skrews
Well-Known Member
The link would still hit the top of the lifter bore, and the pushrod would hit the lifter due to the pushrod angle.
89 360 vs 71 360
- Thread starter 69valiant21
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The link would still hit the top of the lifter bore, and the pushrod would hit the lifter due to the pushrod angle.
famous bob
mopar misfit
Assuming their not offset lifters , why would it make the pushrod hit one way or another ??
Still clear as mud to me , and why would the link bar be any closer to the "top" of the lifter bore / one way ore the other?
I can see the links hitting the block on the cyl side of the lifter bore.
I RAN A HEMI WITH THE LINKS ON THE BLOCK/CYL. SIDE FOR 14 YRS. , AND HAVE THEM ON THE GALLEY SIDE ON MY 440/505 . ????????????????
Excuse caps !!
Is the lifter at such a drastic angle on small blocks ?
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
While waiting at doctors office I started reading in Hotrod about Jesel roller lifters. I didn't get to finish the article. They were talking about Bushed roller lifters (For Street Applications) and how they don't wipe out your motor like the needle bearings do .I didn't get much further than that but maybe someone can elaborate . The may not even have them for small block mopars. Also I am talking out my butt when it comes to roller set ups as I have no real knowledge on this so don't beat me up too bad. I prefer standard solid cam lifters my self as I don't race much.
I found this. Opinions ?
Keyway — Jesel Valvetrain
I found this. Opinions ?
Keyway — Jesel Valvetrain
69valiant21
Well-Known Member
The common consensus in another thread is that a bushed roller would be preferred for that reason and can carry a larger load (more spring pressure?).
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
If you want to build a hydraulic roller engine that gives you no problems and uses Factory rollers and spider which are good for .600 lift on any aftermarket cam...then use the '89 360 block, it's perfect for you.
If you want to build a flat tappet motor or solid roller... the '71 360 is right for you.
Can you do the same with the '89 block? Yes...but it's perfectly setup to 'successfully' run a hyd roller.
If you want to build a flat tappet motor or solid roller... the '71 360 is right for you.
Can you do the same with the '89 block? Yes...but it's perfectly setup to 'successfully' run a hyd roller.
motorpirate
serial mopar owner
Anybody have any experience with this?
Pretty old post...Magnum solid roller style lifters...
Pretty old post...Magnum solid roller style lifters...
69valiant21
Well-Known Member
From that thread:
"This is a Magnum only mod.. wont work on a LA ( unless its a later one with the bosses for the spider plate hold down... )"
Interesting none the less. Sounds like he had plugs made and I would assume he pressed them in to the lifters to fill the oil pockets?
"This is a Magnum only mod.. wont work on a LA ( unless its a later one with the bosses for the spider plate hold down... )"
Interesting none the less. Sounds like he had plugs made and I would assume he pressed them in to the lifters to fill the oil pockets?
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Phreakish
Well-Known Member
He took apart the hydro lifters and effectively made a fixed pushrod seat with an oil hole. They would work with your 89 roller block (same spider and retainers as the non-magnum roller).
The modified lifters don't seem to be available anymore, and other forums/posts allude to issues/failures of these lifters that others have experienced.
If an aggressive cam is used in a roller block with OEM lifters it's probably just as effective to lash them solid and then back off 1/8-1/4 turn. Pump-up shouldn't be a huge concern if the car has a rev limiter and good springs.
motorpirate
serial mopar owner
The only reason I was curious about it is our 5.9 Mag has Hughes valve springs (1110's) and if it sits for a few days the stronger than stock springs collapse the stock lifters. they pump up right away after idling 30 sec or a min but it is irritating, it is a fairly mild Lunati cam with .485 advertised lift that is done by 5000/5500 RPM. I ran this car with a 273 for years so I am not intimidated by solids and just thought if there was an easy way to convert to solids I would, but we dont really need them for performance reasons.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I would think that as cheap as the OEM hydro rollers are, that an OEM style solid would be an excellent performance offering for magnum and LA roller owners. I agree, not having the OEM bleed-down issue on startup would be nice!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yes. A 59 degree lifter bank angle was for the Poly 318. The cheap asses at Chrysler decided that the RPM for the LA engine would be low enough that they could save money and use most of the 318 Poly core boxes.
And that's how you screw yourself. Didn't matter until Pro Stock started and RPM's started going up. I wasn't afraid to shift at 8800 and some times at 9000 with a 59 degree lifter bank angle but I had my geometry dead nuts on, I only used 5/16 stem valves and the intakes were titanium. I also had at least 340 pounds on the seat, 3/8 X 7/16 double taper pushrods.
But yes. The angle is that bad. And you can't use inboard link bars on a 59 degree LBA.
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