I just figured out I have a 26 spline output shaft. Problem is I have a motor that dynoed at 480 hp and 505 tq will that shaft survive I plan on spirited driving and drag strip sometimes any help would be wonderful.
A 833 output shaft question 26 spline
- Thread starter Paul Davidson
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I've never seen anyone ask about an OUTPUT spline. 23 or 18 input yes and either of those will stand up just fine to that HP.
Projectile Dart
Well-Known Member
On the output side, I would imagine the U-joints will break long before the output shaft shows any signs of damage.
moparlvr166
Well-Known Member
I don't see a problem; I've abused them in the past and did not have a problem.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
i'll add to the chorus, in that i wouldn't sweat it. you'll lose a u-joint before that becomes a worry.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Brewers has what you need.
Read the history of the A833 on their site.
www.brewersperformance.com
Read the history of the A833 on their site.
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
I spoke with a gentleman I believe his name was Dan at brewers because I need a yoke to fit my Trans. And since I'm running a 1350 on my rear I wanted to have the same in front but No one makes a 1350 26 spline yoke so we spoke about how strong the shaft is and that's where tis all started. so Dan said I would break the shaft long before I would hurt a 1350 so I was just wondering if anyone had this same situation
What Trans and what u joint
That was from a 727. Stock precision u-joint.
Point. If an automatic can do this? An A833 would likely be rougher on the parts. Thus I believe is the weak point of the driveline.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
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I have never run that small shaft.
I have been running the A833s almost continuously since 1970, in various bodies.
Since I put 1350s on my driveshaft, I haven't had any more U-joint failures.
Initially, on this my final hotrod, I had 7290s, but the rearend had a 7260, with an adapter joint. That was fine with 245 street tires. But a pair of 275/60-15s made short work of that lil guy.
When I bought/installed my GVod, it came with a 1350 . So when I had the machine shop make me a new driveshaft for it, I had the back one swapped to a 1350 as well, and then installed a 7290 yoke on the rearend, and again with an adapter joint, but a bigger one. That set up has survived even 325/50-15 BFG-DRs.
By it's Eighth mile speed of 93MPH, this 367combo is at ~430hp. But to be fair, her 60 ft is 2.4x seconds so traction is not her strong point.
I had been running a CenterForce II set-up on her, but it was too brutal for me. So I swapped out the disc in favor of a factory 340clutch disc, still in the CF diaphragm PP (which combo I really like). However in 4 or maybe 5 summers, I accumulated 3 torn up factory discs, so I had to change my take-off and shifting strategies, lol.
It needs one again, lol. ....................................
FWI; The 340 discs spit out springs (regularly), and/or shred the organic pads (occasionally), and/or fracture the spring-loaded center hubs(2 out of 3). But they are sooooo nice around town.
I just gotta say one thing;
Suppose that lil shaft breaks at speed. Imagine what's gonna happen.
The back half is driven by the rear wheels. Depending of where exactly it breaks, it can't really go anyplace, but, the front half is gonna beat the crap out of it, and so, without the bearing support, that back bushing was never designed for that kind of thing. My guess is that it will flail about, and take out the bushing before you get the car stopped, if in fact the extension house survives at all.
But the front half, without the rear bushing support I think should still be fine, especially if you clutch it when you figure out what has just happened.
My question is this, What happens if this occurs 500 miles from home?
This is gonna get real expensive really quickly.
I initially, on purpose, put that 7260 in the back, to act as a fuse. Bad idea; When it broke;
Number one, I was walking, and
number two, the car had to be towed, and
number three the yoke on the rearend was junk.
So, no more fuse I said;
and let whatever will be, be .........................................
I have been running the A833s almost continuously since 1970, in various bodies.
Since I put 1350s on my driveshaft, I haven't had any more U-joint failures.
Initially, on this my final hotrod, I had 7290s, but the rearend had a 7260, with an adapter joint. That was fine with 245 street tires. But a pair of 275/60-15s made short work of that lil guy.
When I bought/installed my GVod, it came with a 1350 . So when I had the machine shop make me a new driveshaft for it, I had the back one swapped to a 1350 as well, and then installed a 7290 yoke on the rearend, and again with an adapter joint, but a bigger one. That set up has survived even 325/50-15 BFG-DRs.
By it's Eighth mile speed of 93MPH, this 367combo is at ~430hp. But to be fair, her 60 ft is 2.4x seconds so traction is not her strong point.
I had been running a CenterForce II set-up on her, but it was too brutal for me. So I swapped out the disc in favor of a factory 340clutch disc, still in the CF diaphragm PP (which combo I really like). However in 4 or maybe 5 summers, I accumulated 3 torn up factory discs, so I had to change my take-off and shifting strategies, lol.
It needs one again, lol. ....................................
FWI; The 340 discs spit out springs (regularly), and/or shred the organic pads (occasionally), and/or fracture the spring-loaded center hubs(2 out of 3). But they are sooooo nice around town.
I just gotta say one thing;
Suppose that lil shaft breaks at speed. Imagine what's gonna happen.
The back half is driven by the rear wheels. Depending of where exactly it breaks, it can't really go anyplace, but, the front half is gonna beat the crap out of it, and so, without the bearing support, that back bushing was never designed for that kind of thing. My guess is that it will flail about, and take out the bushing before you get the car stopped, if in fact the extension house survives at all.
But the front half, without the rear bushing support I think should still be fine, especially if you clutch it when you figure out what has just happened.
My question is this, What happens if this occurs 500 miles from home?
This is gonna get real expensive really quickly.
I initially, on purpose, put that 7260 in the back, to act as a fuse. Bad idea; When it broke;
Number one, I was walking, and
number two, the car had to be towed, and
number three the yoke on the rearend was junk.
So, no more fuse I said;
and let whatever will be, be .........................................
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But your 727 has a 29 0r 30 spline shaft so much stronger
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