A833 Transmission leaking at reverse light switch

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Frnknsteen

Frnknsteen

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Hi Guys,

I had my car on the lift recently and noticed quite a bit of gear lube on the bottom of the transmission and around the inspection cover. I pulled the inspection cover to look inside the bell-housing to see where it might be coming from and it was completely clean and dry in there.

Further inspection revealed that it looks to be coming out the reverse light switch. Is that common? Seems kind of strange, but all the fluid seems to lead right to there and there is no fluid on the case anywhere above that switch.

I plan to order a new switch and swap it out to see if that takes care of it. Please let me know if any of you have seen that.
 
Oh yea it happens, and if I remember correctly there are two different type (long/short) and the wrong one can jamb up reverse.
 
Reverse is working fine. I just got this car last fall and the previous owner didn't even have it hooked up. I think he was having a hard time finding the reverse light housings because they covered them over before painting the car. He gave me a set of the lights with the car, so apparently he did eventually find them, but the holes need to be opened back up and tie them back into the wiring.

Sounds like I would be better off to pull the one I have out to see which one it is before ordering if there are two different options. I wonder what determines which length is needed? Year of the transmission?
 
that is a common problem. contact Brewers or passon performance, they will have what you need.
and they are great folks.
 
Frnknsteen said:
Reverse is working fine. I just got this car last fall and the previous owner didn't even have it hooked up. I think he was having a hard time finding the reverse light housings because they covered them over before painting the car. He gave me a set of the lights with the car, so apparently he did eventually find them, but the holes need to be opened back up and tie them back into the wiring.

Sounds like I would be better off to pull the one I have out to see which one it is before ordering if there are two different options. I wonder what determines which length is needed? Year of the transmission?
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Always pull the part and bring it in for comparison. It sounds more like the seal then the part being broken? You may just need a little Rubber seal or a little RTV?
 
I would have to clean it off and watch it to be sure, but it appears to be coming out the very end where the two contactors exit the plastic center of the switch.

I will check into getting a new one. I've dealt with Brewer's before for other parts so I can just check with them.

Thanks guys!!
 
Frnknsteen said:
I would have to clean it off and watch it to be sure, but it appears to be coming out the very end where the two contactors exit the plastic center of the switch.

I will check into getting a new one. I've dealt with Brewer's before for other parts so I can just check with them.

Thanks guys!!
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Tried calling your local parts store for it?
 
Frnknsteen said:
but it appears to be coming out the very end where the two contactors exit the plastic center of the switch.

Thanks guys!!
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Which is also common, even on the backup lights/neutral safety switchs on automatics.
 
j par said:
Tried calling your local parts store for it?
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I haven't yet. I may swing over to Napa after work and see if they have them. I did pop onto Rockauto and they have them for something like $9.45. If I can get it local I will do that so I don't have to wait and can get it taken care of right away.
 
Frnknsteen said:
I haven't yet. I may swing over to Napa after work and see if they have them. I did pop onto Rockauto and they have them for something like $9.45. If I can get it local I will do that so I don't have to wait and can get it taken care of right away.
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9.95 is a good price it looks like I think Brewer's was saying like 21 something and of course plus shipping. I absolutely love Brewers for all their technical support and the parts that they Supply. But once in awhile you can get a couple things just here locally some seals and things so it could be a possibility to be able to pick this up from a parts store. Or if it's just the little Rubber seal that can be replaced easily but you mentioned something coming from The Middle and that could be a different story.
 
I checked Napaonline and they have them too. There's appear to have the same picture as the RockAuto picture, but theirs are 13.99.

I agree,... if I can get it local, I will do that.
 
I found I had the wrong length switch on one job. Cure was a thicker Power Valve gasket was just the right thickness.
 
Local parts store had them in their warehouse and it will be in today. I will pick it up and swap them out after work today. Hopefully that does it and nothing else is leaking.
 
let us know how that does - similar issue here..you gotta drain all the fluid out first, right?
 
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I got the new switch last night. I didn't drain all the fluid. The switch has an O-ring seal on it. I took out the old one and put the new one in quickly. Didn't lose much lube in the time it took to switch them. Maybe half a cup. I checked the fluid and it barely moved. It's just below the fill hole.

But,.... While working on cleaning things up and putting the inspection plate back on, my hand brushed against the passenger side header flange and it was wet. I just started seeing a little antifreeze puddle under the car, but didn't see anything leaking up front. From what I can tell, it is coming from the back outer corner of the head on the passenger side and dripping down onto the headers and running down.

Guess I need to dig into that now and figure out what is going on. It almost looks like it's coming off the header flange. Does anyone know if the exhaust bolts go into the water passage on 906 heads? I will post over on the exhaust section too. Maybe I have a loose header bolt and it is allowing it to seep out slowly.
 
thanks for follow- up - someone here should have info on bolt question.. good luck with it
 
Dave NEO said:
thanks for follow- up - someone here should have info on bolt question.. good luck with it
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Got some replies from the other thread I started on the antifreeze leak. Turns out the header bolts DO go into the water passages on the outer corners. I plan to pull the bolt where it is leaking and wrap it in Teflon tape and put it back in to see if it seals it up. May do the other four corners as well just to be safe, but would hate to take a chance of more leaks by messing with the ones that aren't leaking. Think I will stick to this one and go from there.
 
For the record, a new off the shelf reverse light switch leaked immediately ( through the solid state center/contacts, not at external threads) I'm contacting Brewers
 
I8NEMO said:
For the record, a new off the shelf reverse light switch leaked immediately ( through the solid state center/contacts, not at external threads) I'm contacting Brewers
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Auto shop 101.. Because it's new doesn't mean it works...
 
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Frnknsteen said:
I would have to clean it off and watch it to be sure, but it appears to be coming out the very end where the two contactors exit the plastic center of the switch.
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Yes this is very common and every new one I ever bought from the dealer also leaked there.
Here is the cure;
you will need a spraycan of Brakleen, a package of two-part epoxy( JB-Weld is ok ) compressed air, and a bench vise.
1) clean the outside
2) clamp the switch in in a vise, contacts down, depress the ball, then spray the Brakleen in behind the ball, then blow it out with the compressed air.
3) repeat steps 1 and 2, until you are sure the bases of the contacts are free of oil.
4) the leak points are around the bases of the contacts, and also where that black whatever it is, is crimped into the metal housing. So clean it all real good.
5) mix up your epoxy, and cover all that black stuff, Work it into the openings around the contacts, and into the perimeter crimp, as best as you can; then put a good thick layer over the entire base to a depth of about 1/8 th inch, including over/around/and down the outer crimp. Clean the contacts as may be required. 6) let it harden; then reinstall it, and forget it.


Just so you know, I have repaired numerous of these factory switches in the same way, including ones in the which, that black part was broken and/or with physical parts missing. It works every time; and I have never had a comeback.
 
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