904 slipping

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And of course I'm not talking about up top by the carburetor I'm talking going underneath the car and by hand moving the lever in finding out how much play it has and having someone step on the gas pedal and making sure every bit of that plays taken out and that lever is moved all the way to the end "at the transmission". The first part of its travel it should travel freely and then the last three quarters it should be under sprung pressure till it stops. Pulling backwards towards the back of the car?

guess ill be testing it out tomorrow
 
if i hold it wot and and pull the cable that should pull the lever on the trans all the way back but ill check that tomorrow after work.
 
Yes, and no
At 55/60 you were probably already in second gear, and the engine was just on top of the torque peak. The engine is putting a hurt on the tranny and the chassis is starting to push wind. It needed all the throttle pressure available, and it still wasn't enough.
Your trans will need a lots of up grades to survive that engine; the least of which is more throttle pressure.
Geez, it's probably sipping. It was originally built for 290 horses.. have you adjusted the bands?

we havent adjusted anything. the trans shop would of adjusted it back to stock when they took it apart and looked at it all

what would i need to do to beef it up to handle the power
 
You're saying that "should" which in my opinion is still leaving things unverified. It needs to be jacked up Hands-On verified LOL


if i hold it wot and and pull the cable that should pull the lever on the trans all the way back but ill check that tomorrow after work.
 
what do i need to do to beef up this trans to handle the power
 
And yes you'll probably have to "beaf it up", but I speak hypocritically because I got ideas in my head about putting my Stroker motor in front of my poor little 904 also. For now the 318 will have to give it hell....
 
I think there's a few basic items but what it accounts to as probably about five or six hundred dollars in extra parts? Thats from what I gather on the internet from looking this stuff up, no personal experience though.
what do i need to do to beef up this trans to handle the power
 
I'll go out on wild limb here and probably take a wild guess that three out of four of these Transmissions are trash because that linkage is incorrect. Now that you found that little bit of Slack that little bit of slack could have been eating away at the clutches for some time now. For a few years it'll work fine but in the long run if it's not correct this may become the result.
 
Yeah, like the tires were still spinning and they found a slippery spot on the highway. Fingers crossed.
Or maybe the tires just broke loose again after the shift.
No more like, don't overlook the simple things like the "proper" kickdown linkage adjustment and a simple and correct band adjustment.
 
readjusted my kick down and it still isnt right.. here are 2 videos of whats going on.. you can see the tach to
first test

second test
 
In the first video I thought I heard the engine rev up during the 1-2 shift.If that was not tire-spin, then that would be internal slippage.If the fluid level is right,and the second gear band is properly adjusted, and the TP(throttle Pressure) is maxed out; then the tranny can't take it and needs help.
 
In the first video I thought I heard the engine rev up during the 1-2 shift. That would be internal slippage.If the second gear band is properly adjusted and the TP(throttle Pressure) is maxed out, then the tranny can't take it and needs help.
thats y i tried to get the tach in the video. when its shifts from 2nd to 3rd is when you hear the engine rev up... when you say needs help what do you suggest we do
 
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Yeah I call new clutches on that one but no big deal $105 rebuild kit and you're back on the road banging gears. You would love the Transco stage 3, I do.....
 
It would have been better if all we saw was the tach and heard the audio. On my screen I just couldn't see the tach properly.
You will know what to replace once the tranny is apart.
Then there is the catastrophe prevention program, which might include HD parts like planetaries,sun-shell, Drums with more and heavier duty friction area,HD bands, and a bolt-in rear sprag, PLUS the HD shift kit which will show you how to crank up all the pressures.
 
yea we dont have a **** kit at all.. is there any thing else i should look at. will a pressure test help? what should the bands be adjusted to? is it adjusted differently from a HP car to a standard car.
 
if i rebuild im getting the red eagle kit with there clutchs
 
I would guess the front clutch is slipping. In 3rd. the front and rear clutches are both applied and the rear clutch is applied in first and second. If the rear clutch was slipping you would get slippage in 1st. and second but it doesn't appear that you are. Time for a overhaul with HD components. I would put in a bolt in sprague and what ever valve body or valve body mods you choose. You really should contact someone like A&A to get the correct parts.
 
is there any thing i can do to help it stop slipping . would a shift kit help or any adjustments?
 
No adjustments for 3rd except a line pressure adjustment and kickdown. You might be able to get it to act better by removing the accumulator spring and just putting the piston back in. Or put in a block off tube with the piston.

If you're truely slipping at all, those clutches are trashed. Even if you had a snake oil remedy that worked, it will only last so long and it's not going to handle a 360 mag.

Transmission is like brakes, they just wear out and when you add power and hard shifts, it accelerates this.

Luckily you have a 904. So you don't need a bolt in sprag if the cam is still ok. Saves some $, just by springs and rollers.

I use a 904 behind my turbo 318 and I used a 5 clutch front pack, 4 in the rear. Quality bands, clutches and steels. Oil cooler and deep cast pan. Billet servos. Viton seals. New bushings are a must.
 
No adjustments for 3rd except a line pressure adjustment and kickdown. You might be able to get it to act better by removing the accumulator spring and just putting the piston back in. Or put in a block off tube with the piston.

If you're truely slipping at all, those clutches are trashed. Even if you had a snake oil remedy that worked, it will only last so long and it's not going to handle a 360 mag.

Transmission is like brakes, they just wear out and when you add power and hard shifts, it accelerates this.

Luckily you have a 904. So you don't need a bolt in sprag if the cam is still ok. Saves some $, just by springs and rollers.

I use a 904 behind my turbo 318 and I used a 5 clutch front pack, 4 in the rear. Quality bands, clutches and steels. Oil cooler and deep cast pan. Billet servos. Viton seals. New bushings are a must.
where did you get the 5 clutch front drum?
 
Was previously installed! On a 76. At least the drum was. The piston was a 4 clutch type. You can tell because on a 5 clutch, the drum is tapered inside where the piston is and extends into to it to help fit the stack-up. So these jokers used a 4 clutch piston with 5 super thin steels and friction to get the stack-up.

OP, Some say to buy fancy multi spring drums vs single spring ones like stock but I've heard it's only necessary at higher rpm and I stay relatively low.
 
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