A roll cage pic and question

[Eric_S68]

Hi All, I'm trying to figure out if my main (roof) hoop to my 10 point cage is positioned properly Height wise..... I'm thinking that the hoop is too wide and therefore I cannot "tuck" it up any higher/tighter into the roof area. (Which I also think will look better.) Here's two pics. Let me know what you think.. Thanks !

 

[RedlineDuster]

I won't claim to be an expert but I would think you'd want it higher. In a roll over the roof will most likely collapse down to the hoop. if you head/helmet is above the hoop it could result in a back injury at best.
J

 

[krabysniper]

Are you planing to run sanctioned events, if so, you better get a rule book and read it, that looks very low to where it should be, the NHRA rule book will give an specific range that your halo bar should sit at in relation to the drivers head and shoulders.

 

[Guitar Jones]

Did you buy a prebent kit from somewhere? And if you did who did you buy it from?

It looks too wide to me. The problem is you can't section it according to the rules, it has to be one continuous piece that's why I asked if you bought a kit. I'm going to put a 12 or 14 point cage in my car so I'd like to know who not to buy it from.

 

[moper]

Did you buy a prebent kit from somewhere? And if you did who did you buy it from?

It looks too wide to me. The problem is you can't section it according to the rules, it has to be one continuous piece that's why I asked if you bought a kit.





That's exactly what I was thinking. My feeling is, the bar needs to be narrower, and would fit tighter to the roof if it had 2 smaller bends near the ends. You want it tucked away, because your helmet adds 2-3" to your head. If your tall (I'm 6' and it happens to me in some cars..) your helmet gets awefullly close to that bar. Try looking out the window at the starter or something, and you whack your head. Padding makes it even worse. a nice cage really makes it comfortable.

 

[Eric_S68]

Hey all!! Thanks for the input. I knew that just didnt look right :sign6: . I bought the kit from Chassis Engineering (10 point) .The reason I bought it from them is that they are only 70 or so miles from me and I saved on shipping by picking it up. Since I've 1st posted this I have been on the phone with them and they are going to bend a new roof bar for me (To my measurements) and even give me new front bars as well, since I cut mine. All no charge...So I give em' A+ for customer service.

Guitar Jones.... As for buying a cage...The only BENT pieces are the Main Hoop, Roof hoop and for a 12 or 14 point the front frame rail bars. Everything else is straight tubing... So, I would suggest just buying it "locally" and save the shipping. A any competent shop with a tubing bender should be able to get it done for you. PS You'll need 2 long (7-8'or so) straight tubes if you want the rear "down tubes" to reach all the way into the trunk area. I dont think that will come standard in a "Kit" Ask before you buy... Ask, How I know

KrabbySniper Yes, I have the 06' NHRA Rule Book. Last thing I wanna do is, not pass Tech at the track!! :headbang:

 

[Guitar Jones]

Yeah I'm down with that, I already have an 8 point bar in the car with the rear struts extending all the way to the rear of the trunk. I'm going to back half the car this winter so I wanted to go with the whole 1 5/8 tube with a cage instead of adding it to the 1 3/4 bars already there.

Your post got me thinking and looking at some cars at the track today and the best ones seemed to have two main bars extending forward from the main hoop along the roof rail and down the A pillars. Another bar welded across the windshield roof line with some slight bends on both ends to tuck the bar up into the roof. This seems like a better idea than bending a hoop to fit in there.

 

[Eric_S68]

Your post got me thinking and looking at some cars at the track today and the best ones seemed to have two main bars extending forward from the main hoop along the roof rail and down the A pillars. Another bar welded across the windshield roof line with some slight bends on both ends to tuck the bar up into the roof. This seems like a better idea than bending a hoop to fit in there.

I like that idea too, but how would you weld that windshield bar all the way around? I think doing it that way would probably look nicer, but much harder to do.

 

[krabysniper]

"Last thing I wanna do is, not pass Tech at the track!!"

No doubt, especially that kind of not passing tech that costs $,$$$'s!

"how would you weld that windshield bar all the way around"

Depends on the car and the bars your installing. Generally better done in a car that is being back half'd or gutted to the firewall (where you have the floor cut out completely), so that you can tack the bars together and then drop them down to access the top portion of the welds, also helps to have the windshield out (really should take all glass out if your doing any welding in the drivers compratment for a cage).

Ask me how I know all this.

 

[Guitar Jones]

A good fabricator can get in there with a TIG, there seemed to be enough room because of the bends on the ends.

 

[moper]

I use cardboard around everything, and try to get it done like krabysniper, by lowering the cage down tubes thru the floor. Sheet metal can still transmit heat thru it, so stuff can melt if you're too close. Cardboard's easy to tear out fast if you need to...lol. That's how the really tight fitting cages get done.

 

[75dartssport]

Are you welding it to plates or frame?? I had my hoop similar to yours.. You have to be 6" away from your helmet.. But if you are useing plates cut the holes in the floor and drop the assembly down so you can weld the tops then jack it up the meet the roof(maybe leave a little gap) then cut and weld yer bars and plate it up.. I got some pics Ill TRY to attach one or 2.. So actually your hoop is ok IF you other bars will fit with hassle..

 

[Eric_S68]

Here's some pic's of the new roof hoop ..42" wide instead of 44" Much nicer fit don't ya think?

75dartsport, I'm using 6"x6" Plates except for the main hoop. I made Outriggers welded to the sub frame for that. Far as I read that 6" is only from the main hoop not from the side.

 

[drjay0]

Much better. Here is a pic of my Brother in laws Duster for reference. With the tinted front windshielf you cannot see the hoop at all.