8.25 to 8-3/4 or nah!??

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ScampChamp

ScampChamp

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Currently riding a open 2.45 geared 8.25 rear end in my 75 scamp /360/727 I would like to put an A-body 8-3/4 under my care but do to being hard to find and or expensive I have been looking at other options. I understand I can move the spring perches of a B body 8-3/4 and with right offsets and spacing for wheels can make that work. I've also heard of some sure grip 8.25 rear ends and heard of putting a locker and/or better gearing in a 8.25 also have heard that a 1997 and earlier Dakota 8.25 sure grip would work but I don't really know much about all I my options some advice would be awesome Also let's know what rear end/hear combo you are running. My car is right now an occasional driver stock to mild motor just like to drive it to work/ school etc nothing major no racing. Thanks again
 
Absolutely no need to change to the 8.750.
 
I also had 2.45s in an 8.25 i swaped it out for an 8.75 but when i took it apart it looked clean as hell inside for a 40yr old rear and after i beat the snot out of it! They are pretty tough!
 
3.55's are very common in the 8.25's and the later carriers will bolt in.you will have to change the carrier anyway's since the carrier break is at 2.45s
 
If no track time the 8 3/4 is a waste of money. Try and find a package with something like 355's and a track lock.
 
Put an 8 1/4 in my Barracuda, found a 3.21 sure grip in a Gran Fury. $55.00 at a U pull it yard. Put it all in the Abody rear, work great.
 
I wouldn't spend the time on an 8 3/4 unless your going to the strip every weekend. The 8 1/4 is tough. Also lighter than the 8 3/4. Just swap out the carrier for a suregrip and put in some street friendly gears. Way cheaper and it will suit your needs I'm sure. I beat the hell out of my rear end, never had a problem. I'm sure some other guys here will tell you the same.
 
Awesome that all sounds great too me. Any suggestions on where to find or buy a carrier. AND or some gears for it. Thanks again guys
 
Just make sure of your spline count and you can usually find a limited slip with gears from a Dakota on E-bay.
 
Jeep cherokees had 8.25s also not the grand cherokees they came mostly with crappy dana's.
 
thesiren74 said:
Jeep cherokees had 8.25s also not the grand cherokees they came mostly with crappy dana's.
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LOL I will take the crappy Dana any day over the 8.25.
I have run and trail tested both, the Dana is stronger.
 
sireland67 said:
LOL I will take the crappy Dana any day over the 8.25.
I have run and trail tested both, the Dana is stronger.
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Plus if you get a Dan 44 out of a Grand Cherokee you can use the disc brakes that come on them.
 
sireland67 said:
LOL I will take the crappy Dana any day over the 8.25.
I have run and trail tested both, the Dana is stronger.
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yep, the dana 44 is way better than a 8.25. every time i wheel i see a jeep without an axle because of busted shafts.
 
oliver said:
yep, the dana 44 is way better than a 8.25. every time i wheel i see a jeep without an axle because of busted shafts.
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Is it possible to find dana 44s with the 5x4.5" bolt pattern? I know they aren't very common from the XJs but aren't the Grand Cherokee ones too wide for an A-body also?

I've heard it mentioned once before someone had done this swap... maybe... :-k

To the OP I found a full 8 3/4" assembly out of a '67 Coronet (according to the seller) for $250 (2.94 gears, 741 case) but had to put another $200 at least in giving it an overhaul and I did most of it myself even, would cost more having a shop do it. Then getting the spring perches rewelded with the housing fully stripped down... you get the idea. This thing kinda popped up out of nowhere in my same town and I grabbed it but had originally intended to do a 8.25 swap. Since you already have one just swap the diff and gears and call it good; that $500 or so you'd spend to put a regular 8 3/4" in could be spent on a good used set of 3.55s and limited slip diff which you'd likely have to do to the 8 3/4" anyway.
 
I think I remember one side has to be shortened and use another short side axle.
I have Jeep wheels on my 4.5 pattern right now, so I know they are are out there and pretty common.

Paid 70 for all four from a craigslist ad.
 

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oliver said:
yep, the dana 44 is way better than a 8.25. every time i wheel i see a jeep without an axle because of busted shafts.
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I have to disagree. I think they are both right on par with each other. I have first hand knowledge of a friend who ran a 8.250 in an 11 second Demon for a few seasons hangin the front tires on launch. Only reason he removed it was when he upgraded the engine and transmission. He went to an 8.750. The 8.250 is in his shop waitin to go in a street car. He's never even taken the cover off because it held up. They are a LOT tougher than yall realize.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I have to disagree. I think they are both right on par with each other. I have first hand knowledge of a friend who ran a 8.250 in an 11 second Demon for a few seasons hangin the front tires on launch. Only reason he removed it was when he upgraded the engine and transmission. He went to an 8.750. The 8.250 is in his shop waitin to go in a street car. He's never even taken the cover off because it held up. They are a LOT tougher than yall realize.
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Tough on pavement i suppose, but off road the shafts like to snap and the tubes like to spin in the housing. That said, i would not have an issue running it in a hot little street car.
 
MOPEkidD-3 said:
Is it possible to find dana 44s with the 5x4.5" bolt pattern? I know they aren't very common from the XJs but aren't the Grand Cherokee ones too wide for an A-body also?
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Technically a bit too wide- basically E body width. '96-'98 V8 Grands have the 44as. '99-up was the new bolt pattern and I think those axles are almost 3" wider than the old ones. Technically if you were savvy enough to spot on 44 in a YJ or an XJ, that'd be a better bet than the 44a due to width.

TrailBeast said:
I think I remember one side has to be shortened and use another short side axle.
I have Jeep wheels on my 4.5 pattern right now, so I know they are are out there and pretty common.

Paid 70 for all four from a craigslist ad.
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Pretty sure that's for an 8.8, technically don't think you'd have to for a 44a. But you'd have to add perches to go leaf, and if swapping from a 7.25 couldn't reuse them.

Sure seems like if you can break an 8.25, an 8.75 is just as liable to. Lots of cheap gearsets but while some 8.75s have the crush sleeves- all 8.25s do.
 
oliver said:
Tough on pavement i suppose, but off road the shafts like to snap and the tubes like to spin in the housing. That said, i would not have an issue running it in a hot little street car.
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I agree. The Dana 44 is one of the most broken axles ever. Go to any Jeep forum and see for yourself.
 
Infecteddog said:
Technically a bit too wide- basically E body width. '96-'98 V8 Grands have the 44as. '99-up was the new bolt pattern and I think those axles are almost 3" wider than the old ones. Technically if you were savvy enough to spot on 44 in a YJ or an XJ, that'd be a better bet than the 44a due to width.


Pretty sure that's for an 8.8, technically don't think you'd have to for a 44a. But you'd have to add perches to go leaf, and if swapping from a 7.25 couldn't reuse them.

Sure seems like if you can break an 8.25, an 8.75 is just as liable to. Lots of cheap gearsets but while some 8.75s have the crush sleeves- all 8.25s do.
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Every time I see your screen name I get this picture in my head of a old rabies ate up dog with pus oozin from every orifice in his body.......and some new orifices he didn't come with.
 
The Dana 44 reputation for off road use is due to the specific use, and comparing the Dana 44 or any axle in off-road use to street use is not a good comparison IMO. The super large wheels and tires used in off road, put a LOT more torque load on any axle, and the wheels get stuck between rocks and add to peak torque loads on the axles, and the axle loading includes pushing a 2+ ton truck's weight up a 45* angle. Add that to gearing and engines that produce as much or more torque into the axle as any common performance street engine.

So, I don't look to off-road experience to understand likely paved street axle experience, or for road race or rally; they all produce very different torque loads on the axles. Those off-road guys can/do break any axle that will survive forever on a drag strip behind 500-600 HP....
 
Infecteddog said:
Pretty sure that's for an 8.8, technically don't think you'd have to for a 44a. But you'd have to add perches to go leaf, and if swapping from a 7.25 couldn't reuse them.
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Yep, I was thinking of the 8.8 ford.
The Dana 44 out a of a Grand Cherokee can be used as is with some different backspacing.
Well, there is also the mods to it for leafs and the driveline length to deal with.
 
Labor Day week I put a 3.55 Sure Grip 8.25 A Body rear end in my '67 Dart GT 383 in place of a 2.45 open diff'd rear end.

Not really a highway friendly ratio unless you're running 15" wheels or something with a 28" diameter, but sure pulls hard out of the hole with my 25" diameter tires.

Got it from a salvage yard in Upstate NY for $500.

Hemmings had an article on the 8.25 being adequate unless you have 500 HP and slicks.
Here it is: http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2007/01/01/hmn_feature21.html

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So Far, So Good
 
Do as other have mentioned and find a car with the 8 1/4" rear with suregrip and pull the internals and put them in yours. You will save lots of money and have a plenty strong rear for what you are doing.
 
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