well making 575 with the small cam. In retrospect a high compression, ported aftermarket head 4xx" with a cam better than a flat tappet should make more so, it's doing good! Did you have the intake ported? I think it's still using a 4150 carb?
Thank you. Yes, the TF intake was port matched and I'm still running the 850 Thumper carb.
 
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I'm half tempted to slide this cam in my smog motor.... :steering:

MECHANICAL ROLLER-Good super gas or fast bracket cam, 12:1 compression with 5500+ stall.
Basic Operating RPM Range:
4,800-7,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
275 int./284 exh.
Advertised Duration:
308 int./317 exh.
Valve Lift with 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.658 int./0.661 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
108

Thoughts?
 
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I'm half tempted to slide this cam in my smog motor.... :steering:

MECHANICAL ROLLER-Good super gas or fast bracket cam, 12:1 compression with 5500+ stall.
Basic Operating RPM Range:
4,800-7,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
275 int./284 exh.
Advertised Duration:
308 int./317 exh.
Valve Lift with 1.5:1 Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.658 int./0.661 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
108

Thoughts?


I’m not against it, but I think let’s get the converter 100% sorted out first then visit this other cam.
 
Hmm.... maybe this one.

Basic Operating RPM Range:
4,500-7,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
269 int./276 exh.
Advertised Duration:
302 int./309 exh.
Valve Lift with 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.654 int./0.655 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
106
 
Hmm.... maybe this one.

Basic Operating RPM Range:
4,500-7,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
269 int./276 exh.
Advertised Duration:
302 int./309 exh.
Valve Lift with 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.654 int./0.655 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
106

Tighter lobe sep, and little less duration than the previous one you posted, should be torquey. And probably an upgrade from your current one. Time will tell.
 
Nice, your peak torque will probably move up to
Hmm.... maybe this one.

Basic Operating RPM Range:
4,500-7,500
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
269 int./276 exh.
Advertised Duration:
302 int./309 exh.
Valve Lift with 1.5 Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.654 int./0.655 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
106
I like the 1st one you put up.
You are at 254 right now?
This one is on the verge...if you can wait until tonight after I get off work I can do some math and tell you your optimal duration.
I assume that this cam will raise peak torque up about 800 rpm.
 
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I showed you the cam to run. If you want a little more lift I’m sure Jim could do that too. I’d like to go .720 or better next time.
 
Tighter lobe sep, and little less duration than the previous one you posted, should be torquey. And probably an upgrade from your current one. Time will tell.
Just my opinion but I think the first one has too much duration.

Both of these are off the shelf and I am 99.9% certain I will go with a custom grind again. I just hate the wait.... lol
 
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