A-body Big bolt pattern Axles ??

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Suregrip391

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Can anyone point me in a direction to buy new stock length A-body axles already made with the big bolt pattern for people doing conversions from the small bolt pattern? I see the run about $275 to $300 with Green brgs installed from like Dr. Diff and Moser and Yukon. Whats a good axle and best place to buy it? At the best price too! Thanks. :thumblef:
 
Suregrip391 said:
Can anyone point me in a direction to buy new stock length A-body axles already made with the big bolt pattern for people doing conversions from the small bolt pattern? I see the run about $275 to $300 with Green brgs installed from like Dr. Diff and Moser and Yukon. Whats a good axle and best place to buy it? At the best price too! Thanks. :thumblef:

I bought truck axles from wrecking yard and had them cut and re-splined. That may be cheapest way to go. Also depends on what your doing with car. Average street car with occasional blast should be fine. I have 2 sets done that way, 1 set in a 12 second a body mostly track car with no problems what so ever. My only issue with this is 2 different machinist's charged 2 different prices. 1 set for $100.00, 1 set for $150.00. Both sets axles cost only $25.00 from wrecking yard.
 
Just ordered a set from moser last week. I went to 11" brakes in the rear of my demon. Had to order a body length with b body offset. Cost $415 Steve
 
blackace said:
In the description it says they are Yukon axles. I might have to order a set of these.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chucker54/834reax.html

Be careful when ordering these. I've read posts elsewhere that suggest that the stock A-body brake backing plates and drums won't work correctly with them. One post (wish I could remember where I read it I'd post it hear for all to read, problem is I also read stuff on other forums) said he ordered these and they went in the A-body rear fine and produced the correct offset but I forget exactly what the problem with the brakes was but anyway he ended up switching to 11x2-1/2 " brakes before it was done to get it to fit.

All in all when he was done it was a great setup. Just alot more work than he anticipated.

If anyone can shed more light that would be great because I wouldn't mind switching to a set of these axles someday.
 
Here's the thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=8689&highlight=e-brake

Basically, you have to use the 2-1/2" brakes, either 10" or 11" because of the beefy flange design. I had planned on using 11" C-Bod brakes anyway, so no problems there.

The problem with 11" brakes "was" however the length of the e-brake cable - about an inch too short. There are two ways to fix this: 1) have a custom-made cable fabricated ($$$!), or 2) Machine the e-brake levers to accept and work properly with the shorter cable. Option 2 takes about 10-15 minutes with a hacksaw, grinder and flat file - basically zero cost. Works great. If anyone wants the specifics I'll post more details.

BTW, this DOES NOT refer to the Mancini axles referred to in the Yahoo store link above. I am talking about the Yukon axles (eBay item# 4617184782 - good stuff). Let's keep the story straight, folks.
 
fishy68 said:
Be careful when ordering these. I've read posts elsewhere that suggest that the stock A-body brake backing plates and drums won't work correctly with them. One post (wish I could remember where I read it I'd post it hear for all to read, problem is I also read stuff on other forums) said he ordered these and they went in the A-body rear fine and produced the correct offset but I forget exactly what the problem with the brakes was but anyway he ended up switching to 11x2-1/2 " brakes before it was done to get it to fit.

All in all when he was done it was a great setup. Just alot more work than he anticipated.

If anyone can shed more light that would be great because I wouldn't mind switching to a set of these axles someday.

I have Yukon's on my 67 Dart. They work fine. I used the 67 10" backing plate and a 65 B body 10" drum.
 
dart4forte said:
I have Yukon's on my 67 Dart. They work fine. I used the 67 10" backing plate and a 65 B body 10" drum.

Where did you get your's from?

I think I'm gonna contact Mancini and find out if there are any issue using these alxes.
 
i just bought a set of yukons off of ebay, very impressed. great quaility. i used a set of drums & backing plates from a 1970 challenger 10 X 2 1/4. the only problem i had was from the guy i got them from. he supplied me the green wheel bearings & moroso wheel studs. the studs will not fit, the axle hole measures .650 & the moroso press in studs are .685, which i should have known better. i did try to press one stud in, as i was assured they were right, well i have a 20-ton walker press & these were not going in. this gentleman is known as Mr. Wolfe. i have tried to contact him, with know luck. the studs he sold me cost $50.00 including frt. i went down to my local NAPA store & got a set of MR. Gasket wheel studs, part number 4311, & they fit perfect!they only cost $20.00! MR. Wolfe does offer to install the bearings & studs at an additional cost. but as far as these axles go, i have owned Moser & Strange axles, and these look as good!
 
Ace said:
Here's the thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=8689&highlight=e-brake

Basically, you have to use the 2-1/2" brakes, either 10" or 11" because of the beefy flange design. I had planned on using 11" C-Bod brakes anyway, so no problems there.

The problem with 11" brakes "was" however the length of the e-brake cable - about an inch too short. There are two ways to fix this: 1) have a custom-made cable fabricated ($$$!), or 2) Machine the e-brake levers to accept and work properly with the shorter cable. Option 2 takes about 10-15 minutes with a hacksaw, grinder and flat file - basically zero cost. Works great. If anyone wants the specifics I'll post more details.

BTW, this DOES NOT refer to the Mancini axles referred to in the Yahoo store link above. I am talking about the Yukon axles (eBay item# 4617184782 - good stuff). Let's keep the story straight, folks.

Thanks for the clarification ACE.
 
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