A few pics of barracuda project.

[Buford19]

The master cylinder opening was covered, so I can use a willwood master cylinder without using their adapter plate. Their plate dose not cover the opening fully. When the time comes I will make appropriate hole for the master cylinder. Been considering removing this portion of the fire wall where the arrow is pointing. If so I will weld a 14 gauge flat piece of metal in it place. This is just in case I use a hydraulic clutch. Hear lots of complaints that the fire wall flexing from using these. What do you think? My plan is to use mechanical linkages if they fix with the hemi.

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The area would would flat and flush if done, to give room for installation.

 

[Buford19]

Here’s some pictures of the progress I been making on the rear spoiler.

 

[Buford19]

This is just a test fit. Next I will make the right side end cap.

 

[Buford19]

If I like the out come, next I will cut the trunk lines to make the spoiler 3 pieces. Then fully weld both sides of the spoiler closed. Then prepare the car to have the spoiler fully welded back in place. Including painting inside spoiler,and area on the car that effected.

 

[Buford19]

Spoiler getting a little closer to be fully welded, and ends cap. Here a few pictures.

 

[HemiDenny]

Nice metal work

 

[famous bob]

Nice metal work

I generally don`t like rear spoilers on 67-8-9 fastbacks, but I think you may have something there. Doesn`t look too big and crazy , like some .

 

[Buford19]

I generally don`t like rear spoilers on 67-8-9 fastbacks, but I think you may have something there. Doesn`t look too big and crazy , like some .

Thanks ,I hope the final results turn out the way I pictured. Trying to make it look like part of the car not a add on.

 

[Buford19]

Nice metal work

Thanks Denny.

 

[nates68]

Hey join the club! Looks good, not to big or angled up too high. Make sure you have enough spot welds so it doesn't move anywhere and crack the filler coat of duraglass. It took me forever to grind down all the spot welds but I wanted the filler to be minimal.
I have made lots of progress and need to update my build thread.

Nates68
Project:Brutal 'cuda

 

[Buford19]

Hey join the club! Looks good, not to big or angled up too high. Make sure you have enough spot welds so it doesn't move anywhere and crack the filler coat of duraglass. It took me forever to grind down all the spot welds but I wanted the filler to be minimal.
I have made lots of progress and need to update my build thread.

Nates68
Project:Brutal 'cuda

Yes I will weld it completely to the car, want to use as little filler as possible.

 

[B'cuda]

Yes I will weld it completely to the car, want to use as little filler as possible.

Nice build, the spoiler’s a cool idea. Reading through your thread I saw a question regarding a row of holes across the back seat floor panel. Idk if you have your answer but it’s for the screws that secure the bottom of the cargo area shelf/floor. Can’t wait to see what else you come up with on your build!

 

[Buford19]

Already found the purpose of these holes, but thanks anyway. The hole seemed like they were just random, when I first seen them. Was thinking next I might shave the bumpers, getting a closer fit to the body. Also was looking at maybe front spoiler with driving lights.

 

[Buford19]

Working on reinforcing the front frame rails, and add brackets for new radiator. Made my own cross brace, to save a little money.

 

[Buford19]

Can’t believe how many spot welds on the lower factory radiator support. Think I counted 48.

 

[moparownr]

Yes where the green tape is are the seat mounting holes, the others look like mounting for rear seat belts and the rear seat retainer

 

[moparownr]

Good job on the lower radiator support!

 

[Buford19]

A couple of pics of the car progress, the spoiler and trunk in primer. Next job is to get all gaps set before I disassemble for paint. Trunk gaps are perfect. I weld some material on to achieve a even 3/16 consistent gap.

 

[moparmat2000]

I like the boxed in lower rad support as well. Great minds think alike. I did a similar job w 2x3 boxed steel, and notched out and reboxed in the notch with the piece i cut out, by flipping the cut out piece over and reinstalling it with a couple end plates. this way the radiator can sit down in there and the lower support could still tuck up in tight. Then i trimmed down the original sheetmetal lower support and fit the top of it back in, and modified the bottom of the grille and hood latch support to bolt into the new lower radiator support. And yes theres a crap ton of spotwelds holding that cheesy piece o crap in there. Dont forget your drain holes. I did mine w a 3/4" blair cutter.

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[Buford19]

I like the boxed in lower rad support as well. Great minds think alike. I did a similar job w 2x3 boxed steel, and notched out and reboxed in the notch with the piece i cut out, by flipping the cut out piece over and reinstalling it with a couple end plates. this way the radiator can sit down in there and the lower support could still tuck up in tight. Then i trimmed down the original sheetmetal lower support and fit the top of it back in. And yes theres a crap ton of spotwelds holding that cheesy piece o crap in there. Dont forget your drain holes. I did mine w a 3/4" blair cutter.

View attachment 1715179570
That a good idea, like what you have done there. Like seeing different variations of modifications, it amazes me how talented people are.
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[moparmat2000]

Thank you for the kudos. I saw yours and wanted to show you pix of what i did maybe to give you ideas on how to finish it out. I was going to just weld the side radiator support sheetmetal to the 2x3 box, and then thought i could just trim that old support , and fit it back in, so i trimmed it until the spotweld cutter holes lined back up on both sides. Then tacked it back in. Notching and reboxing the lower support its still plenty strong too. I weigh 238 lbs, and i stood on it after welding it up., it never even moved.

 

[Buford19]

Thank you for the kudos. I saw yours and wanted to show you pix of what i did maybe to give you ideas on how to finish it out. I was going to just weld the side radiator support sheetmetal to the 2x3 box, and then thought i could just trim that old support , and fit it back in, so i trimmed it until the spotweld cutter holes lined back up on both sides. Then tacked it back in. Notching and reboxing the lower support its still plenty strong too. I weigh 238 lbs, and i stood on it after welding it up., it never even moved.

Here a couple of pics, of the original brace welded back on. Hard to see with the valance on the car

 

[moparmat2000]

Looks real good. Stealthy hidden behind there. I had to notch mine for the height of the radiator i used. The stock support i had was bent up on the bottom. My new support sticks down a little lower than stock. I will fog it w black paint like the factory did.. making mount brackets for that aluminum radiator were a different story altogether though lol.

 

[Buford19]

That looks great, I like it. Are you doing any more mods to stiffing unibody?

 

[moparmat2000]

Yes. I didnt minitub this one, but i used 2x3 box steel for subframe connectors, then made my own torque boxes out of 1/8" plate like US car tool does, and bent them to fit in a metal brake i have at work. I will prob buy their upper strut tower A arm kit. Heres a pic of the torque box setup. I ran my parking cable inboard of the subframe connector so it runs parallel to the subframe connector and doesnt have to loop over it or through it. I popped a new 3/4" hole on the trans crossmember inboard of the subframe connector on the front side, but before drilling that 3/4" hole on the front side, i initially drilled a pilot hole through and out the other side of the crossmember using a 6" long drill bit so the holes on either side would line up. I then drilled a smaller hole on the back side of the trans crossmember to retain the parking brake cable spring clip that holds it in place. Bottom pic is un welded at that time. Notice the 1/8" transition plates from the subframe connector to the thinner crossmember to spread the load.