adjusting valve lash 422 SB

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3402

3402

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Hi,
New engine, 422 stroker roller cam .740/.722, installed 106* (engine wasn't built by me, when I first saw it, it was complete)

Engine was broken in on dyno, and I ran it for 1/2 hour and changed oil and filter.
I went to adjust the valves (first time by me). maybe 25% of the valves were super tight, I mean valves were preloaded with no clearence at all.
So at that point I stopped adjusting them because I thought I might be doing something wrong.
I never had a .740 lift roller cam before, I've always used the direct connection valve lash sticker for setting lash.
so my question, is the direct connection sticker still a good way to adjust the valves? I'll email the builder tomorrow, but would like to get it done tonight.
I know there are other ways of adjusting the valves, but the DC sticker should work right?
Thanks
 
The 8 position method is the most accurate way to set the valves.

I don’t use it if I’m doing a lash loop or similar but most of the time I use it.

What makes you think they were set right to start with?
 
MoparValveLashSetup (1).jpg
 
Newbomb Turk said:
The 8 position method is the most accurate way to set the valves.

I don’t use it if I’m doing a lash loop or similar but most of the time I use it.

What makes you think they were set right to start with?
Click to expand...
Thats the way I've always done it, Just surprised it was this far off. and was thinking I was maybe doing something wrong. Assumed the engine builder or dyno guys would have checked it a little closer. there were a couple valves I don't think were even closing.
Thanks,
 
I wouldn’t use that old Mopar performance method even if someone offered to set them for me. I’ll use the old proven opening, closing method.
 
Do you have a cam card? Maybe it’s a tight lash solid. Maybe it’s a hydraulic roller cam with solid lifters requiring a tight lash. You have to know what’s in it or what lash should be before knowing if it’s wrong.
 
The 4 position method is accurate up to 290 @ 050 duration; more than that, the 8 position should be used.
Once the initial adjustment/running in is complete, the random method is the most accurate.
 
The bigger the cam, the more skewed that Mopar Performance chart is. No way would I use it. I've always had the best results adjusting them ONE at a time right down the line. Takes a little longer, but that assures I can get them on the base circle every time.
 
Bewy said:
The 4 position method is accurate up to 290 @ 050 duration; more than that, the 8 position should be used.
Once the initial adjustment/running in is complete, the random method is the most accurate.
Click to expand...


Not even Chrysler says that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The bigger the cam, the more skewed that Mopar Performance chart is. No way would I use it. I've always had the best results adjusting them ONE at a time right down the line. Takes a little longer, but that assures I can get them on the base circle every time.
Click to expand...

The 4 position method gets more skewed as the cam gets longer but the 8 position method doesn’t.

If you lash the valves with the intake off you can see the the lifter is exactly 180 degrees from the nose of the lobe.

As for the EOIC method I do that for lash loops and stuff like that but I’ve seen some very sharp guys miss doing it that way.

The faster the lobes the easier it is to miss.
 
so the correct procedure is ?
exhaust valve starts to open-- adjust intake
intake valve opens all the way and starts to close-- adjust exhaust

or is there another way?

duration @ .050 is 282/286
cam card calls for install at 110*
installed a 106*
heads are Indy 360-1 CNC 245
As far as HP, builder said 700, dyno said 650.

Thanks everbody for your help.
 
3402,
You are close to the 290 @ 050 limit, so use the 8 position method. Some people are making too much of this, almost anal.
You have roller lifters.......& presumably roller rockers. A roller lifter has two areas that can vary in dimension [ that a FT lifter does not ]. How accurate the hole is in the centre of the roller & how accurate the bushing [ or needle rollers ] is machined; this can change the lash. Same deal with the roller on the rocker. Then you have base circle run out. You could adjust lash when these variations are ALL at a low point. Then after rotating the engine, you check again.....& your lash has tightened 0.003" because the high points have lined up. You have a WTF moment.....
There is no way of knowing if you are on the high or low side; does not matter which method you use. Also, with the lifter, any error or tolerance gets multiplied by the rocker ratio...
That is why it is best to use the simplest method for initial start up....ball park number.....& then use the random method for the most accurate lash adjustment.
 
I would say it’s a pretty safe bet that whichever method you choose………if you’re sure the cam is on the base circle for the valve you’re checking, and the clearance is zero or less, and you’re sure the lifters are solid………they need adjustment.

You just need to know what that adjustment should be.
 
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