74 Dart 360 Sport

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Got some more tonight I highly recommend making spacers out of nylon for the mounting screws going into dash panel. While I'm installing this I had lost a connector in the dash panel could not see it. I look down on the column where the two wide connectors are. I see the black accessory wire completely out of the connector. Well God dang this explains the flipping dash lights not coming on and all else working. Oh well no turning back now not sure how I missed that but the speedometer new was the same cost my digital replacement solution and weighs less and I like the features it has.

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I had my new cluster working then for some unknown reason I lost my assessory voltage feed. This pissed me off today sigh I will take a look in a while key in back position no voltage was working both ways. Checked my ground bam no voltage there fuse is good no idea why so far. Didn't feel like messing with hope nothing else happened and it's something simple. The blinkers worked the voltage showed up and temperature. Worked in both key positions on and assessory mode as it should. I'm sure since I lost my trigger it's not turning on now.
 
I had my new cluster working then for some unknown reason I lost my assessory voltage feed. This pissed me off today sigh I will take a look in a while key in back position no voltage was working both ways. Checked my ground bam no voltage there fuse is good no idea why so far. Didn't feel like messing with hope nothing else happened and it's something simple. The blinkers worked the voltage showed up and temperature. Worked in both key positions on and assessory mode as it should. I'm sure since I lost my trigger it's not turning on now.
Nah it died I checked things 20 times will send it back for another.
 
Nah it died I checked things 20 times will send it back for another.
Which cluster did you buy and use ? I have heard of issues with some of the cheaper ones but no experience myself , I am going to try an use my original but if all else fails I was looking
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Which cluster did you buy and use ? I have heard of issues with some of the cheaper ones but no experience myself , I am going to try an use my original but if all else fails I was looking

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I got the intelitronix A body one. Like I said it worked it's all wired up right I need to ping Jpar make sure I didn't screw up in the bright circuit for the indicator. I had it correct I know I did I really checked lol alot. All my wiring and checked each one as I did it and wrapped it carefully.
 
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Ugh found it face palm stupid interlock on column I need to get that adjusted. If I push in park little bit it's fine and I also had a loose connection assessory black on column connector. Old wiring problems I need to correct this before I move forward. Anyone ever bypass the safety interlock as I'm done jerking with this thing I forget then I get sent down rabbit trail it's pissing me off.

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If you have photos of the column restored and INSTALLED I would like to see how these wire were ran. Mine was not done correctly and Im close to chasing all the bad things done down. This is why if you want a floor shift car buy one or buy the GD hardware and do it right. My car had a column with linkage removed would actually lock up wheel if you were not careful NOT kidding. Yes its a real column shift again with factory linkage and Im fine with that!



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I ended up pulling my window shield needed to be done. Then cleaned up the channel real nice some rust no holes flap disk and cleaned it real good. Then threw down rust converter. Will order new dash harness the light switch power connection popped shorted out my ignition switch I think it buzzes but when flipped either on or assessory no power turn on lights will kill the buzzer. Clearly got a short created by the old crap harness. No other damage other than my Witt's and pissed off. The hot rod harnesses look more complicated than I care to get. I will take out dash and inspect real well see if I can find the issue. Ordered new switch for column not sure if any relays are part of this maybe a bad relay was brand new for starter has power is good to fuse box. Just not sure where I go from here. But lost now frustrated. Maybe a new starter I hope I don't have to get new harness but probably best that I do.

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Looking at new wiring options. I'm thinking the Ron Francis XP798 harness will work as I have a very low optioned car.
 
Looked more and more and read what others had done. I ordered the Ron Francis Retro WB 95 kit it's not as nice as the autowire kit but it is budget friendly. I'm way over budget and I don't plan alot of crazy stuff for upgrades. I want new reliable simple wiring. Read the threads on those that did it. Will just take my sweet time and learn. WR-95 RETRO SERIES Mopar Wiring Kit
 
Looked more and more and read what others had done. I ordered the Ron Francis Retro WB 95 kit it's not as nice as the autowire kit but it is budget friendly. I'm way over budget and I don't plan alot of crazy stuff for upgrades. I want new reliable simple wiring. Read the threads on those that did it. Will just take my sweet time and learn. WR-95 RETRO SERIES Mopar Wiring Kit
I will hold onto my cars old factory harness as well.
 
I will hold onto my cars old factory harness as well.
I would keep it as well , mine was toasted from previous owner being foolish an no skills with wiring and made it worse , but I found another wiring harness same year uncut for identical setup , I can repair my old if I need to as I have one now to go by to fix the burnt wires if I feel the need , but wiring is not complicated to repair unless burnt up an melted ,
Pull out your old harness and start tracing out , could most likely repair , use solder style connectors , these connectors work great for repairs and all you need is a heat gun and save the old harness .
 
I would keep it as well , mine was toasted from previous owner being foolish an no skills with wiring and made it worse , but I found another wiring harness same year uncut for identical setup , I can repair my old if I need to as I have one now to go by to fix the burnt wires if I feel the need , but wiring is not complicated to repair unless burnt up an melted ,
Pull out your old harness and start tracing out , could most likely repair , use solder style connectors , these connectors work great for repairs and all you need is a heat gun and save the old harness .
I won't reuse it but it's good for reference I figured. Or if someone else some wants to go back to it later. I have an HEI-coil on distributor one wire, switching to a single wire alternator won't have an ECU. No AC car and rear defrost. This car can't get much simpler. My lights were doing bad things,. Often would not start and relay and starter battery cables all new. All that interlock crap was very old so hopefully this will cure that condition once and for all. Replacing column ignition switch as well while I do this. Oddly enough my turn signal switch was in great shape looked replaced. I had wires falling out of bullets if you scroll up and I had meltdown by headlight switch and dash when I got it open realized it has been getting wet for decades. Like many others told me you don't want to be on fire side of road get that out of there. I had hoped to save like you mentioned but realized it's not safe.
 
I won't reuse it but it's good for reference I figured. Or if someone else some wants to go back to it later. I have an HEI-coil on distributor one wire, switching to a single wire alternator won't have an ECU. No AC car and rear defrost. This car can't get much simpler. My lights were doing bad things,. Often would not start and relay and starter battery cables all new. All that interlock crap was very old so hopefully this will cure that condition once and for all. Replacing column ignition switch as well while I do this. Oddly enough my turn signal switch was in great shape looked replaced. I had wires falling out of bullets if you scroll up and I had meltdown by headlight switch and dash when I got it open realized it has been getting wet for decades. Like many others told me you don't want to be on fire side of road get that out of there. I had hoped to save like you mentioned but realized it's not safe.
Need to add relays for the headlight system , many writeups on that , I added to my 79 f100 and much better lights an less draw of power , the original as yours was could easily melt down like yours did over the years , I used the hei module on my challenger and made cheap an easy hei system , no ecu or ballast , cost like $25 to do it the poor mans way and worked great as the new china ecu's are junk
 
My original dash harness thanks to wires cut and some idiot jumping power to different locations to get lights or whatever to try and work , it was a mess

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I dug in the bus the wires come in under gauges appears it's been full of water! Went all through the dash lots of pictures of everything. I'm glad I pulled this all out after seeing how much the water draining into dash over the year. Check out the pictures with water lines Jesus Christ on a motor bike! Lol.

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Definitely water issue with yours , mine was a hack job and because there was a short somewhere to ground it burnt wires badly when they jump wires for 12v to power different areas , lucky it never caught fire on previous owner years back , but probably reason my body was in good shape with minimum rust issues anywhere , I hope to get some more work done with paint this spring to get drive train in
 
Definitely water issue with yours , mine was a hack job and because there was a short somewhere to ground it burnt wires badly when they jump wires for 12v to power different areas , lucky it never caught fire on previous owner years back , but probably reason my body was in good shape with minimum rust issues anywhere , I hope to get some more work done with paint this spring to get drive train in
Yeah when I cracked open that white bus and looked at board I pulled it tried nylon brush and some electrical cleaner and it had rust on the board! I knew this was about to get ugly I would basically have to replace most of it. At that point better to upgrade or get all new factory front to back.
 
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I got my ignition switch and harness and also my new front windshield gasket. Waiting on Ron Francis wires harness and they are doing my 360 cylinders at .30 over as I thought. Number one was a little on the low side when he checked it and was a little worse that others but cleaned up great. Little luck will have at least all the pieces to get this back together soon. Starting to warm up hopefully get a nice calm day spray my fender supports and gas cap.
 
Pistons came today and my wire harness. I hope I can reuse this brand new engine harness and strip out what I don't need. Lot of work and hopefully this pays off in reliability in long run. I got my pistons and rings will drop off builder tomorrow hopefully I can get engine back car and get car wired up by spring for Tulsa cars and coffee April 23rd show I want to go to. Also this one below in Bristow Oklahoma.

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Ignition switch is in pin was not that hard this was fairly easy thing to do. Nice info on site here and video online for rebuilding. That extra length wire sucks they shouldn't attach those! Way to long oh well better than what I took off switch was very loose inside compared to new one. I'm confident if I went back in time I could work on Mopar's blind folded now for sure Duster and Dart Sport not an issue!

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I will do my own transmission kit and rear end rebuild. Just really enjoying this.
 
Ok this harness is terrible. No instructions at all not happy with RF WR 95 at all. Planning to send this Back. All the connectors not even close all GM. How they can call this a Mopar kit no it's not. A quick guide is not a how to. The idea of spending 1000 is stupid but taking a year me doing the wiring as this is incomplete is a no go mega deflated now engine will sit on stand till I feel like touching this POS again in a year or two.
 
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