A few pics of barracuda project.

[moparmat2000]

I had to change out my trans crossmember at the beginning of the build, and install a new floorpan. Somebody cut through the crossmember with a cutting torch cutting it in half. The one i used was from a 74 dart. The marking w arrow on this pic is where the crossmember bumped out for the cable , and the round mark is where the cable hole was. I cut out the bumped out metal in that spot so the connectors reinf transition plate could sit flat, then moved the cable inboard. There is definitely enough room. I mocked it up w a speedometer cable, and a zee bar and theres plenty of room to route it inboard of the framerail. I also slotted the rear footwell to run the subframe connectors through, and seam welded the floor metal to the connector. They only stick through the floor 1/2" some extra padding on either side, floor will sit level back there. The green paint is an epoxy etch primer.

 

[Buford19]

I had to change out my trans crossmember at the beginning of the build, and install a new floorpan. Somebody cut through the crossmember with a cutting torch cutting it in half. The one i used was from a 74 dart. The marking w arrow on this pic is where the crossmember bumped out for the cable , and the round mark is where the cable hole was. I cut out the bumped out metal in that spot so the connectors reinf transition plate could sit flat, then moved the cable inboard. There is definitely enough room. I mocked it up w a speedometer cable, and a zee bar and theres plenty of room to route it inboard of the framerail. I also slotted the rear footwell to run the subframe connectors through, and seam welded the floor metal to the connector. They only stick through the floor 1/2" some extra padding on either side, floor will sit level back there. The green paint is an epoxy etch primer.

View attachment 1715179583

View attachment 1715179584

Nice work, your going to have a nice car when done. Sure is a lot of planning,that goes into these builds.

 

[moparmat2000]

I look at a lot of builds on here, and pick the ideas that suit me, or that i can mod to suit. I can honestly say i never saw another parking brake cable relocated inboard of the subframe conbector and framerail. That was my contribution i guess.

 

[Buford19]

I look at a lot of builds on here, and pick the ideas that suit me, or that i can mod to suit. I can honestly say i never saw another parking brake cable relocated inboard of the subframe conbector and framerail. That was my contribution i guess.

Yes that’s a good idea. Was thinking maybe gas lines could also be routed this way.

 

[moparmat2000]

I plan on routing my fuel and brake lines inboard of the subframe connectors. Plan on using Adel clamps to mount them directly to the connectors. Going to drill and tap the sides of the connectors for the lines. Going to cover them with insul ation where the mufflers are to prevent any boiling off issues

 

[famous bob]

I plan on routing my fuel and brake lines inboard of the subframe connectors. Plan on using Adel clamps to mount them directly to the connectors. Going to drill and tap the sides of the connectors for the lines. Going to cover them with insul ation where the mufflers are to prevent any boiling off issues

Fantastic work, but I would(did) run my gas lines outside the frame , and inside the frame for the return.

 

[moparmat2000]

Fantastic work, but I would(did) run my gas lines outside the frame , and inside the frame for the return.

I may still do that. Car is still a clean slate. I have to put the shell back on the rotisserie. Currently have engine and trans in for wiring mock up and radiator mock up. Made a really nice fan shroud w an old cotton Tshirt and fiberglass lol but thats a different thread in heating and cooling. Once shell is back on rotisserie for remaining welding work, i will be looking at how i will route my fuel and brake hard lines. I never really got a warm fuzzy with them being mounted behind the pinch welds along the rocker panel

 

[Buford19]

Fantastic work, but I would(did) run my gas lines outside the frame , and inside the frame for the return.

Why wouldn’t you run both lines in the subframe? Just asking, I would think it would be protected better this way, and cleaner.

 

[moparmat2000]

Why wouldn’t you run both lines in the subframe? Just asking, I would think it would be protected better this way, and cleaner.

Too much trouble, and if you get a leak, even more trouble. If the lines are not supported ever 1.5 to 2 feet down their length they will eventually fail from either vibration induced fatigue, or from vibration induced abrasion failure if they are touching and rubbing the inside of the framerail because they are not secured from movement. Thats the second reason the lines are secured to the frame every foot or 2 besides the fact that its an easy way to secure them.

 

[moparmat2000]

Answered your hidden lines question above. I work in aviation maintenance, fuel, oil, hydro, and electrical lines require multiple securing locations over long spans to prevent vibration induced degradation and failure. I plan on using "Adel clamp" line clamps w rubber inserts to hold the lines, and drilling and tapping holes into the sides of the subframe connectors to mount the clamps

 

[Buford19]

Answered your hidden lines question above. I work in aviation maintenance, fuel, oil, hydro, and electrical lines require multiple securing locations over long spans to prevent vibration induced degradation and failure. I plan on using "Adel clamp" line clamps w rubber inserts to hold the lines, and drilling and tapping holes into the sides of the subframe connectors to mount the clamps

View attachment 1715180256

Ok that answers my question, all make sense.

 

[Buford19]

Here my latest addition to the project.

 

[famous bob]

Ok that answers my question, all make sense.

The lines are pretty darn hard to get inside the frame and fish them up and over the rear frame rails, and out in back, thru an existing "elongated hole," behind the tank .
I couldn`t get both lines in there, one was a *****, and it is braided s/s (ptfe) . With the up and over, the grommit going in and coming out of the frame, and being a short run where its straight laying in the connectors, I am not the least bit concerned about it , there will be no movement laying in there anyway. If it were a fuel drasgster , maybe. The other feed hose is out side the frame rails w/ adel clamps on it . I ran a hemi s/stocker type car for 14 yrs done that way, and it vibrated way more than this street car. It had a 785 lift solid roller in it. The inside frame deal was an after thot, when I switched to fuel inj. and needed a return. The original posters car being on a rotisserie, would be the ideal time to plan and execute all this , mine was pretty much on a finished car setting in the garage.
A long run as in an airplane , yes I can agree w/ you, but not in a 4 ft run.

 

[moparmat2000]

Braded steel line yep, you can get away with that length inside the frame may last you 20-25 years or more. I was thinking steel hard line, and brake hard line. Also the ability to have it where it can readily be seen to inspect it when under the car. Cant do that if its hidden inside the frame. Getting nice tubing insulation where the outside is covered in a high heat compound.slide it over the lines, attach inboard of the subframe connectors. Only spots you need to really concern yourself with on the insulation is where the mufflers sit. As long as you have 8" to a foot of clearance between hot exhaust and your lines the heat from the pipes shouldent affect it. Even short runs in an aircraft are secured every 1.5 - 2 feet.

 

[brkooduh66]

a little jealous... when i did my my spring narrow kit, i was upside down and the car was right side up :/

 

[famous bob]

Braded steel line yep, you can get away with that length inside the frame may last you 20-25 years or more. I was thinking steel hard line, and brake hard line. Also the ability to have it where it can readily be seen to inspect it when under the car. Cant do that if its hidden inside the frame. Getting nice tubing insulation where the outside is covered in a high heat compound.slide it over the lines, attach inboard of the subframe connectors. Only spots you need to really concern yourself with on the insulation is where the mufflers sit. As long as you have 8" to a foot of clearance between hot exhaust and your lines the heat from the pipes shouldent affect it. Even short runs in an aircraft are secured every 1.5 - 2 feet.

NHRA WOULDN`T MUCH CARE FOR THE GAS LINES TO BE EXPOSED TO A TRANS, DRIVE SHAFT, REAR END EXPLOSION , IF THIT WERTE GOING THRU AN INSPECTION.
EVER LOST A DRIVESHAFT AT 128 MPH? A whole bunch of stuff between the frame rails get destroyed! Ask me how I know !

 

[moparmat2000]

NHRA WOULDN`T MUCH CARE FOR THE GAS LINES TO BE EXPOSED TO A TRANS, DRIVE SHAFT, REAR END EXPLOSION , IF THIT WERTE GOING THRU AN INSPECTION.
EVER LOST A DRIVESHAFT AT 128 MPH? A whole bunch of stuff between the frame rails get destroyed! Ask me how I know !

Isnt that what a driveshaft safety loop is for, plus i dont plan on drag racing it. There are plenty of ways to do this. I may concider running the lines outboard of the framerails. Not sure how i am going to run them yet. I have seen circle track guys run their lines wrapped in rubber, and put inside steel conduit tubing.

 

[famous bob]

Isnt that what a driveshaft safety loop is for, plus i dont plan on drag racing it. There are plenty of ways to do this. I may concider running the lines outboard of the framerails.

I had a safety loop on the hemi when the driveshaft came out, the biggest piece was about 10-12" long, it cut the right rear slick (14 or 16x 32, don't remember) , tore the trans mission all to hell, beat the hell out of everything under the belvedere, both u joints, floor boards, and just dam near caused the car to roll. Glad there was no gas line in there !

 

[moparmat2000]

Wow!!! That sounds pretty rough. I have heard of catastrophic failures but didnt realize they would come apart that bad. What your saying on where to run the lines makes sense. I will prob just run them outboard of the subframe connectors attached to them. They are 1/8" thick 2x3 so an exploding driveshaft probably wouldent go through those.

 

[famous bob]

I would ,

Wow!!! That sounds pretty rough. I have heard of catastrophic failures but didnt realize they would come apart that bad. What your saying on where to run the lines makes sense. I will prob just run them outboard of the subframe connectors attached to them. They are 1/8" thick 2x3 so an exploding driveshaft probably wouldent go through those.

I would, especially if on a rotisserie. I also had a very violent trans explosion, but that's another story!

 

[Buford19]

Been awhile since my last post, so busy lately. Have made some progress since then, so I will start updating parts bought and jobs completed. To start had to do some metal repairs to doors, since they don’t make skins for them.

 

[Buford19]

Here more door repair pictures.

 

[Buford19]

Epoxy primer applied on door and other parts.

 

[Buford19]

Had to remove driver side headlight bucket, in pretty rough shape.

 

[Buford19]

This light bucket had a some pass work done on it, lucky I had another one.