Aftermarket gears?

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67_Slimer

67_Slimer

Real Hot Rods don't shift themselves.
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I'm rebuilding my 833 4 speed after destroying 3rd gear. I was wondering if there are any companies such as Liberty or similar that make gears that are stronger than say a stock replkacement? I can't seem to find anything so I figured I'd ask around before I ordered a set. Thank you.
 
Liberty used to make 9310 gear sets for the 833 but I haven’t seen any of those since probably the late 1990’s.

I’m of the opinion that you can’t make a gear set that can survive a junk clutch.

If you are breaking 3rd gear it’s almost always the clutch.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Liberty used to make 9310 gear sets for the 833 but I haven’t seen any of those since probably the late 1990’s.

I’m of the opinion that you can’t make a gear set that can survive a junk clutch.

If you are breaking 3rd gear it’s almost always the clutch.
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Well , I'm sure the gears being about 50 years old didn't help either LOL
 
NoCar340 said:
No worries. @Muswagon is just poking @Newbomb Turk with the synthetic comment. It's all in good fun.
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Not really. Open ignorance isn’t fun. Why in 2025 anyone would think you can’t use synthetics in these boxes is a fool.

I never said it saves parts. But it sure makes them easier to shift.

Since 1979 I’ve been doing it with at least 3 different brands.

But because someone says it can’t be done then it can’t be done.

It’s stupid really.
 
I understand your point entirely. However, I don't think @Muswagon was being serious based on the little winky at the end of his post. Guys with a little winky rarely get taken seriously.
 
Asking seriously, why does a crappy clutch lead to a 3rd gear issue? Reason i ask is I am running a clutch I should not be, the mcleod street pro with a 440 and A833. I would rather replace the clutch over winter instead of trans gears if i am flirting with danger
 
Third gear is the furthest gear out on the mainshaft( fourth gear locks the input and main shafts together) hence third gear has the most deflection of all the gears in the trans. A hard hitting clutch will and does enhances the deflection. That is why a clutch that is set up with a little slip on the hit and locks up after the hit will save the trans and keeps the rpm's up to make the car accelerate quicker off the line and each gear change.
 
Muswagon said:
Asking seriously, why does a crappy clutch lead to a 3rd gear issue? Reason i ask is I am running a clutch I should not be, the mcleod street pro with a 440 and A833. I would rather replace the clutch over winter instead of trans gears if i am flirting with danger
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I'm told I have a "crappy" clutch but it hits like I'm getting hit by a freight train. I only destroyed 3rd gear because I had 2 passengers in the car that weren't exactly small. I'm going to leave the clutch and PP as is and build up the tranny (hence why I asked if they make stronger gears) but still waiting for answers on that.
 
19DART66 said:
Third gear is the furthest gear out on the mainshaft( fourth gear locks the input and main shafts together) hence third gear has the most deflection of all the gears in the trans. A hard hitting clutch will and does enhances the deflection. That is why a clutch that is set up with a little slip on the hit and locks up after the hit will save the trans and keeps the rpm's up to make the car accelerate quicker off the line and each gear change.
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So is there any options on stronger gears to put in my 833?
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Not really. Open ignorance isn’t fun. Why in 2025 anyone would think you can’t use synthetics in these boxes is a fool.

I never said it saves parts. But it sure makes them easier to shift.

Since 1979 I’ve been doing it with at least 3 different brands.

But because someone says it can’t be done then it can’t be done.

It’s stupid really.
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I use synthetic in my Dana and my motor but not in my tranny.
 
You should add a clutch tamer. Post 15 is right on the money. If your clutch is setup right and your gearbox is built to stock with stock part you should be able to throw 6-700 HP at it and the stuff that brakes is from the slip yolk back IE u-joints, diff, axels, then those parts should be upgraded. Not the gear stack in the gearbox.
 
Excellent info thank you. I think I have the perfect clutch then based on that info, just by luck and being cheap...
 
67_Slimer said:
I'm told I have a "crappy" clutch but it hits like I'm getting hit by a freight train. I only destroyed 3rd gear because I had 2 passengers in the car that weren't exactly small. I'm going to leave the clutch and PP as is and build up the tranny (hence why I asked if they make stronger gears) but still waiting for answers on that.
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It’s also the smallest gear on the shaft.

You have to apply the clutch. With a clutch like you have you don’t apply the clutch. It’s like a toggle switch.

It’s either on or off. That breaks parts.
 
Don't choose a clutch with more torque capacity than you need, as excess clutch torque capacity is counter-productive. Makes it easier to spin the tires, but overall slows the car down.

The more torque capacity a clutch has, the quicker it can pull the engine down against WOT. The quicker the clutch pulls the engine down, the more intense the impact sent to the transmission. In the example below, the input shaft saw over 1500lbs after the shift into 3rd gear while the clutch was pulling the engine down. Also notice the torque sent to the input shaft while the engine was accelerating is far less than the 425ftlbs this engine was capable of producing...

clutchtamerUinput.png


A clutch with less torque capacity would pull the engine down at a slower rate, which in-turn would reduce the intensity of the inertia spike. Basically, the same amount of inertia energy would be released, but it would be released over a longer period of time.

Grant
 
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