A body weight?

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63SplitWindow

63SplitWindow

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I'm looking to build my small block 73 Dart Sport (aka Duster) to run mid to low 10's. I'm curious as to what kind of weight I will need to get down to for a 500 HP motor?

Bill

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That calculator is wacky, by a mile!
60 ft, and 1/8th et is horribly slow for the 1/4 mile E.t. it predicts. The example I saw gave a mid eleven second equivalent 60ft, a very high 10 Second equivalent 1/8th, and a low ten 1/4. Fantasy land!
Try Wallace racing calculators. MUCH more accurate, and every kind of calculation you could want.
 
An HONEST and REAL 500 HP engine will take that car into the 10s in as delivered curb weight as long as the suspension is RIGHT.
 
Wallace says an honest 3400 lbs at the starting line, with driver weight included, and an honest, real, 500 crank hospower, should run 11.0hs. 3100, including driver should go mid-high tens.
My car went high nines/10.ohs with an honest 500hp....... but it had big slicks and weighed under 2500 with me in it, at the starting line.
 
Car has 8 3/4 rear with 4:56 gears and a 4 link setup. It's tubbed and currently has 29 x 12.5 tires, caged and a fuel cell (original tank is gone). All steel except hood. Car now weighs 2900 wet without driver.

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63SplitWindow said:
Car has 8 3/4 rear with 4:56 gears and a 4 link setup. It's tubbed and currently has 29 x 12.5 tires, caged and a fuel cell (original tank is gone). All steel except hood. Car now weighs 2900 wet without driver.

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So, if you are a deuce, and you have a real 500hp, and everything is right, set-up wise, mid tens are reachable as it sits.
 
My wife car weighs 3120 with her skinny butt. Her engine made 535 HP on the dyno. Car has been as quick as 10.60s in really good air, but typically runs 10.80-10.90s.
 
63SplitWindow said:
I'm looking to build my small block 73 Dart Sport (aka Duster) to run mid to low 10's. I'm curious as to what kind of weight I will need to get down to for a 500 HP motor?

Bill

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What fiberglass components are on the car now? (It's not real difficult any more to make another 50HP or so to reach your goals so, that may be the more practical course.) Give us some details and pics of the car 'we' could advise on things that are a high-yield bang for the buck.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well by God, an honest 500HP would make Vixen get 10s. Dammit all. lol
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Give up your dream of finding a cheap big block bell housing and slap an automatic behind that 400 under the bench and let her rip tater chip....
 
j par said:
Give up your dream of finding a cheap big block bell housing and slap an automatic behind that 400 under the bench and let her rip tater chip....
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I found one months ago, dummy.
 
RustyRatRod said:
What purpose would it serve me telling you about it had I not?
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68 Dart , fiberglass hood, bumpers and trunk lid, bench seat interior ( not gutted ) 8 pt roll bar, frame connectors , depending on motor in car ( I have 2, 367 and a 408 ) hp in the low 500s, 904, Ulitimate 8 inch converter, narrowed 8 3/4 - 4.30s or 4.88s , Wilwood disc brakes , Cal Tracs ...2,930 with out driver 3,145 with , runs high tens.. I run on a throttle stop to run 11.50s @114, with 60 fts. 1.49-1.52... footbrake

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Car is all steel (including bumpers) except for glass hood. I wonder how much weight I could lose with glass bumpers and trunk lid?......75 - 100 lbs?
 
I would presume that different dynos would give a wide range of horsepower ratings for the same engine. How do you calibrate a dyno?
 
I think some of yall disagreeing with what I said should go look at the numbers pittsburgracer just posted. 500hp will get you in the 10s.
 
Call Larry, (glassman, here and b-bodies) at sled city. He makes glass parts, I think primarily for b's. I bet he will know, exactly.
 
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