After Market Universal Wiring Harness & Fuse Block?

-
I've done several cars front to back for others using the Speedway kit. Loved that the individual wires were all marked. These kits have a GM based architecture so for a mopar you have to cut off the steering column connector and tap into the mopar one. They are also not set up for the Mopar direct feed Amp gauge which reading here it seems many would be happy with. If I were just doing just a fuse block upgrade I'd use the Painless fuse block because it's modular, compact and has convenient mounting lugs on each module (see pic in post #6). I think any of these aftermarket kits will work just fine, but each of the full kits have their quirks when adapting to a Mopar, or other, vehicle.
 
How hard is it to convert the glass fuse panel to a spade panel, when the glass ones are ganged together? Thanks
 
@coalman - If using a factory type, like out of a mid 80's mopar with larger spade fuses they are also ganged together. Even the fuse box in a late 90's mopar with the mini spade fuses is set up this way. Typically one row (side) of fuse box is constant, battery fed, power and other row is ignition, key on power. If using the Painless replacement modular fuse block(s) you can probably order a section (of 4 fuses like pic in post #6) already wired together or ganged. If not you'd have to connect them together via the wiring. It seems reasonable to think that Painless would sell their (4) fuse segments either ganged or not. I've never researched it. What I'm stating about factory fuse blocks is true generally speaking but there are often exceptions. For example (5) fuses on one side of a block but only four might be ganged together. For this reason it's always nice to have factory diagrams around to clarify as others suggested in earlier posts.
 
valiantpatrol said:
@coalman - If using a factory type, like out of a mid 80's mopar with larger spade fuses they are also ganged together. Even the fuse box in a late 90's mopar with the mini spade fuses is set up this way. Typically one row (side) of fuse box is constant, battery fed, power and other row is ignition, key on power. If using the Painless replacement modular fuse block(s) you can probably order a section (of 4 fuses like pic in post #6) already wired together or ganged. If not you'd have to connect them together via the wiring. It seems reasonable to think that Painless would sell their (4) fuse segments either ganged or not. I've never researched it. What I'm stating about factory fuse blocks is true generally speaking but there are often exceptions. For example (5) fuses on one side of a block but only four might be ganged together. For this reason it's always nice to have factory diagrams around to clarify as others suggested in earlier posts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply...
 
Bill Crowell said:
I prefer to rebuild the original fuse block because it makes troubleshooting much easier when using the FSM schematics. The parts for the fuse block are getting more difficult to find, but they are available. I also like to rebuild the old wiring harnesses with the same color wire as the original, and in some circuits with a slightly larger-gauge wire.
Click to expand...

I am going to take your advice and change out the fuse clips in the fuse block, found some on "E" Bay. The ears are weak and rusty. I will see how it goes, plan on doing it this winter. Thanks
 
Will any Packard 56 terminals work in the factory fuse box, or does it have to be Chrysler? Thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top