7875 + 5.9 + E85 + Megasquirt

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It’s just a very old way of thinking about “turbo” camshafts. Before there was lots of test data. I haven’t seen a reverse split make more power in anything I’ve done. I tried a custom reverse split 224/218 in my big block that comp cut for me and it was terrible. The stock cam felt better. But that’s not to say it won’t work in something.
 
I didn’t see the reason why you posted your cam specs again. Maybe I missed something?
Dizuster originally had a (small)reverse split cam in his car with which, I believe, he still ran low 10’s around 135+ @ 3700lbs. He received criticism from big names and eventually switched to a custom split cam specked by Lil John who is I’d say an expert with turbo cams. The cam made almost no difference, and also failed to rpm past 6k despite a complete valvetrain revamp.
Are you thinking about switching?
I would think dropping in a gen 2+ 7875 would make the biggest improvement if you’re after a power increase
 
I think he posted it because of some chatter in another thread. In your example above I’d say there was some stuff going on in valvetrain that kept it from revving. Especially after a “complete valvetrain revamp”, sounds like someone missed the mark on selecting a spring or something weird with a ramp rate. Who knows, lots of variables. What I do know is my experience with reverse splits follows exactly what Holdener found when he tested them on an LS. They can and will make power there’s no denying that, just not as much as a single pattern or traditional split pattern of similar specs. I’d like to hear more of Dizuster’s story. Is it here somewhere?
 
Correct. I just posted the cam specs here cause I get that question a lot and never remember what it is so I have to go dig the paper out. No plans to change the cam.
 
Got one pass in at the track last night.
Boost controller was disabled since I wasn’t trying to set any personal records, just test out the new suspension and everything else I’ve changed over the last year. Really pleased with the launch. Car hooked well, went straight and felt really stable…and nothing fell off the car. Success! Lol
 
I added an anti roll bar. This made a huge difference. With the new triangulated 4 link the car would twist too much when launching. The ARB corrected all of that.
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Looks great. It launched good. Now time to turn it up a bit.
That was the idea last night. Had it all turned up, was next in line and the car ahead of me broke an axle (c clip rear), threw his wheel and axle and soiled the track with gear lube. After waiting two hours to get a 2nd pass, it was late and I was disgusted so we all packed up and went home.
 
That was the idea last night. Had it all turned up, was next in line and the car ahead of me broke an axle (c clip rear), threw his wheel and axle and soiled the track with gear lube. After waiting two hours to get a 2nd pass, it was late and I was disgusted so we all packed up and went home.

That was the idea last night. Had it all turned up, was next in line and the car ahead of me broke an axle (c clip rear), threw his wheel and axle and soiled the track with gear lube. After waiting two hours to get a 2nd pass, it was late and I was disgusted so we all packed up and went home.
Sorry about the double quote, website very slow to load. But I feel you on that, back when I ran at Fontana with my srt4 it sucked when a car broke and clean up took forever. Hope to get mine to the track here this year.
 
Not a whole lot to report. Between family vacation and endless rain in S. Florida this summer the Valiant hasn’t been getting a lot of use. I cleaned up some mangled sheet metal under the pass front fender, welded in torque boxes at all 4 corners and redid my exhaust. I was running a “bull horn” out the pass side and the noise was driving me crazy on top of melting the paint.
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And I’ve got this little thing standing in the wings. It might go in before end of summer also.
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How have those MT drag radials been on the street. 295’s? Do you wish you had gone wider or with a different tire?

Also, any chance you have any more pictures of the spot welds you drilled out for the mini tub job? I’m a little confused about where they all are. Everyone posts pictures of the line cut down the center of the wheel well, but are there spot welds inside the trunk holding the well in or are the welds underneath the car inside the well?
 
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How have those MT drag radials been on the street. 295’s? Do you wish you had gone wider or with a different tire?

Also, any chance you have any more pictures of the spot welds you drilled out for the mini tub job? I’m a little confused about where they all are. Everyone posts pictures of the line cut down the center of the wheel well, but are there spot welds inside the trunk holding the well in or are the welds underneath the car inside the well?
I’m running Hoosier 295s now. They are softer and lighter than the MTs but won’t last as long on the street. 295 is the max width on my car, 275s probably being ideal as the 295s do rub when I get the car into weird angles. On the minitub it’s been a while but as I recall I cut the tubs down the middle like most people and then cut the trunk sheet metal as close to the outside of the frame rails as possible. I couldn’t find my pics from when I did that but I know I have them somewhere. I’ll share if I find them.
 
Wish I would have ditched the OE style tank and made a flat trunk floor like that.
not like I have a spare in the trunk right now anyway.
 
My junk is back on all 4s after the front suspension swap. I lowered it a bit front and back and still need a professional alignment but after a few miles of test driving I’m happy with it.
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