8 3/4...School Me...

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crackedback said:
I'm gonna guess the crush sleeve crushed some more, let the pinion slop around and ate it up. If you decide to put it back together, put a solid crush sleeve eliminator in the case. Way better set up.

You need to take it all the way down to clean it up. Inspect the gears CLOSELY! I have a rear that did the same thing, and cracked ring gear teeth almost the entire outer circumference.

The sure grip, or posi as you put, is rebuildable. There are kits ranging from $10 to $45 They all do the same thing.

If you didn't pay too much for it, and the parts are good, it's a nice starting point for a rear.
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I have a 489 case myself and have heard about putting a solid crush sleave eliminator in the case...where can i get it and how hard is it to put in? I will be swapping out the 3.23's that are currently on my center chunk for 3.91's, so will it be easily accesible to put in the sleeve eliminator at the time of the gear change? also, with this mod/upgrade is there different adjustability when setting up pinion depth or anything else i need to consider?
 
mshred said:
I have a 489 case myself and have heard about putting a solid crush sleave eliminator in the case...where can i get it and how hard is it to put in? I will be swapping out the 3.23's that are currently on my center chunk for 3.91's, so will it be easily accesible to put in the sleeve eliminator at the time of the gear change? also, with this mod/upgrade is there different adjustability when setting up pinion depth or anything else i need to consider?
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Most any drive line supplier will sell you the eliminator. I like Randy's ring and Pinion, but any of them should be able to take care of you. No big deal to install, it uses a solid spacer and shims to set up the right bearing preload.
 
so i guess just ask for just that from any driveline supplier- an 8-3/4 489 case solid crush sleeve eliminator?
 
ckj688 said:
Is there a way to identify the spline count?
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If your referring to the spline count on the pinion, because they did have 2 different counts, you can identify them by the pinion nut size. If it takes a 1-1/8" socket it's a 10 spline pinion. If it takes a larger socket (1-5/16" or 1-3/8") it's a 29 spline pinion. As others mentioned the axle splines are all 30 spline.
 
just bought every thing from doctor diff,,,best pricing and shipping i could find,getting it all at one location in stock,, call cass at doctor diff
 
cool thanks for the info guys, im glad this thread came up! and fstfish66 i will definatly get in contact with cass, i have before hes a cool guy
 
Someone said the suregrip was unrebuildable? I'm just replacing bearings and shims, in the rear, that's not the part thats unrebuildable?

I really apologize for these novice questions, I'm just a young-gun trying to learn more about my Mopar. I must admit, it was an experience building a small block, a lot of fun and a lot of father son time that I wouldn't trade anything in the world for.

Thanks for bearing with me guys!
 
ckj688 said:
Someone said the suregrip was unrebuildable? I'm just replacing bearings and shims, in the rear, that's not the part thats unrebuildable?
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Putting bearing and shims in the rear isn't really rebuilding the SG unit itself. Unless by mentioning shims, you are splitting the SG unit and putting the shims inside.

The cone style SG is rebuildable. It tougher to do than the clutch style because a machining process is required. The SG needs to be split open, and the cones need .030-.040 removed from the outer most faces. A .030 hardened shim is placed between the cone and side gear to push the cone out and reseat in the housing. Makes the interference fit tight again.
 
oh ok, then I guess I'm "half" rebuilding the rear, lol. The suregrip unit is fine, it's the bearings that really need replacing.
 
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