8-3/4 Noise After Rebuild..What's Normal??

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Is everything made in China now? Do they make anything in the western hemisphere anymore? Do they even make anything in Japan anymore?
 
not even dishes... Japan, however Hondas, Kawasakis, Nissan, well not so much, everything is made in Delaware now..
 
If you happen to see an old guy with white hair throwing a silver dollar across the river up there, send him my way......we could use someone down here with a little of his famed integrity..........:wav:

Now it's a waiting game with the garage again..... Did I mention that it took me 4 hours to hand compound the grit and overspray off the top of my car after the last month it spent at the "Pro" shop?

This is really developing my prayer life........:notworth:
 
a gear set 195-227, bearings and shims 95-125 and clutch posi rebuild
kit 60-75....350-427 retail
if it was a real good gear set(higher price) there should be no noise or so very little it's not bothersome...provided it's set up correctly
...the popping noise your hearing when turning sounds like the posi not doing right. ask them if it was a clutch type or cone type (the cone type is
"somewhat" rebuildable but doesn't take a clutch kit(that they charged $$)
all the parts should have been on the invoice with the 400.00 labor for your total of 877.00 or so. they must know what parts they put in????
ask them where they got the parts for yours...or did they put in "used parts"
any noise you hear now will NOT get better with time..
 
Well, the car has been back in the "Pro Shop" for a week now, and I just got the call to come and get it. I learned from the mechanic that they supposedly put in Richmond gears, but who knows...no paperwork...

I'll post the results of their latest readjustments in a while....

I feel a little sick.......:shaking2:
 
Well, I guess this year will be a Merry Christmas.......

The "Pro Shop" admitted that the gears were set too deep and caused the noise, and that the new clutches in the posi rebuild were not properly lubed with what they put in the case............

They took my carrier to a local "driveline only shop" (I should have gone there first I guess) and they properly set the depths and tolerances, then sold him some of the good Mopar lube.....I took it out for a test drive, did some lazy 8's and backed it in and out of some parking spots........

PERFECT!....................They put in my new universals while they had the shaft out (I left them setting on the front seat.....forgot all about them last time), and they didn't charge me..........they also mounted my buddy's 4 new T/A radials on his '78 Volare Wagon for $25....

NOW, the rearend is so quiet, I can hear my power steering pump whining.................................................:blah5:

No problem.....................just needed a little fluid.......:drinkers:

Even as these guys made it right, I'll still be very hard pressed to ever go back again..............Live and Learn.
 
if they came clean on their mistake, then at least they wanted to do the right thing. why the car was not test driven and found this problem on the test drive, well that is not good shop ethics. all cars that get ANYTHING done to the drivetrain should be test driven and checked before handing off to a customer.
 
As it would be hard to trust there mechanical skills, it is harder to find a shop with good ethics than it is to find someone to just fix your car. Every shop will make a mistake or two along the way including our shop. I tell people if they require someone perfect to repair their car to call Jesus Christ the mechanic, as He is the only perfect person to every walk the earth.
 
Myself, I have been to shops of varying quality over the years. I do what I can myself, but as I get older and seem to have less and less time for the hobby I do less and less myself on the car/s.

I have an awful lot of good things to say about most shops I've gone to, some more than others; this is mainly because I do some upfront investigation before using a shop in many cases if I can.

But I have never been to any shop where there was nothing for me to tighten, readjust or whathaveyou from time to time, after I've gotten the vehicle back.
This is simply because shops have to make $$$/hr and can't fuss like you can. If they take the car back and make it right that's a big plus. Not knowing anything else about the shop you speak of I would hesitate to suggest what I'd do in your place, but from the sound of it, other than the time involved, they don't sound bad.
 
If I had a dollar for every hour I spent "fussing" over stuff that any shop would never even think of I'd be a rich man. That's the difference between the automotive "hobby" and automotive "repair."
 
What's most troubling about this whole thing is that they had the car for a month, then an additional week..... they did not give my old gears back for inspection, nor did they offer them.... they produced no paperwork at all for the new gears, even after my requests, and did not itemize the bill, nor state in writing what gears were used........

Now, I have no clear documentation on what was done......and to be honest, no proof either. THIS is what's thrown me...................

I took the car in for a pinion adjustment..........that's all........whether or not they actually did all they say (did it need new gears?...did it get new gears?...has the posi been rebuilt, and why with only 3000 miles on it in the first place?) will remain a mystery, unless I take the pumpkin out and inspect it for myself........which I'm not up to doing at this point......

SO, again, you live and learn..........$900. later, I wish I knew exactly what I got for my hard earned money. That's why I'll be hard pressed to ever return to this shop.

Merry Christmas guys! :angel5:
 
I think I agree with you then. I hadn't put it all together like that as you just summed it up, but yeah, I think I'd take the same position you are taking in this case, armed with this knowledge.

~Bill
 
as a shop owner that is absurd to give you a non itemized bill. i can understand not showing you paperwork for a sublet job from thier shop, but not writing up a bill for you is wrong. case in point, i just had a 10 bolt rear in a 67 gto built for a customer. it was a sublet from me, so that shops receipt is mine, but i detail all that was done on MY receipt to the customer, including the brand of posi we installed and what gear ratio his gears were, since his originals were totally fine and didn't need to be changed. i guarantee my work and in turn i guarantee that sub job.
 
I am inclined to say it was not set up properly,possibly pinion depth ,backlash,etc,if it is binding in reverse,and you can feel it, its mechanical, and friction modifier wont help,it could also be the side gears too,sounds like the shop didnt "go all the way" with it probably due to cost and parts availability
 
From what i here you saying your rear is NOT set up right. Shims on the pinion gear, side adjustments on the ring gear. You say it whines under acceleration. It's riding wrong on the gears. One side or the other. You say it whines when under deceleration. Riding wrong on the gears. One side or the other. You say it's quiet in between go and whoa. It's between front and back of gears. If the back lash is not set properly then the pinion gear and ring does not have a good pattern on the face of the gear. Those guys maybe racers but with what kind of cars. Oh while i'm talking, the yoke nut should be torqued to about 250 ft lbs. I'll bet their wrench don't go that high. Mine don't. Keep us posted.
 
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