Action Plus vs ......... any gains?

[Locomotion]

You can increase your mph and lower your et by increasing your rollout. Get a 15" front wheel and a larger diameter tire. Run the max air pressure on the sidewall. Stage very, very shallow. On the rear with a street tire run as much air pressure as you can and still hook. If you have drum brakes back the adjusters off a hair.

Good advice, but one error and an added note: Despite increasing the tire diameter a bit, going up on front tire pressure actually quickens RT's because it will "lift" the tire up in the staging beams and reduce the "flat footprint" that the beams actually see. So a taller tire will take longer to leave the beams and give more rollout, but less pressure will keep the tire in the beans longer. (i.e.: Measure across the tire 3" from the ground. Let most of the air out and measure again.)

The down side of increased rollout is that it slows reaction times. (As long as you stage in exactly the same spot.) So if you want slightly faster ETs, stage shallow with tall tires and moderate pressures. If you need to adjust RT's to be faster, use shorter tires, higher pressures and/or stage deeper (bump in).

As for the Action Plus, I'm pretty sure that internally it's the same as the Stealth. The carb mounting flange is just machined differently.

 

[318willrun]

I would get the lighter wheels , way before I`d try an x pipe. Bet u wouldn`t gain .003 w/ the x , and only could tell w/ a-b-a tests on the same day. 2:94 gear is about as far from performance as u can get too.

So you are saying my 2.45's are off the performance charts? I may "UPGRADE" to 2.94's sometime ... . Right now it's like racing a powerglide! I can cross the line in 2nd gear, or shift to 3rd a just before crossing the finish. Didn't seem to change the E.T. either way.

You know, all the years I've been going to the track with so many different projects, I've never tried the X or H pipes to see for myself what the gains would be. Some folks just are jumping for joy over them. Your remarks are interesting about them.

 

[famous bob]

So you are saying my 2.45's are off the performance charts? I may "UPGRADE" to 2.94's sometime ... . Right now it's like racing a powerglide! I can cross the line in 2nd gear, or shift to 3rd a just before crossing the finish. Didn't seem to change the E.T. either way.

You know, all the years I've been going to the track with so many different projects, I've never tried the X or H pipes to see for myself what the gains would be. Some folks just are jumping for joy over them. Your remarks are interesting about them.

In my case, they aren`t worth their weight . And especially the trouble. I did testing of my own on a 406 sbc that had approx. 600 horses. The full length 3" tailpipes were also a big restriction, versus dumped in front of the axle turn downs.Even if u have a low h.p. restricted exhaust system, I don`t believe they are worth the trouble to change to. U cold get more for ur $ elsewhere.

 

[12many]

So, your vote is the Action Plus is as good as any right now? I fully understand as the need of the engine rises, the need for a better intake also rises, but in it's current state you think a stealth or RPM would do anything in my favor???

The Action+ can use quite a bit of smoothing and contouring of all corners, plenum roof at carb turn, plenum into runners, runner roofs at port exits, etc without getting into actual runner or plenum enlargement. Theres plenty of areas to apply intake porting basics to one ootb. Here's one example of these intakes with some work done.

 

[318willrun]

The Action+ can use quite a bit of smoothing and contouring of all corners, plenum roof at carb turn, plenum into runners, runner roofs at port exits, etc without getting into actual runner or plenum enlargement. Theres plenty of areas to apply intake porting basics to one ootb. Here's one example of these intakes with some work done.

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Was this something that you could tell the difference by the "seat of your pants" or E.T. slip?

 

[12many]

Was this something that you could tell the difference by the "seat of your pants" or E.T. slip?

Still breaking in the motor, it's all new and replaced a slant six. I just worked on the basics like rounding and smoothing, something I would do to any intake. How much an improvement afterwards in my case is unknown.

 

[chrispy1971gtx]

On the x-pipe not gaining....I wouldn't be so sure on that. I talked to Frank Remlington, who runs the PurestockDrags (blue 340 GTS), and he specifically told me that adding the X-pipe and a full mandrel bent dual exhaust (2.5) made a big difference in his times.

 

[Locomotion]

On the x-pipe not gaining....I wouldn't be so sure on that. I talked to Frank Remlington, who runs the PurestockDrags (blue 340 GTS), and he specifically told me that adding the X-pipe and a full mandrel bent dual exhaust (2.5) made a big difference in his times.

I'm in favor of X-pipes, but it boils down to the combo and carb tuning to get the most out of it. With my TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step headers I added a 3" X-pipe with straight through Dynomax mufflers on my Dart Sport and it picked up a bit, but I don't recall the exact numbers. It liked slightly smaller jets afterwards from what I had in it (on my particular combo). I kept it on despite the pain of having to remove it for trans swaps, it reduced the clearance around the driveshaft and differential and I had to take out the extra 60+ lbs that it added to get the car back down closer to minimum race weight spec.

As for porting, any smoothing/clean-up should help, but don't expect big gains. Knowing what and where to "port" is always important. With any 2.xx or low 3.xx gears, you need torque and air velocity.

If you like to experiment and can tune a carb, also consider trying straight 4 hole or tapered 4 hole spacers . I also tried a Stealth once and found that it ran better with jets at least 2 numbers higher on the deeper plenum side (or 2 #'s lower on the shallow side, or split the difference between the two, depending how you're jetted now). But for my particular race combo, it still wasn't faster than the single plane Holley Strip Dominator I run.

 

[crackedback]

So, your vote is the Action Plus is as good as any right now? I fully understand as the need of the engine rises, the need for a better intake also rises, but in it's current state you think a stealth or RPM would do anything in my favor???

Probably not enough if it did make a difference to notice.

 

[mderoy340]

Thanks for the reply. I have no wheel spin at the track, so I doubt a slick would help. I want to run it in street form anyways, and I may need a DOT drag radial in the future, but right now I leave full throttle and no spin.

IMO you need to tune the launch (initial timing, accelerator cam/pumpshot etc). A 360 on street tires at the track should be breaking the tires at will.

 

[318willrun]

I'm in favor of X-pipes, but it boils down to the combo and carb tuning to get the most out of it. With my TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step headers I added a 3" X-pipe with straight through Dynomax mufflers on my Dart Sport and it picked up a bit, but I don't recall the exact numbers. It liked slightly smaller jets afterwards from what I had in it (on my particular combo). I kept it on despite the pain of having to remove it for trans swaps, it reduced the clearance around the driveshaft and differential and I had to take out the extra 60+ lbs that it added to get the car back down closer to minimum race weight spec.

As for porting, any smoothing/clean-up should help, but don't expect big gains. Knowing what and where to "port" is always important. With any 2.xx or low 3.xx gears, you need torque and air velocity.

If you like to experiment and can tune a carb, also consider trying straight 4 hole or tapered 4 hole spacers . I also tried a Stealth once and found that it ran better with jets at least 2 numbers higher on the deeper plenum side (or 2 #'s lower on the shallow side, or split the difference between the two, depending how you're jetted now). But for my particular race combo, it still wasn't faster than the single plane Holley Strip Dominator I run.

I like the 4 hole spacer idea, it may be one I take to the track and try

 

[318willrun]

IMO you need to tune the launch (initial timing, accelerator cam/pumpshot etc). A 360 on street tires at the track should be breaking the tires at will.

I think wheel spin is an unfair assessment. What should the 60 ft be with 2.45 gears, stock converter, and I'm guessing about 3300-3400 lbs car without me in it?????? What would you expect? 1.7's? 1.8's? If so, then 3.55's and a good 9.5" converter would drop me around 1.4's -1.5's in the 60 ft.?? Isn't that 10 second range?

• I think 2.04 60 ft time is really good, considering the weight, converter, gears, and tire size. But I could be wrong, and if somebody shows me a real close build of my car with a 1.8 60 ft time, I'll gladly go back to the drawing board. Always on board for improvement!

 

[mderoy340]

I think wheel spin is an unfair assessment. What should the 60 ft be with 2.45 gears, stock converter, and I'm guessing about 3300-3400 lbs car without me in it?????? What would you expect? 1.7's? 1.8's? If so, then 3.55's and a good 9.5" converter would drop me around 1.4's -1.5's in the 60 ft.?? Really? Isn't that 10 second range?

• I think 2.04 60 ft time is really good, considering the weight, converter, gears, and tire size. But I could be wrong, and if somebody shows me a real close build of my car with a 1.8 60 ft time, I'll gladly go back to the drawing board. Always on board for improvement!

I gave you some things to look at that might help performance and cost nothing. I'm out.

 

[318willrun]

I gave you some things to look at that might help performance and cost nothing. I'm out.

It wasn't a challenge, just trying to understand your reasoning. I gave my reason why tire spin wasn't a good way to measure the tune of the car, and I was reasoning out loud if I should be demanding more out of my car than a 2.04 60ft. Sorry if it offended you, but if your out, goodbye.