904 extention housing bushing

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hampton123

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while replacing my leaking rear seal I noticed my thrashed bushing. How do I remove that bushing? Do I have to remove the extension housing? Can i do this with the transmission in the car?
 
It can be done in the car with the right tool, it's complete pain in the *** without the right tool. It's easier to take the extension housing off the trans so you can use a normal busing driver to do the job. You don't have to disassemble the whole trans to remove the extension housing.
 
Ok since i don't have the right tool, support trans with Jack, remove extension housing bolts, gently slide it off? Am i missing any steps? Should i drive the bushing into the housing or out the end? Sorry not all the questions. This is the most transmission work I've done.
 
yes...near the rear mount and bottom side of the trans you see two phillip screws...unscrew those and remove the plate and gasket...

you will find a large snap ring....spread it apart....and after the bolts are out...the tail shaft will come out..

and you will need to spread it again to put it back on..and once the snap ring is on... take a screw driver and move bearing to get the snap ring to snap back in..
 
That snap ring is a bear, especially to put back in. Did a 727 on the floor and it took me 3 times to put it back on. Took it off under a car in the first try...
 
You will need a new gasket for the extension housing and the plate that covers the snap ring. The bushing can be driven in or out from either direction and make sure to line up the lubrication hole in the bushing with the slot in the housing when driving in the new one. When your removing/re installing the extension housing put the shifter in 1st gear to get the park rod in/out of the extension housing.
 
probably going to need a new tailshaft seal....i would put one
 
I bolted a couple large sockets together to drive the bushing in and out. To drive out I used a socket that just fit inside the bushing and one that was slightly smaller than the bushing ID. Then to drive in, a larger socket was used such that it served as a stop when the bushing was fully inserted. I drove only from the tail. It is often best to always work the same direction if possible, other wise the metal become rough making it difficult to drive in. It is important to allign the oil hole.

I placed the large end of tail on a board, and used a large dowel rod and hammer to drive the sockets. I tested with oiled drive shaft yoke prior to assembly, all was well.
 
You can also take a hacksaw blade by hand, cut it length wise and bend it out.

Also it helps if you put the extension housing in the oven, and the bushing in the freezer for 30 minutes before the procedure, as the install is what they call "interference fit".

Use plenty of lube going back in, and use a 2x4 between the bushing and your hammer as you drive it in.

Have a blast!
 
You also need to unscrew the speedometer cable and remove the speedometer gear housing assy. or you take a chance on screwing up the speedometer gear when you slide the extension housing off and back on. Pishta is right about the big internal snap ring being a bugger to work with. I found a cheap set of very large (about 17" long) flat nose inside snap ring pliers at the local tool supply that work fantastic. Cost less that $20 too.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Got it all apart and back together. I used black rtv instead of new gaskets, mainly because i couldn't find a gasket that i didn't have to order and i plan on doin a rebuild in the spring. So far no leaks tho.
 
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