a little something for the auto-x guys

[Supershafts]

weld in sub frames,firm feel stage 3 box,1 1/4" firm feel swaybar in front and 1" in the rear, poly rear bushings, 2" drop spindles in front,custom 2" blocks in the rear.

The drop spindles are ok, but they still have the lower and upper arms at non optimal settings.
The control arm angles play a huge roll in how and where the weight is transfered to the wheel and tire, and it's effect with grip in the corner..
The big issue is making clearance for the headers so you can sit the front k member between 2" & 3" off the floor, then set the bottom out so the k member barely touches the floor.
Then lose the shackles and get sliders. Move the front of the rear spring up another 1.5 to 2"

Using solid ends on the bar vs the links with poly, and going to nylon bushings.. It'll make everything tighter and you'll feel more.
I wonder if they still make the better t-bars they used to make..
Another big improvement would be modifying the f-wall and pushing the motor back

Then hit a road course and intimidate the porsches and ferraris

 

[wracks71]

The drop spindles are ok, but they still have the lower and upper arms at non optimal settings.
The control arm angles play a huge roll in how and where the weight is transfered to the wheel and tire, and it's effect with grip in the corner..
The big issue is making clearance for the headers so you can sit the front k member between 2" & 3" off the floor, then set the bottom out so the k member barely touches the floor.
Then lose the shackles and get sliders. Move the front of the rear spring up another 1.5 to 2"

Using solid ends on the bar vs the links with poly, and going to nylon bushings.. It'll make everything tighter and you'll feel more.
I wonder if they still make the better t-bars they used to make..
Another big improvement would be modifying the f-wall and pushing the motor back

Then hit a road course and intimidate the porsches and ferraris

ok. number 1,i am not building a full honk race car. i have polly bushings in the rear and i can't go lower because the tires will hit without major bodywork. i plan to run firm feel upper arms.
i am about to start on a car for full honk road racing and maybe intimidate some porsches!

 

[mopardude318]

ok. number 1,i am not building a full honk race car. i have polly bushings in the rear and i can't go lower because the tires will hit without major bodywork. i plan to run firm feel upper arms.
i am about to start on a car for full honk road racing and maybe intimidate some porsches!

Question for wracks71 or autoxcuda steve, speaking of building a full tilt road racing car, what class would you be placed in if someone was running the complete RMS front and rear suspension system? is that like full modified, and is it worth competing in to that extent? please school me.

 

[autoxcuda]

Question for wracks71 or autoxcuda steve, speaking of building a full tilt road racing car, what class would you be placed in if someone was running the complete RMS front and rear suspension system? is that like full modified, and is it worth competing in to that extent? please school me.

In SCCA Solo II autocross, you will be put in C-prepared class. Those cars run 10" wide or 12" max wide rim depending on classification for your car. I think it's 12" for a 68 Barracuda, but check the solo II rules online about that.

That sort of solves your bad front fender issue. Just flare or cut them for wide tire clearance.

I have a picture of a 67 Baracuda C-Prepared car. But not on this computer.

 

[mopardude318]

In SCCA Solo II autocross, you will be put in C-prepared class. Those cars run 10" wide or 12" max wide rim depending on classification for your car. I think it's 12" for a 68 Barracuda, but check the solo II rules online about that.

That sort of solves your bad front fender issue. Just flare or cut them for wide tire clearance.

I have a picture of a 67 Baracuda C-Prepared car. But not on this computer.

Okay...Thanks for the info...I'll look some more up online. A few pics of that C-prepped car would be cool...What sorts of mods do they have? The RMS like I mentioned? XV stuff? Or a whole bunch of custom made stuff? Any factory suspension designs?

 

[autoxcuda]

Okay...Thanks for the info...I'll look some more up online. A few pics of that C-prepped car would be cool...What sorts of mods do they have? The RMS like I mentioned? XV stuff? Or a whole bunch of custom made stuff? Any factory suspension designs?

No one is competively running an aftermarket Mopar front end in CPrepared.

That C-prepared 67 Cuda runs a stock front clip with T-bars

The red AAR below won a SCCA autocross national championship. It runs a fabricated front end with coilovers from the firewall forward. It's custom made by a very well known and regarded autocross chassis builder. It's a more involved deal than the XV or RMS. The billet aluminum spindles though were made by the owner.

The AAR is the red car on the left.

 

[wracks71]

Question for wracks71 or autoxcuda steve, speaking of building a full tilt road racing car, what class would you be placed in if someone was running the complete RMS front and rear suspension system? is that like full modified, and is it worth competing in to that extent? please school me.

to be honest,i really don't care! i know how i want the car built and what i want it to do,the rest doesn't matter. i will try to keep up with the guys that i fall with. i love a challenge! lol!

hey autoxcuda,nice pics and thanks. i would love to check out some of these cars in person!

 

[mopardude318]

Very cool. Thank you guys for all the info! Keep us updated wracks!

 

[wracks71]

Very cool. Thank you guys for all the info! Keep us updated wracks!

i will! if anyone is close to pigeon forge,tn on sept.18th come by the smokey's stadium and watch us run. pro-touring.com has its run through the hills event that day. alot of big name car builders are usually there.