**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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zhandfull said:
Looks good! What rear springs the -1" mono leaf?
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Yes. The front is up in the highest hole in the relocation boxes. I think after a couple hits it will come down a bit more..... Maybe


451Cuda.... Damn that thing is green.
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Yes it is. Think its is called Dark Forrest Green Metallic? There is a lot of black in it.

younggun2.0.... if you do the quick silver you should build a bad *** shift arm for it. its pretty easy especially for a guy like you that has all the fab skills.
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Yeah you need to ship me the nice one you built and build a different one for yours! Lol

68GTconvert.... Nice. Looks great.
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Thanks. I hope its not too much longer. I miss my Friday night along with the Saturday & Sunday afternoon victim hunting. :burnout:
 
Mad Dart said:
Thought I would mention that I had a hard time with the biscuit mounts. The New Extreme Energy bushings gave me a really good fight. The engine finally sat all the way down after about 3 hours. I was frustrated with it so I just skipped that part and kept going. They finally gave and dropped into place...... Man now I know if this engine ever comes out I will open up the mounts at the K Frame with a BFH a bit so it goes in easy! :banghead:
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HAHA! Found it!
 
As I have posted I am using a Walbro GSL-392 Fuel pump on my Carb system. I went to start the car today and the fuel pressure spiked to 9.5Psi and it has spiked before on cold starts to around 9Psi and then drop to around 6 when it warmed up. So I started researching a bit and I believe my return line may be too big. I am using 3/8 feed and a 3/8 return or you can call it -8 on both. I came up with an idea to restrict the return by screwing a tapered pipe plug with an allen head into the return fitting and I drilled it out with a #21 drill bit. After the install the fuel pressure is rock steady at 7PSI or wherever I want to set it at. This fitting replaced the fitting on the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It took me all of about 15 minutes to do this.

I also am adding 4 breathers to the MP Valve covers. These will be TIG Welded over the factory breather locations.

Still waiting for the AN Parts to get here to finish up the HIT.


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Well I stand corrected…… I am still having Fuel Pressure problems. Member UOP is running a Walbro High Pressure fuel pump on his set up and was having similar issues as me. He said by running from the pump to the fuel rail and having the FP Regulator at the end of the rail he has whipped the gremlin. So I will be configuring mine like his. I have all the parts already on my bench to make this happen.

Here is a photo of his set up along with a link to the thread on the subject.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=252832

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I was going to say - you always want the return line larger than the feed side. Especially with a decent pump - the return can become the restriction.
 
The FP is dropping off when it gets hot. Starts out fine at around 8 psi cold to about 4 when it gets hot. The restrictor seemed to slow the process but maybe my mind is playing tricks on me. I have another non liquid filled gauge I'm going to try and do 1 change at a time until I fix it.
 
I prefer using dual feeds to the carb instead of the log/rails.. I have dual gsl 392 and have a -8 to each bowl. No issues with mile at 7psi. I also have 5/8 feeds and returns..
 
HOTMOPR said:
I prefer using dual feeds to the carb instead of the log/rails.. I have dual gsl 392 and have a -8 to each bowl. No issues with mile at 7psi. I also have 5/8 feeds and returns..
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What regulator? Is your gauge liquid filled? What's weird with mine is when I first installed it the FP was rock steady, over time it has got progressively worse. Gotta be something simple.

I am loosing my mind. I have 1/2" feed and 1/2" return lines. All -8 accept from the sump to inlet of the pump where it is -10 or 5/8.
 
I've been (or was I should say) using an Aeromotive pump and one of their bypass regulators. I also have a fuel log instead of 2 separate lines to feed the carb. No matter when it was, the pressure was locked at 8 psi where I set it and never moved whether it was first thing in the morning, hot after driving, under full throttle, etc. I had one single feed line to the pump (going with 2 now) and all line, feed and return, are -8. I don't think your feed or return lines are your problem. Gotta be either pump or regulator.
 
clinteg said:
I've been (or was I should say) using an Aeromotive pump and one of their bypass regulators. I also have a fuel log instead of 2 separate lines to feed the carb. No matter when it was, the pressure was locked at 8 psi where I set it and never moved whether it was first thing in the morning, hot after driving, under full throttle, etc. I had one single feed line to the pump (going with 2 now) and all line, feed and return, are -8. I don't think your feed or return lines are your problem. Gotta be either pump or regulator.
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Maybe it is just a bad gauge? That would be funny. I am going to swap out the Gauge this afternoon to a NON Oil filled one and see if it changes anything.

All parts are brand new so this is weird.

I really don't want a Fuel Pump that sounds like a 4 Stroke Chain Saw. This is mostly a street car. If need be I would rather just go back to a mechanical unit for noise sake.
 
Louis, You want to borrow that big autometer fuel pressure gauge?

I can send it to you along with that paperwork...

At least you could verify if your gauge is acting wacky.
 
crackedback said:
Louis, You want to borrow that big autometer fuel pressure gauge?

I can send it to you along with that paperwork...

At least you could verify if your gauge is acting wacky.
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Thanks for the offer!

I have an Autometer 2 5/8 Liquid filled gauge that I can plumb into it. It is the Gauge that I will be using for the NOS Fuel Pressure.

I am hoping that the gauge I have in there now is on Crack…. That would be a super easy fix.
 
NOS is all installed. Had a few issues with the rear needle and seat adjustment. The rear float bowl was playing with us today and the car was acting as if it had a vacuum leak. It would not idle so we cranked up the idle set screw to keep it running. Couldn't figure it out so off comes the carb to check and replace the gaskets and tighten up the base plate screws. All looked fine so it goes back together. I told Pete I believe the rear bowl is going dry so he hits the rear pump shot and it's it squirts fine. He kept saying that's not the problem...... It can't be.....I pull the rear site plug and shake the car , no fuel coming out look in with a light shake the car more can't see fuel through the site plug....hmmm so fire the fuel pump back on and reset the rear floats. It is really touchy for some reason. So fire the car back up and it is idling rock steady at 2200rpm, back off the idle set screw it is idling perfect at about 900-1000 rpm. Throttle response is crisp and clean again! Pete was tripping saying he has never seen a low float act like a Vacuum leak... Vacuum leak diagnosis was completely wrong but it sure acted just like one.

So the NOS is all installed and working. I armed the system with the bottle on and hit the purge to clear the line good. I then brought the rpm's up to 3k and smacked the buttun briefly a couple times. It instantly Rev's to over 5K with just a quick tap on the button. We started out with a 150 tune up, timing is all in at 34* and it's taking out 4* of timing on the hit. VP 110 is in the little cell and ready to go. We dd not have time to do any test hits. I may get out there tomorrow for a few. :burnout:
 
I'd take out more than 4*, I'd start at around 7-8. But, I'm always a little on the safe side to start.
 
Yeah I'll do that and creep up on it. I'll just pull the zero pill out in the second stage retard and drop in a 3*, that will make 7*. Do you think that compression comes into play when considering how much to retard timing?
 
Mad Dart said:
Yeah I'll do that and creep up on it. I'll just pull the zero pill out in the second stage retard and drop in a 3*, that will make 7*. Do you think that compression comes into play when considering how much to retard timing?
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I havent heard much in relationship to compression and timing with NOS. I ran a 200 shot in my 12.5-1 440 i ran 28 degrees with that set up.
 
HOTMOPR said:
I havent heard much in relationship to compression and timing with NOS. I ran a 200 shot in my 12.5-1 440 i ran 28 degrees with that set up.
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Mine is 9:1 Compression. Forged everything, H Beams, custom pistons with the Ring lan held down a bit further than normal and tool steel wrist pins, Heads are studded with Cometic Head Gaskets. If that means anything.

My main fuel system is 91 Pump and the secondary fuel system for the NOS is on VP 110.

The motor without the hit I would think makes over 500HP with the Solid Roller Cam. It seems a bit more powerful than my last stroker in my 70 Dart.

I did read a few things on the net that were saying you can get away with a more aggressive tune with lower compression and addition to that the motor would respond better to Bigger Hits than the same motor with a Higher Compression would. I guess I am about to find out.
 
Ya know, I learn so much from your threads by just keeping my mouth shut (mostly) and reading.
 
Ok messed around with the Scamp today. I finally figured out my FP Problem. The rear float was filled with fuel screwing everything up. I had another carb here that I just fully rebuilt with new everything so while I was waiting for the NEW Jet Extensions Floats & Needle and Seats to show up I just swapped out the front and rear bowls and added the Jet Extensions. When the new stuff gets here, I will just fix up the spare on the bench with the parts. I also switched out to a NON Liquid filled gauge. The Fuel Pressure is ROCK Stable at 6.25 PSI. I drove the car around for at least 1 1/2 Hours today checking the FP a few times and then again when I got back. Still Rock Steady at 6.25 PSI! Even with the engine at Operating temp. I finally got it whipped! I also took out the restrictor that I had put in the return line fitting before I started wrenching on it.

Ok so I am out and about went to the Gas station and filled up. So while I am there I figure shoot may as well turn on the bottle. I of course filled up the Lil Cell with VP 110 before I left…… Lol! I also put in another chip in the second retard so I am taking out a total of 7* of timing on the hit. So I am rolling in 2nd gear and I purge it good a few times, I am right at 3200 Rpm, I stand on it and hit the button at the same time going probably about 40 mph, The front end instantly topped out and just a bit later the Shift light comes on, I had it set at 6K then I grab 3rd. The car hauls *** without the juice and feels like it is going to take flight on it! It ran flawless, no hiccup, spit sputter or anything it was super clean. I am impressed is all I can say. I rolled out and did it again. Nothing like blowing the tires off in 3rd at 90 Mph!
Caltracs need some tuning cause the car goes left a bit. No worries just keep your foot to the floor and all will be OK! haaaaaa :burnout:

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