74 Dart 360 Sport

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I bought a reproduction Harness from Year One a few years back, and it was beautiful. ll the connectors were just like original.
 
I bought a reproduction Harness from Year One a few years back, and it was beautiful. ll the connectors were just like original.
Yeah issue is I won't be using a lot of so it why spend this kind of money when I'm going to cut it up for after market gauges and such. Just irked pretty sore about this purchase. I did look at year one but I figured this would be better than it is and it's not. If I wanted a GM kit would have ordered one sorry I don't get the love affair with GM at all. Can't stand it and this just pissed me off I got a GM kit.
 
Like each item you have to change out connector and order stuff big town is two hours away this is just way bigger than I planned on.
 
Only way I see this working is out the in dash and engine harness beside this and doing one piece at a time terrible design. Other option is if I find a wiring guru as this is not hobby kit to me. If this is painless I can't imagine how bad a painless kit is lol.
 
So did some more research I'm going to treat this as it is a basic harness which it is. Approach as I have no heater no defrost no radio will do the engine sensors and ignition and lights all new I can use the light relay harness I have and it has headlight connectors so I can plug into that. I hate I have a new engine harness but I can sell that and the dash harness to someone as it can be restored. Once I figure out where this. I was planning on AC and heater new for later and they come with their own controls and harness. I don't like it but this will work as Jpar has told me before but did you read it...maybe ha. Well I did but it didn't click. I blame old-timers pictures to come.
 
You got this man, I know what it feels like to realize the enormity of a project when I’m already in the middle of it. Just breathe, and take it one circuit at a time.

Just so you know I’m heading this same direction, I’m also blaming @j par for the inspiration. Hot rod 12 circuit harness, custom gauges and shitty instructions lol!
 
Sorry I didn't get back to you in your pm. I wasn't quite sure what you were saying and I think you were trying to post pictures but you can't unless you're a gold member impersonal messages..
First and foremost most all aftermarket not all of them but most of them are GM based.. they will say an instruction that they are for your car but they will have GM connections and you're supposed to change them.. $375 Plus shipping!..
For the Ron Francis?.. that's highway robbery..
Again this is what I talk about the cheap speedmaster Amazon 20 wire wiring kit. It pretty much doesn't have any ends on it that way you can run all the wires to your old connectors. I cut off the last four or five inches of each connector and connect on the new wires with the solder filled shrink wrap butt connectors...
For the 20 wire speedmaster 149 kit on Black Friday I bought it for $85 and did my truck...
I told every last wire out of the truck put in the fuse box and commenced to running each wire where it goes. And when I got to something that I didn't know I don't open my factory kit and figured it out. There isn't almost any kit on the market out there that has windshield wipers figured out totally. A lot of times you have to use just a power wire going to feed your windshield wipers and then your factory switches in wires. Even American idol wire doesn't have windshield wipers for Fords and other stuff... No American Auto wire will have your headlight connections heater connections ignition switch will definitely have to be converted to chevy.... Every last kid there is out there gives a three-way plug for the headlights because most all of these old rigs had round headlights with three prong connector even Japanese...
You can do it...
You should see how stupid the internet gurus think I am and prove how stupid I am but I drive my truck all the time...
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One of my favorite electric tools is this I borrowed one during this project but now just recently bought one. And if you notice there's a click on coupon at the very bottom I did that and got it for $42 to my door the very next day.. this what you applied 12 volts with just a mirror 10 amps that doesn't do any damage to anything will you check wires and continuity and all your connections and pe-run stuff as you hook it up..
This in a simple screwdriver with a wire that lights up style continuity tester is all you need...
Like both of the windshield wiper motors that I had were no good... Instead of having everything all hooked up and then have to pull it all back out I figured that out ahead of time.. and remember 10 amps isn't going to run the headlights the tail lights the blinkers the windshield wipers and all that stuff it's just for testing each circuit one of the time...
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One of my favorite electric tools is this I borrowed one during this project but now just recently bought one. And if you notice there's a click on coupon at the very bottom I did that and got it for $42 to my door the very next day.. this what you applied 12 volts with just a mirror 10 amps that doesn't do any damage to anything will you check wires and continuity and all your connections and pe-run stuff as you hook it up..
This in a simple screwdriver with a wire that lights up style continuity tester is all you need...
Like both of the windshield wiper motors that I had were no good... Instead of having everything all hooked up and then have to pull it all back out I figured that out ahead of time.. and remember 10 amps isn't going to run the headlights the tail lights the blinkers the windshield wipers and all that stuff it's just for testing each circuit one of the time...
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Oh wow that's a game changer the power deal wow I like that! I'm going to lay this all out in car and get to where it needs to be I think I can mount fuse box to the right of the old hole. Put in a plate and run a 1 inch rubber grommet and pass wires there and back via old locations back down sides that should be easy part. I can use the front headlight connector from the new relay harness I bought and will work great. I will get a hold of Francis as I would like to get proper connectors for wipers and other side of ignition harness and turn signal.

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In the end wants to have everything hooked up it's nice to put it in the battery position test everything out and then turn everything off and see if you have any kind of draw... You can dial it down to about 13 volts or so and it will tell you how many amps you're drawing...
 
Started a bit last night and ordered a couple things I needed Plate with grommets and some other stuff. Horn is done lol easy ones first. Ignition is next will connect ing1 and 2 to the HEI so that on start and run will be one or the other.

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I plan to pull out that heater unit tonight. Will not be rebuilding it plan to have a lot of stuff for sale next couple months heads, 850 thermoquad alot of other stuff I really doubt I'm ever going back stock. This car is worth more as restomod than stock even rare nature for year and options the sales for beak cars don't have big value. Knew that going in and that's ok I can do a trick front end and rear end suspension later. Plan for brakes and upgrades are coming someday. Im curious about 6 speed automatic from omega speedhttps://truebluemotorsport.com/omega6-spd-tech-info
No guilt at all as it's not cut up or half assed. Just see this on road a for bit al paid for and do some more work and make it better. Problem is your buddy keeps upgrading his and you ride in it and want your car to perform well and enjoy driving like they do.
 
I got a kid I know well not kid now 28. He is a veteran F18 electrician from the Marines. Army guy needs help on his wiring calling in the big guns tonight. Well get most of it sorted tonight.
 
My help got the funk but progress made regardless. Should have the lights and other items checked off this weekend. I got the old harness out of there. Coming along nicely. The relay was marked really well made that easy so I came eliminate that stupid seatbelt interlock tie in. Trans one will stay but that was cause of issues. New wiring will be nice and tidy won't miss the ballast ECU and other sillyness it has.

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Today will wire into my existing harness lights and relay harness. No way am I losing out on all the money and time spent on what was already brand new. I will have a lot of wire I did not use so if had more experience I could have saved some more cash as told previously. A cheaper kit in Amazon could do the same thing or hotrod harness for 90 bucks.

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We got lights/parking super excited moving along and dimmer works as well. Gotta finish up some more no test on the signals yet gotta get to the back of car sort out that fun. Plan to keep my new wires I ran to tank and ground. I will see what they supplied for gauges and feeds as they are nicer than what I had made previously. I will take a look may be worth cleaning it up.

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We got lights/parking super excited moving along and dimmer works as well. Gotta finish up some more no test on the signals yet gotta get to the back of car sort out that fun. Plan to keep my new wires I ran to tank and ground. I will see what they supplied for gauges and feeds as they are nicer than what I had made previously. I will take a look may be worth cleaning it up.

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So what's great when we share these pictures of work you get great ideas from others. I'm going to move relay under the battery tray! Nice hiding spot hopefully I can get a few more tips on hiding some of this. What sucks is it's after the fact that I painted the engine bay. Had I wired this first and already had windshield out I could have done this will all this with all the holes welded closed I won't be using! I know I can get some little flat caps and paint those. Bummer! But if I do another my plan will be very different from my toy. This a go fast fun car driver not a trophy winner. Could be with a little work here and there. I leave that for now for those with more time and patience than me. Glad I didn't pack up stuff and cover car.
 
So I go out to see the girl today and she flipped me off in the garage brake fluid leaking drivers rear brake drum cylinder. Jokes on "Smurfette" as I had already planned to replace. She is the worst girl friend ever she just takes and takes lol.
 
So I got out last night stripped the last of interlock I got wipers going. Wired the starter relay and the Ma Mopar ignition. The key in run ignition has 12 volts, start ignition 12 volts and ACC 12 volts. Brakes work I have the same passenger side tail light dead that's the old harness/socket I will trace and find that! Even checked the starter and it fires as well I didnt have 12 volts on the HEI pigtail I think I have to change the wire I choose from fusebox. I thought the Coil wire would suffice but I can always move it if need be.
 
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Ok now my gauges and cluster and I don't have things happening lights all working. Blinkers brakes dimmer and brights. Start tiding things up now. Oh the right rear taillight bulb was not in right I guess. Oh what fun! Finish up sensors and signals for cluster. Then I can add start on the AC.

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That's cool...
I'm glad I didn't do red my buddy since 7th grade comes over. He looks at it grins looks at me. I said dont do it! He says wait for Michael Knight is Knight Rider....I told you all this would happen. He was bummed I can't change to red lol.
 
Mounted fuse box last night and took all the extra wire out. Should start tucking it all in and dash back in this week.

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Must have got rid of probably a hundred feet of wire today. I have to get the voltage regulator VR88 for this harness uses a crossover Napa VR 428 unit. Don't wanna chance using the Mopar. Ron Francis is pretty specific about what one to use with their harness. One thing I will say is the hot rod wire harness with more circuits may have worked just as well as this kit. With me not using the ECU from Mopar I have a crap ton of wiring that was not needed. HEI sure does make this really easy on the distributor side.
 
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