904 tranny problems

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Explain "rough" when the wheels turn.
Is it kind of a evenly spaced click click click when you turn one wheel?
 
martin53 said:
Could it have something to do with the rear axle I'm still stuck
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It could but I see you said you could push it by hand and generally if you can push it by hand things are ok in the differential.

Is the engine in good tune? Fresh spark plugs and points (if it's old enough to have points). Does the engine rev strong in neutral/park? Or does it seem sluggish?
 
Revs and idles good haven't put plugs or spark plugs. I got a little of a backfire out of nowhere. Could it possibly be the converter I put fluid and seems like its always full
 
When did it backfire? What were you doing when it backfired? If you were trying to take off and it backfired it's possibly running lean.

No way to guess about the converter with the information given. What do you mean "you put fluid and seems like it's always seems"? If it checks full why would you add fluid?
 
It started backfiring while idling after warmup. The engine and trans sat for around eight years. The reason I say its always full is after I changed out the filter on the tranny I put around eight quarts in and the day I drove it and would still have to rev high to move but ran a little better than now. The day after that it had a small leak that I thought was the pan but was coming from the shifter. Looks like a it lost a lot of fluid but started it up and checked at idle and was still full. Should I tune it up and how do I get rid of the lean. What's the best way to fix the boring on the shifter. Thank for the help fishy
 
Backfiring when idling could be either a plug misfiring or the carb is running lean. Since it's sat a long time I'd tune it up and adjust the carb for best idle with the trans. in gear and the parking brake set, or someone sitting in the car holding the brakes on. The reason you adjust it in gear is sometimes if you adjust it in neutral then put it in gear it's a little lean. Putting it in gear loads it.

Trailbeast help me out on the shift shaft seal replacement. They make a tool so you don't have to drop the pan and valve body, don't they?
 
fishy68 said:
Trailbeast help me out on the shift shaft seal replacement. They make a tool so you don't have to drop the pan and valve body, don't they?
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I have not seen one for TF's, I guess because it's so easy to pull the valve body.

You can however (Pull) and new seal in from the bootom with a home made tool, and it's easy to make one with a section of allthread, nut's and washers.
Or, it's pretty easy to use a slide hammer with a washer on it.
This way you pop the seal out with a screwdriver and then pull the seal in from the bottom.

Still have to pull the valve body though on a TF.

For some reason I still have the manual shaft seal removal tools for TH Chevy's and C series Fords in my toolbox. (Why???) :D
 
martin53 said:
The fluid is good for sure the tranny sat for years could it be the filter the guy that sold it had no problems at all with it
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If the transmission has sat for years, there is a good chance that the lip seals in the drums are mishappen. Does the transmission feel like it's slipping?
By the way, the converter does not pump the oil, the transmission pump does that. Have you checked the pressures?
 
yes miller& snap-on make "shift shaft seal replacement" tools for tf. im not at home right now to give the part number off mine or i would now. ill check & give you snap-on part# after work. there awsome. i jack up the dr. side only to have all fluid go twords pass side so no fluid puks while changen the seal.
 
transman said:
If the transmission has sat for years, there is a good chance that the lip seals in the drums are mishappen. Does the transmission feel like it's slipping?
By the way, the converter does not pump the oil, the transmission pump does that. Have you checked the pressures?
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I've changed the filter and how do I check the pressure. The guy that owned it be for said he had no problem with the tranny but said the motor timing might have been off
 
fishy68 said:
No No No. Improperly adjusted throttle pressure linkage will not cause a car to not move at all. You could take it completely off and the car would still drive forward and backwards, it'd burn up the trans. with it removed or maladjusted but it'd take off.
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When my kickdown was reset after reinstall I had the same issue. Too far one way it would slam into gear, too far the other way and it would be mush and require some gas to even move.
 
martin53 said:
It started backfiring while idling after warmup. The engine and trans sat for around eight years. The reason I say its always full is after I changed out the filter on the tranny I put around eight quarts in and the day I drove it and would still have to rev high to move but ran a little better than now. The day after that it had a small leak that I thought was the pan but was coming from the shifter. Looks like a it lost a lot of fluid but started it up and checked at idle and was still full. Should I tune it up and how do I get rid of the lean. What's the best way to fix the boring on the shifter. Thank for the help fishy
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This is exactly what mine drove like when my kickdown linkage was out of adjustment. Adjust it one way or the other and see what happens. Could be a simple fix.
 
How high does it rev before you start moving? Does the car have a tach installed? If you're certain there is enough fluid in it, pull the dipstick & smell the fluid. Does it smell burnt? Like burnt toast or burnt popcorn? If so get someone who is familiar with automatic transmissions to look at it. It may be time for a rebuild if it's slipping. As another member pointed out, the problem is not likely the kickdown/ throttle pressure linkage adjustment. It won't cause it to slip when pulling away. It will however, cause it to fail if not properly adjusted later on.
 
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