74 Duster, full build 6.4 conversion in Australia, rebuilding front end questions!!

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So 99%completed the chasis stifening. And yes we did blow the odd hole in the floor as my floor when sand blasted has some pitting from previous rust.
But didn't warrant cutting floors out. Once on the ground we will weld up from above.
The torque boxes fitted very nicely however have had to add some slithers of metal here and there as trying to bridge the gap with weld was simply not going to work.
As you can see here where the torque box buts into rail its short, if we close that gap then the tongues dont reach where the fenders bolt on. However this is the easier issue to fix as the tongues being short would be a nightmare and structurally be lot worse
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Lot of people either run the chassis connectors over the rear torque box or vice versa, however that will make one not sit flush on the original chassis so i notched out the connector and inset the torque box into it. That way both connector and torque box sat perfectly in position. To avoid losing any strength in the connectors weld we welded the large hole to the sub frame in the connector so by notching the connector we have not lossed out on how it connects to the chassis.

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I have starred at this car so long it feels weird to look at it with a full chassis!!, its come up very neat and pretty much looks like its meant to be.
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Still more welding to do however its nearly done welding overhead was getting painful, will finish next week. Then drop the K frame, and fab up a dolley for the front then off to have the underside sprayed.
We will have the K frame blasted then seam weld the whole K frame and gusset around the steering box etc

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Measuring up the diff this week to hopefully cut down to exact size as super keen to keep this moving. Have the money to finish the whole project just not the time so starting to pay people to do the work as dont want it dragging on forever
 
Measuring up the diff this week to hopefully cut down to exact size as super keen to keep this moving. Have the money to finish the whole project just not the time so starting to pay people to do the work as dont want it dragging on forever
i do that with parts if i have the money. i can make parts like exhaust systems and headers but it's much quicker to bolt a bought system on for sure. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
i do that with parts if i have the money. i can make parts like exhaust systems and headers but it's much quicker to bolt a bought system on for sure. :thumbsup:
neil.
End of the day i have built many cars, but was prior to kids, owning company and renovating my homes. I just have to except its going to be part cheque book build or ill be under the ground by time its done haha
 
So the torque boxes all welded in and chassis connectors finished. Installed the mono leafs, Dr Diff offsets and a mock shortened diff.
Welds came up nice so glad thats all done!! Been a slow burn as cleaning out the factory at same time as building the car to create more space for the car and my business etc
Wherever they were on the chassis we seam welded wherever they were on floor pan we stitched as risked burning holes in the floor and we did in a few spots as had slight pitting on the top side.
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The Dr Diff gear was super easy to install, we have sat in a mock diff that is cut to the length i am pretty sure i require. Then the 8,3/4 will be cut to length to match. We have about 5mm from the side wall to the spring on both sides. The half inch offset and shortened diff is next to perfect for this wheel combo. Its a 275 rear with a 8.5 inch wheel and a good amount of dish.
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As you can see the rear wheel is tucked neatly inside the guard where as before it would sit outside the guard line and looked badly fitted. This is all mocked up with the brakes that will be used as well. A Ozy Ford brake disk and calipers as the same stud patern.
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Does anyone know why the Dr diff front bracket has two holes in it? Is this todo with lowering or raising the car an additional amount?
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So happy with how i got it to sit, given the wheels were random Market place purchase and winged the the whole offset leafs and shorten diff as many people said this was an odd way to do it haha.
I just didnt want to have to run the rear pumped up to clear the tyres
Hopefully pull the whole front end out in next week and build a dolley for the front for panel beater to spray the underside.

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So happy with how i got it to sit, given the wheels were random Market place purchase and winged the the whole offset leafs and shorten diff as many people said this was an odd way to do it haha.
I just didnt want to have to run the rear pumped up to clear the tyres
Hopefully pull the whole front end out in next week and build a dolley for the front for panel beater to spray the underside.

1" is a very common offset. So when I needed a housing I just had it made so 1" offset would center the tire in the opening.
 
1" is a very common offset. So when I needed a housing I just had it made so 1" offset would center the tire in the opening.
My wheels are 3.5 inch back space on a 8.5 inch rim. So by removing an inch from the diff and using the 1/5 inch spring offsets we just managed to fit the rubber. We will fine tune it with shims etc then cut the new diff to length.
Hopefully sort that this week
 
My wheels are 3.5 inch back space on a 8.5 inch rim. So by removing an inch from the diff and using the 1/5 inch spring offsets we just managed to fit the rubber. We will fine tune it with shims etc then cut the new diff to length.
Hopefully sort that this week
That is a pretty deep dish wheel.

This is a 15x10, 1" offset (6.5" backspace) with a 325/50 drag radial. It is not as deep as your wheels! Older picture of my car.

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So slowly pulling the entire front end out. Surprisingly easy, thought lot of the bolts etc would be seized given the age and lack of maintenance.
I have the full PST Graphite rebuild kit, i will also fully rebuild the lower arms and weld stiffeners on.
Once we have it all stripped apart i will strengthen the entire K frame.
Just trying to stay off line and buying even more parts, nearly purchased the PST strengthened tie rods, however thinking maybe over kill given just a streeter and the front end rebuild kit has new standard ones.
Thinking about the Firm Feel strut rods for more adjustment but again not sure if necessary
 
Removed the entire front end and dismantled the lot so that only the K frame was left. Everything came apart pretty easy and every bush was absolutely stuffed which has caused some issues. Fork lift made removing the K frame pretty simple so we could remove at standing height.
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Watched a few Youtube videos on how to remove torsion bars and even that was easy with the right tool, helped having a second set of hands as well.
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So due to the bushes been absolutely shagged there has been some metal on metal work!!! Looks like k frame will need repairs. Any thoughts on best fix for this? You can see the rubber gave way and the bush has elongated the hole in the k frame. Anyone had to repair this before?

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Now to blast the k frame, strengthen and powder coat and rebuild lower arms etc whilst the car gets the underbody painted.
Put the stock diff back in and removed the mono leafs etc, that will go back in once underside is painted.
I have left the upper arms in as still have to remove upper ball joints and read its easier to do in the car.
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So due to the bushes been absolutely shagged there has been some metal on metal work!!! Looks like k frame will need repairs. Any thoughts on best fix for this? You can see the rubber gave way and the bush has elongated the hole in the k frame. Anyone had to repair this before?

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Yikes!!! That had to have been banging around for years to do that. Can't imagine it was very stable on the road either with the LBJ moving around.

Assuming you can't source another one, I would carve out a piece of steel matching the thickness of the original and weld it in and grind it smooth to create the missing edge of that hole. You can't make it thicker there or the replacement parts (adjustable or not) probably won't fit right so I wouldn't plate over it.
 
Removed the entire front end and dismantled the lot so that only the K frame was left. Everything came apart pretty easy and every bush was absolutely stuffed which has caused some issues. Fork lift made removing the K frame pretty simple so we could remove at standing height.
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Watched a few Youtube videos on how to remove torsion bars and even that was easy with the right tool, helped having a second set of hands as well.
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I'll admit I haven't been following along, but since you're in Oz this picture made me do a "double take":

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So then I started reading from Post #1, and everything makes sense now!

I'm sure you're aware of this, but just be thankful you're working with a LH drive (US-built?) car rather than a RH drive, Australian built car, as the rust caused by that frame-mounted steering box on the Oz-built cars is a PITA to deal with!

Been there, done that.

Nice build, by the way!
 
Yikes!!! That had to have been banging around for years to do that. Can't imagine it was very stable on the road either with the LBJ moving around.

Assuming you can't source another one, I would carve out a piece of steel matching the thickness of the original and weld it in and grind it smooth to create the missing edge of that hole. You can't make it thicker there or the replacement parts (adjustable or not) probably won't fit right so I wouldn't plate over it.
Yep thats what i thought would of had a fair old clunk. And yes getting a new k frame not going to happen nd shipping would cost a fortune. I will scribe a piece of steel and weld it in. As its just locating the rubber and thankfully thick so will be easy to fabricate and weld. I will seam weld the whole k frame, and most likely strengthen the frame as well with the firm feel kit
 
I'll admit I haven't been following along, but since you're in Oz this picture made me do a "double take":

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So then I started reading from Post #1, and everything makes sense now!

I'm sure you're aware of this, but just be thankful you're working with a LH drive (US-built?) car rather than a RH drive, Australian built car, as the rust caused by that frame-mounted steering box on the Oz-built cars is a PITA to deal with!

Been there, done that.

Nice build, by the way!
Yes its a California car which is why i think was so easy to pull apart not one seized bolt. Hardest thing was popping the ball joints!!
 
Just went through the whole thread. Gotta say very thorough and clean job with everything. I myself used raptor underneath mine when I had it on my rotisserie

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Just went through the whole thread. Gotta say very thorough and clean job with everything. I myself used raptor underneath mine when I had it on my rotisserie

Just went through the whole thread. Gotta say very thorough and clean job with everything. I myself used raptor underneath mine when I had it on my rotisserie

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Thank you yep do it once do it right. I think ill stop the raptor liner at the seam just under the fire wall. Not sure if ill do the front half in raptor or just chassis black. Ill do the back of the front guards in it as well to stop stone chips and noise etc. Just have to make sure car super dry and rust free or it can hide rust developing etc
 
I did the whole under carriage and firewall up to the cowl seam. I then sprayed color and clear over it in the engine bay. Been about 5 years and looks like new still
 
Now to blast the k frame, strengthen and powder coat and rebuild lower arms etc whilst the car gets the underbody painted.
Put the stock diff back in and removed the mono leafs etc, that will go back in once underside is painted.
I have left the upper arms in as still have to remove upper ball joints and read its easier to do in the car.
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So due to the bushes been absolutely shagged there has been some metal on metal work!!! Looks like k frame will need repairs. Any thoughts on best fix for this? You can see the rubber gave way and the bush has elongated the hole in the k frame. Anyone had to repair this before?

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Firm Feel sells a kit that has everything pre-cut for you.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

Here are some pictures of mine done up and powder coated. I sent mine to them with the torsion bar socket loose in the frame and they welded it up in the fixture and did the whole kit. If mine had not been damaged I would have probably done it myself. They did excellent work.

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Firm Feel sells a kit that has everything pre-cut for you.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

Here are some pictures of mine done up and powder coated. I sent mine to them with the torsion bar socket loose in the frame and they welded it up in the fixture and did the whole kit. If mine had not been damaged I would have probably done it myself. They did excellent work.

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By adding thickness where the strut rods insert into kframe does that have any effect on their adjustment etc as essentially spacing them out with the welded washers?
 
By adding thickness where the strut rods insert into kframe does that have any effect on their adjustment etc as essentially spacing them out with the welded washers?
Theoretically, but it isn’t much. Plus I have fully adjustable strut rods so it would not matter.
 
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