904 trans mysterious ticking sound and introduction

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DQ81

'73 Dart
Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Messages
248
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Location
The Netherlands (Holland)
Hi there fellow Mopar lovers and apreciators.

I'm not completely new to Mopar having owned 3 w200 Powerwagons. Most recently an awesome '79 Club Cab with a mildly modded 360. Unfortunately it's just too much truck for the small streets of The Hague where I live and I found myself making 3 point turns just to turn into a street!

Anyway, I am purchasing a '73 Dodge Dart that's in relativly good shape at the end of this week. I've had thorough look at the chassis and floor pans, rock solid. The only rust is in the rear wheel wells so it shouldn't be too bad a "poor mans resto".

My goal is to get the car looking menacing in flat grey with some chunky tires and chrome wheels and dark windows.

First however, the mechanics of it need to be in order.

It has a 318, which by the fact that it's been painted orange was at least lifted if not retrofitted. I've yet to get the vin for the definates.

The 318 has a 2bbl, Hooker Headers and a 2.75" true dual exhaust with Raptors at the end.

Motor runs well, needs a bit of tweaking and a bigger carb.

The trans, and thus this part of the forum:

It shifts ok, a little late, I'll check the linkage.

Here's the problem:

When you apply throttle or release there is a sound I can only describe as a marble dropping on the ground or a spoon being hit on a tin in a bouncy manner. Apply throttle and you hear 'tick......tick....." it's quite slow, release throttle and you'll hear one tick. Sometimes the tick is followed by a sort of whirling sound. Not very pronounced but enough to worry.

I'm told it's a 904 transmission.

I'd like to prevent any further damage or isolate the issue.

Any ideas would be greatly apreciated!

Some pics of the beater:

73DartFront.jpg

73Dartrightside.jpg

73Dartrear.jpg


Obviously the homebrew scoop gotsta go!!!

But mechanical first....

BTW, IF my tranny needs a rebuild I'd prefer a four speed manual, anyone done a swap? Other than the obvious in terms of plumbing for the clutch is it a tough job?

Ideas?

TIA
David
 
That could very well be a front U joint noise (if only present in gear).
Could be flexplate to converter bolts too. if both those a re ruled out the neck on the converter that drive the front pump might be cracked.
As for a whirley noise, I have a 904 with a front pump that sounds like something from a sci-fi movie. LOL Always been there , never failed, 300K miles.
Good luck
 
allrighty, I'll look into the ujoint. Any surefire way to test that?

It seems to make the noise when I brake also which would make alotta sense with a bad joint or loose bolts...

It was origionally a slant six, so the 318 is a later implant (just decoded the vin)

Any other possiblities within the trans to make such a noise?
 
Reach under the car and turn the driveshaft by hand. If it turns more than a quarter inch or so and you can feel a clunk, the u joints are bad. It's a lot easier to change both of them than try to figure out which one is bad. Besides, if one is failing the other isn't too far behind.
 
The thing is, the sound is higher pitched than what I would call a driveshaft clunk. It's like small marble bouncing on a tiled floor once or twice...

I'll crawl under it tommorrow and see...
 
U joints can make a sorts of noises and some will cause a vibration at certain speed ranges only and without making a sound. Take the shaft out and you can feel the bad while moving it in your hand though.
 
I had this problem on a 79 360 powered New Yorker with a 904 lock up tranny. One half of the converter snout that drives the pump broke off. It made a sound like a flex plate but all checked out and I was only able to see the problem after dropping the tranny and pulling out the converter...
 
Did you have the same shifting problems I have?

My TQ doesn't lockup. In 1st gear goin' 30, I have play untill the revs match teh speed.

More detailed description of the transmission issues I'm facing, the noise doesn't bother me as much as the shifting, although the two could be related. If need be I can post a vid on Youtube showing the cars behaviour.

The driveshaft is in tact and been checked and double checkt btw. It's not that.

I've played with the shiftlinkage a bunch, from the stock setting it should have to fully backed off and the opposite and just about every turn in between. I've just about had it on every point on the thread possible. Is there anywhere else it's adjustable? All seem to have no influence on shift point of 1st to 2nd. I had her up at 80mph today and still in second! So 3rd might be toast, perhaps the whole trans.

The shift from 1st to 2nd under partial or full throttle is exactly the same, between 35 en 40 MPH (and I'm sure it's not a 2-3 shift, because of rpm's and if I drop it back to 2 on the column once it's shifted it's the same gear)

I can get it to shift at 35 if I back of the throttle just around 36. I don't like winding the motor up like that every time and the mileage isn't great either.

I'm thinking I might just pick up a used 727 and pop that in. That should just be plug and play right?

the fluid isn't burned and is full. Can someone positivly ID my trans by a picture of the pan or should try and crawl under there.

I'm almost positive it's 904, but as the motor isn't origional, and the rear end seems te be a Dana 40 or 44 (who's good at identifying these btw?) the trans could be something else also.

Again I had her at 80mph today and it was second gear and high revs, not fun. If anybody has any advice on getting this thing to shift correctly I'd be eternally gratefull.
 
You probably have a 904 behind that 318. More than likely your kickdown linkage is out of adjustment. Start by adjusting the linkage to factory specifications. If you don`t get the line pressure right you`ll burn up the transmission. You`ll also want to check the fluid on a flat surface, hot, idling in neutral. A couple quarts short and these transmisions can sound like they are coming apart. Post a picture of the pan and we can ID the transmission.
 
You probably have a 904 behind that 318. More than likely your kickdown linkage is out of adjustment. Start by adjusting the linkage to factory specifications. If you don`t get the line pressure right you`ll burn up the transmission. You`ll also want to check the fluid on a flat surface, hot, idling in neutral. A couple quarts short and these transmisions can sound like they are coming apart. Post a picture of the pan and we can ID the transmission.

Here's a pic of the pan, it's a 904;

14112008843-1.jpg


I've checked the trans oil several times in N on a flat surface at temp. It reads between full and 1/2 Quart low every time.

I've adjusted the kickdown linkage to factory, as described above with full line pressure at WOT and just about everything in between to no avail.

Are there any other part of the kickdown that could have moved or come loose at the trans?

Edit: I also want to ad that I completetly disconnected the shift linkage (i didn't drive far..) and am aware of the possiblity of frying the trans this way, what I found was that the shift point did not change in any way with the shift linkage disconnected. Shouldn't it have shifted very very early this way?

Perhaps the linkage is bound somewhere else or at the trans? What else can I check?
 
That`s a 904 alright. It sounds like the fluid level is good. Can you move the kickdown linkage with your hand and see the lever move back on the transmission? It still sounds like the linkage is out of adjustment. Has the linkage been changed? How about the carburetor or intake? Changing any one of these things can throw off the adjustment. Is the filter new, could it be clogged? The valve body could be leaking and /or the kickdown band could be out of adjustment. Before getting too deep into things, check that kickdown linkage again and look for the obvious as well as for things that have been removed, replaced, or tampered with.
 
Hey david, as i had kinda touch on with you about the motor swap i would still be willing to bet its the linkage getting slightly bound up. under the car as i did have a simmilar problem with my car with a poor conversion, due to improper motor mounts and the motor leaning. the pic of the tranny kinda seems like that may be part of the issue your having
 
Did you have the same shifting problems I have?

My TQ doesn't lockup. In 1st gear goin' 30, I have play untill the revs match teh speed.

More detailed description of the transmission issues I'm facing, the noise doesn't bother me as much as the shifting, although the two could be related. If need be I can post a vid on Youtube showing the cars behaviour.

The driveshaft is in tact and been checked and double checkt btw. It's not that.

I've played with the shiftlinkage a bunch, from the stock setting it should have to fully backed off and the opposite and just about every turn in between. I've just about had it on every point on the thread possible. Is there anywhere else it's adjustable? All seem to have no influence on shift point of 1st to 2nd. I had her up at 80mph today and still in second! So 3rd might be toast, perhaps the whole trans.

The shift from 1st to 2nd under partial or full throttle is exactly the same, between 35 en 40 MPH (and I'm sure it's not a 2-3 shift, because of rpm's and if I drop it back to 2 on the column once it's shifted it's the same gear)

I can get it to shift at 35 if I back of the throttle just around 36. I don't like winding the motor up like that every time and the mileage isn't great either.

I'm thinking I might just pick up a used 727 and pop that in. That should just be plug and play right?

the fluid isn't burned and is full. Can someone positivly ID my trans by a picture of the pan or should try and crawl under there.

I'm almost positive it's 904, but as the motor isn't origional, and the rear end seems te be a Dana 40 or 44 (who's good at identifying these btw?) the trans could be something else also.

Again I had her at 80mph today and it was second gear and high revs, not fun. If anybody has any advice on getting this thing to shift correctly I'd be eternally gratefull.


Yes the car did have shifting issues because of the pressure bleed off around and through the broken converter snout....
 
try the flexplate - I had a noise like that and the flexplate was cracked on one tab...
 
This morning early and with everything still very cold the trans shifted properly at low speed from 1st to 2nd. Just the once, it was aprox 25F outside. Could the oil being thick have something to do with my prob.?

I have the car on a lift as I'm working on the rear quarters so I want to check the shift linkage, how does it work with relation to pressure? Further back at the trans towards the rear of the vehicle is more or less pressure? And is more pressure delayed shifting?

TIA
David
 
This morning early and with everything still very cold the trans shifted properly at low speed from 1st to 2nd. Just the once, it was aprox 25F outside. Could the oil being thick have something to do with my prob.?

I have the car on a lift as I'm working on the rear quarters so I want to check the shift linkage, how does it work with relation to pressure? Further back at the trans towards the rear of the vehicle is more or less pressure? And is more pressure delayed shifting?

TIA
David

I hate to be annoying, but:

Could someone be so kind...
 
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