Has anyone put in 2" tti headers on a 383 with stock heads and stock stearing. I called TTI to see if it would fit since they fit the 440 with stock heads and the answer I got was maybe. It fits some 383's and other it interferes with the stearing. Just want to see if anyone else hs done it and if so what had to be done or if it fit with out modification. Its hard to believe the 1 3/4" fit without a problem and the 2" hits the steering linkage. That means the the 1 3/4" is 1/8" from the linkage. is that correct.
A Body 383 need Header info
- Thread starter 02sixxer
- Start date
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I have them on my 383 with factory iron heads. They clear a mini starter, (barely). They touch the block bellhousing area on the passenger side, but not enough to affect gasket seal. No issues with steering. I do have a motor plate, so no info on mounts. They are super close, just a variance in engine mounts might be a make or break deal. Pretty expensive headers to guess on. A very well qualified engine builder told me my 2"ers are way too big for a 383, and I'm giving up a lot of power. The 383 is temporary, so thats not a big deal. I did a '67 Dart with a 440 and the 2" headers, MUCH better clearance.
zac_F71
Well-Known Member
I plan to make my own- Summit has BB header flanges with tubing stubs welded on them.. they're 2" IIRC but plan to step them down to 1 3/4"
I plan on having the 383 for about a year. I have a 440, but dont have the money to build it the way I want right now. I dont want to buy the 1 3/4" just to need 2" for the future build.
Did you make your own plate or buy a particular brand? That may be the way to go.
Did you make your own plate or buy a particular brand? That may be the way to go.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
The pitman arm stud will catch on the 2" ers. Ballpeen or raise the engine about a 1/4".
Mine was a Ray Barton plate, and I cut it using a friends for a pattern, so who knows if it is in the stock position. This might be why I had no steering issues. I used this plate as a pattern for the plate in the 440 Dart I did, and that one cleared everything beautifully, T-bars, steering, etc. I need to make a pattern off the plate the next time it comes out. One other thing to note, the 2" are very snug around the shifter arm on a 727. It's an excercise in patience getting a cable on and adjusted. Make secure tabs to provide plenty of air space off the headers. Changing out the cable after 3 passes because it it melted sucks. Sucks even more the second time.
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