Aar cuda & R/T metering valve drum/disc

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Markuscurillious

Markuscurillious

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Can someone explain this to me...why would rear m/c be powering front breaks


I’m putting it on a 73 scamp

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On a disc master cylinder, the rear section is the larger reservoir. Discs eventually displace a larger amount of fluid as the pads wear. That looks like an annoyingly complex setup for an older master cylinder? Later cars had combination valve and metering valve in one.
 
I can't explain it, but I'm sure I bought that same metering valve when I did my 4 wheel disk conversion,
but I removed the smaller metering valve and just used the main metering valve. My car stops just fine, the brakes are strong (power assisted). Probably not the proper way of doing but it's worked so far and car has been driven just over 3000 miles since the restoration.

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Well that hold off valve is so the fronts get liquid before the backs idk if the last picture (the diagram) is just backwards and upside down or what but still boggles me that they want the..ohhh well they could of explained it differently like residual marked (f) would of sufficed but I’ve been having rear wheels lock up before front discs engage so hopefuly this will help the original (tree) proportioning valve is just like this but stopped rather shittly so hopefuly this hold off valve will let the front discs enguage better
 
I have never had the rears lock up on me, but I'm also running 18 x 10 wheels on the back that might be preventing that from happening.
 
Yeah I have no idea I took the valve out and checked it everything worked fine some light scratches inside but nothing major. So I bought the one with the hold off valve so hopefuly this will make it stop better your car and mine aren’t too different...I mean if this doesn’t work I’ve ran out of problems to fix
 
Dragonsteel said:
I can't explain it, but I'm sure I bought that same metering valve when I did my 4 wheel disk conversion,
but I removed the smaller metering valve and just used the main metering valve. My car stops just fine, the brakes are strong (power assisted). Probably not the proper way of doing but it's worked so far and car has been driven just over 3000 miles since the restoration.
Click to expand...

Have you tried testing them in a parking lot? Get up to 30 - 40 mph and lock them up. See what happens cause you don't want to find out the hard way on the highway .JMO
 
It is because the front brakes are the primary side of the brake system they provide the most stopping power therefor they must be closest to the brake pedal. It's a safety engineering thing.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Have you tried testing them in a parking lot? Get up to 30 - 40 mph and lock them up. See what happens cause you don't want to find out the hard way on the highway .JMO
Click to expand...
Well I have hauled it down from a few 100mph drag races with no issues. Had to stomp on it hard a time or two to avoid running red lights never had a lock up yet. I can't say that I have just flat out tried to lock them, so it's possible I guess, but it's never put a doubt or worry in my mind that it would lock up.
 
The lock up test is just to confirm fronts lock up 1st. If they don't you can add an adjustable proportional valve in rear line. I know when fronts lock 1st you will lose steering but if rears lock 1st you can spin out.
 
Kendog 170 said:
The lock up test is just to confirm fronts lock up 1st. If they don't you can add an adjustable proportional valve in rear line. I know when fronts lock 1st you will lose steering but if rears lock 1st you can spin out.
Click to expand...

Yeah I got the one with the hold off valve seems it would drop better to me
 
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