A833 OD swap - Clutch fork

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CMKirk

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Hopefully my last post looking for info on my A833 OD swap for my '65 Dart /6.

I have the correct bellhousing for the A833 OD transmission with the correct size hole (5 1/4" IIRC) for the larger pilot bearing retainer on the OD gearbox. I'm aware that I'll
have to fabricate a mount for the Z bar pivot ball on the bellhousing side, as the bolt holes for the pivot ball mount are different on the OD bellhousing.

The OD bellhousing has a ball pivot for the clutch fork (see pic). The original /6 bellhousing has tab retainer type for the clutch fork pivot (see pic).

What are my options for a clutch fork, understanding that the A body uses a short (about 11") clutch fork, and all ball-pivot forks I've seen are longer (about 12 1/2").

I'm aware that Brewers offers a bolt-on tab-type mount for the OD bellhousing. To use that, I'd have to drill and tap 2 mounting holes in the bellhousing because the OD bellhousing only has 1
tapped hole for the pivot ball. I'm not sure that the OD bellhousing has enough "meat" to provide a strong mount for the pivot, please enlighten me if you know.

I'm comfortable welding, so I could cut and shorten a ball pivot fork. Anyone ever done that?

Is there such a thing as a short ball pivot clutch fork?

I'd appreciate any insight that anyone can give me...

Thank you.

Chris

20241229_134326_resized.jpg


20241229_134312_resized.jpg
 
CMKirk said:
Hopefully my last post looking for info on my A833 OD swap for my '65 Dart /6.

I have the correct bellhousing for the A833 OD transmission with the correct size hole (5 1/4" IIRC) for the larger pilot bearing retainer on the OD gearbox. I'm aware that I'll
have to fabricate a mount for the Z bar pivot ball on the bellhousing side, as the bolt holes for the pivot ball mount are different on the OD bellhousing.

The OD bellhousing has a ball pivot for the clutch fork (see pic). The original /6 bellhousing has tab retainer type for the clutch fork pivot (see pic).

What are my options for a clutch fork, understanding that the A body uses a short (about 11") clutch fork, and all ball-pivot forks I've seen are longer (about 12 1/2").

I'm aware that Brewers offers a bolt-on tab-type mount for the OD bellhousing. To use that, I'd have to drill and tap 2 mounting holes in the bellhousing because the OD bellhousing only has 1
tapped hole for the pivot ball. I'm not sure that the OD bellhousing has enough "meat" to provide a strong mount for the pivot, please enlighten me if you know.

I'm comfortable welding, so I could cut and shorten a ball pivot fork. Anyone ever done that?

Is there such a thing as a short ball pivot clutch fork?

I'd appreciate any insight that anyone can give me...

Thank you.

Chris

View attachment 1716347431

View attachment 1716347432
Click to expand...
It looks to me just eyeballing it that the bell housings are the same thickness. Can you not remove the ball and grind off the mount and drill your second hole and mount your tab? Or other than cut your ball and weld it, have a machine shop build one to your desired length. Or another option,take your bell housing to a machine shop and have them bore it to fit the pilot retainer.
 
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CMKirk said:
Hopefully my last post looking for info on my A833 OD swap for my '65 Dart /6.

I have the correct bellhousing for the A833 OD transmission with the correct size hole (5 1/4" IIRC) for the larger pilot bearing retainer on the OD gearbox. I'm aware that I'll
have to fabricate a mount for the Z bar pivot ball on the bellhousing side, as the bolt holes for the pivot ball mount are different on the OD bellhousing.

The OD bellhousing has a ball pivot for the clutch fork (see pic). The original /6 bellhousing has tab retainer type for the clutch fork pivot (see pic).

What are my options for a clutch fork, understanding that the A body uses a short (about 11") clutch fork, and all ball-pivot forks I've seen are longer (about 12 1/2").

I'm aware that Brewers offers a bolt-on tab-type mount for the OD bellhousing. To use that, I'd have to drill and tap 2 mounting holes in the bellhousing because the OD bellhousing only has 1
tapped hole for the pivot ball. I'm not sure that the OD bellhousing has enough "meat" to provide a strong mount for the pivot, please enlighten me if you know.

I'm comfortable welding, so I could cut and shorten a ball pivot fork. Anyone ever done that?

Is there such a thing as a short ball pivot clutch fork?

I'd appreciate any insight that anyone can give me...

Thank you.

Chris

View attachment 1716347431

View attachment 1716347432
Click to expand...
Sorry, what you have is a bellhousing that is correct for a '81-'86 truck application, not a car. There was no ball stud linkage made that will work in a car without cutting and welding.
What you should have is the #3743643 bellhousing for '76-'80 overdrive F bodies and trucks, which has the correct pivot bracket.
If you insist on trying to use your current bellhousing, then as you mentioned cutting & welding the fork or grinding and drilling the bellhousing for the proper pivot are your only options. Personally, between those two options, I'd drill & mount the correct pivot and use the known correct fork. Just be sure to make very careful measurements so the bracket is in the exactly correct spot. You may have to grind away part or all of the stud pivot boss to gain full movement of the new arm/bracket, but that will render the bellhousing junk if it doesn't work out.
 
Treed by Prof Fate. I was thinking ypu have truck OD and car OD stuff mixed together. I have a truck OD and a car OD loose in the shop at the moment, I can get pics and measurements later today if the honeydo gods grant the time. I agree with the professor about geometry issues getting the truck stuff to work.

Another thought, perhaps going to a hydraulic clutch and throwout instead?
 
Another point to consider.
IF your trans and bellhousing were purchased as a set, you could very well have the truck transmission also- which is a long tailshaft OD that will mount the shifter in a non-original location. Not an insurmountable situation, just more cobble issues to deal with.
 
Professor Fate said:
Sorry, what you have is a bellhousing that is correct for a '81-'86 truck application, not a car. There was no ball stud linkage made that will work in a car without cutting and welding.
What you should have is the #3743643 bellhousing for '76-'80 overdrive F bodies and trucks, which has the correct pivot bracket.
If you insist on trying to use your current bellhousing, then as you mentioned cutting & welding the fork or grinding and drilling the bellhousing for the proper pivot are your only options. Personally, between those two options, I'd drill & mount the correct pivot and use the known correct fork. Just be sure to make very careful measurements so the bracket is in the exactly correct spot. You may have to grind away part or all of the stud pivot boss to gain full movement of the new arm/bracket, but that will render the bellhousing junk if it doesn't work out.
Click to expand...
Prof Fate: Thx for the info. Great! (sarcasm). I thought I was all set with the correct parts. Guess not. At this point, I'm going to try to locate the correct bellhousing. Barring that, I have a Bridgeport milling machine/mig welder/lathe so I COULD make the modifications to the truck bellhousing, but I'd rather not. Off to post in the Parts Wanted section, I guess...
 
Professor Fate said:
Another point to consider.
IF your trans and bellhousing were purchased as a set, you could very well have the truck transmission also- which is a long tailshaft OD that will mount the shifter in a non-original location. Not an insurmountable situation, just more cobble issues to deal with.
Click to expand...
I made sure to look up the differences between the 2 tailshafts, and I confirmed that I have a short tailshaft.
 
halfafish said:
Treed by Prof Fate. I was thinking ypu have truck OD and car OD stuff mixed together. I have a truck OD and a car OD loose in the shop at the moment, I can get pics and measurements later today if the honeydo gods grant the time. I agree with the professor about geometry issues getting the truck stuff to work.

Another thought, perhaps going to a hydraulic clutch and throwout instead?
Click to expand...
Halfafish - If you could look (hopefully find) correct bellhousing, I'd definitely be interested in it if you're willing to let it go. If not, measurements would be helpful.

Thanks!
 
CMKirk said:
Prof Fate: Thx for the info. Great! (sarcasm). I thought I was all set with the correct parts. Guess not. At this point, I'm going to try to locate the correct bellhousing. Barring that, I have a Bridgeport milling machine/mig welder/lathe so I COULD make the modifications to the truck bellhousing, but I'd rather not. Off to post in the Parts Wanted section, I guess...
Click to expand...
If that fails, it appears that Brewer's has at least one in stock.
1976-80 SLANT SIX 9.5" BELLHOUSING, DODGE TRUCK, A/F BODY, OVERDRIVE, RECONDITIONED - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists
 
IIRC, the location of the inner z-bar mount is also different, and guys are having a hard time marrying that BH to an early A-body.
I have a V8 F-body bell with a correct bolt-on inboard-bracket for a 68 Barracuda, that I am using with a 65 Commando trans, and an adapter ring installed for the smaller retainer. So I know it can be done. I also have converted the Commando short tail, to a long-tail and put the shifter in a custom location, about 7 inches back between the buckets, up against my thigh, and I raised it high enough to install the top shifter bolt from inside the cabin. and then I installed a really short shifter.
badabing, no more knuckles in the dash.
Good luck.

IMHO, Brewers price is more than fair, for a product known to work, and ready to ship, and you already have a customer for the current one..
 
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Professor Fate said:
If that fails, it appears that Brewer's has at least one in stock.
1976-80 SLANT SIX 9.5" BELLHOUSING, DODGE TRUCK, A/F BODY, OVERDRIVE, RECONDITIONED - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists
Click to expand...
Thanks. Way more than I wanted to spend, but I guess it can be my last resort solution...
halfafish said:
That's about what they go for around here. I'll get more info when I get home.
Click to expand...
If that's what I need to spend, so be it...
 
Professor Fate said:
Sorry, what you have is a bellhousing that is correct for a '81-'86 truck application, not a car. There was no ball stud linkage made that will work in a car without cutting and welding.
What you should have is the #3743643 bellhousing for '76-'80 overdrive F bodies and trucks, which has the correct pivot bracket.
If you insist on trying to use your current bellhousing, then as you mentioned cutting & welding the fork or grinding and drilling the bellhousing for the proper pivot are your only options. Personally, between those two options, I'd drill & mount the correct pivot and use the known correct fork. Just be sure to make very careful measurements so the bracket is in the exactly correct spot. You may have to grind away part or all of the stud pivot boss to gain full movement of the new arm/bracket, but that will render the bellhousing junk if it doesn't work out.
Click to expand...
Ok, I managed to chase down the correct bellhousing, #3743643.

Next question - Can I use the original clutch fork? I mounted a /6 clutch fork in the bellhousing, and it doesn't seem like it reaches far enough to come in full contact with the throw out bearing.

The clutch fork is 10 7/8" long. Brewer's shows this bellhousing on their website, but it doesn't give a part number for the proper clutch fork, only the pivot.

Am I now on the hunt for another fork?

20250106_191832_resized.jpg
 
CMKirk said:
Ok, I managed to chase down the correct bellhousing, #3743643.

Next question - Can I use the original clutch fork? I mounted a /6 clutch fork in the bellhousing, and it doesn't seem like it reaches far enough to come in full contact with the throw out bearing.

The clutch fork is 10 7/8" long. Brewer's shows this bellhousing on their website, but it doesn't give a part number for the proper clutch fork, only the pivot.

Am I now on the hunt for another fork?

View attachment 1716349222
Click to expand...
If you have a spare pilot shaft, bolt it together/minus the transmission and see what it looks like
 
CMKirk said:
Ok, I managed to chase down the correct bellhousing, #3743643.

Next question - Can I use the original clutch fork? I mounted a /6 clutch fork in the bellhousing, and it doesn't seem like it reaches far enough to come in full contact with the throw out bearing.

The clutch fork is 10 7/8" long. Brewer's shows this bellhousing on their website, but it doesn't give a part number for the proper clutch fork, only the pivot.

Am I now on the hunt for another fork?

View attachment 1716349222
Click to expand...
Sounds like the right fork but you need this pivot

6CC0C32F-3E4A-448F-A429-D2BE444774AB.png
 
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