69b7bbgts
Well-Known Member
Greatly appreciate everyone's input I will let you know how it turns out
Aftermarket rocker recommendations
- Thread starter 69b7bbgts
- Start date
-
EddieSketti
Well-Known Member
So have I! I am getting ready to again.
Ditto
Cal Tonsley
Well-Known Member
I have, you should too!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I love the fact that in looking through this thread and see all the guys who’ve hooked up with Mike.
You can’t find a nicer guy, and he has all his ducks lined up and quacking out loud. His product is PHENOMENAL and the price is more than fair.
I hope that in the future, everyone does this when they change from production parts to aftermarket stuff. Mopar valve train issues would disappear and guys would make more power and live longer.
THANK YOU MIKE!
You can’t find a nicer guy, and he has all his ducks lined up and quacking out loud. His product is PHENOMENAL and the price is more than fair.
I hope that in the future, everyone does this when they change from production parts to aftermarket stuff. Mopar valve train issues would disappear and guys would make more power and live longer.
THANK YOU MIKE!
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Get the Mancini rockers, made by Harland Sharp for them.
Very good price, work extremely well out of the box with no correction on trick flows. Nice units, the way i would go, and not think twice
Very good price, work extremely well out of the box with no correction on trick flows. Nice units, the way i would go, and not think twice
Mike with B3 will take the time to help & educate you about the ins & outs of the various rocker manufacturers. He will help you get your heads & rockers get to their optimum potential. Everyone on this site should give Mike the approval that he deserves if they have ever dealt with him.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
This is true. That rocker is very VERY close to about perfect on the TF head. Any correction would be minor, and Mike discussed this with lead69. Maybe he can chime into what Mike said about that, but I know he is up to his eyes in alligators and the alligators are winning right now.
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
good buddy just put them on his stroker and made a maiden track test after several long street jaunts.
He was impressed with the geometry.
Has a hughes 620 ish lift flat tappet cam
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Ive been using Hughes roller rockers and retro roller hydro lifters in a non roller LA block...NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS. Ive had the rocker shafts out 3 different times. Some of the rockers over time will begin to gall and causes the rocker to bind. I can hear it at idle and when I take it apart usually 2 or 3 rockers don't move freely on the shaft. Chucked up in the lathe they clean up pretty nice and are smooth again till the next time. Has never been the same rocker binding twice. Don't get me started on their lifters. 3 different sets and they eventually develop enough wear on the inner plunger to lifter inside bore to cause the plunger to gain excessive clearance, leak down and collapse. Now because of the excessive side load from lifter to pushrod angle, 2 of the lifter bores are egged and the block is useless until the lifter bosses are bushed. I wouldn't recommend hydro roller lifters in a non roller block after my experience and I certainly won't go back to Hughes for rockers. I know some who would never recommend Hydro rollers...I'm starting to lean that way as well on my next build starting next week with an LA factory roller 360 block. I want to run Solid rollers in this one with Harland Sharps up top.
Last edited:
I’d use a Hyd. roller lift/cam again but never in a lower house combo. The one I have now is a Competition Cams Hyd. roller and factory lifters in a 360 roller block. It is a fairly stout but absolutely a capable daily driver. Designed to drive and enjoy with good power.
If I’m going roller tappet and getting some gusto out of the build, it will be a solid roller. In my head, the difference in how things work for a actual driver vs a street machine or stouter is where the cam operates in its RPM band.
At a .050 duration of 230/236 starts the street machine. After this, it will be a nice solid lifter cam, FT or roller. I figure if your going to step up, you might as well STEP UP!
If I’m going roller tappet and getting some gusto out of the build, it will be a solid roller. In my head, the difference in how things work for a actual driver vs a street machine or stouter is where the cam operates in its RPM band.
At a .050 duration of 230/236 starts the street machine. After this, it will be a nice solid lifter cam, FT or roller. I figure if your going to step up, you might as well STEP UP!
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
know several people running 600+ lift with them and the geometry is excellent right out of the box with trick flow heads.
One buddy, 620+ lift, 7000 rpm, work perfect
How many ,miles on the engine ? I've got over 6000miles and have not run into that problem , yet ? Dd you use hardened shafts and the cryo rockers ? Going to take off the heads and intake again this week and look for any problems
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
let's see the pics of the stripes
one of the advantages with tf is you may avoid B3 IF you get the right rockers
or not
factor B3 in when you are comparing heads
one of the advantages with tf is you may avoid B3 IF you get the right rockers
or not
factor B3 in when you are comparing heads
Didn't use cryo's, I bought PN HUG 15063 PREMIUM SB 1.6 ROCKER ARM KIT W/ SHAFTS CNC'D ALUMINUM ROCKERS. INCLUDES SPACERS, SHIMS & GROOVED SHAFTS.
Ive got about 7000 on this last lifter set and probably 4000 since the last crocus cloth cleanup of the shafts on the lathe. 3 sets of retro rollers...they sent me new ones after they got mine back each time no charge except shipping. Ive had the rocker shafts out 4 times to clean them up. There's about 20,000 miles on the motor since rebuild. I run Beehives with 135 lbs seat pressure closed I think it is...and the wipe is centered and narrow. I got the heads from Brian @ IMMengines and had the rockers installed by my builder at the time.
dartindanno
Well-Known Member
I used the Mancini 1.6 rockers also. No correction kit, no issues with clearance
thanks for the info , will be looking for any problems like yours on my engine .
I'll be pissed off if i have these problems , never believed in roller **** just went for it because i'm stupid
Oh, I don't know. I should have bushed the lifter bores for the taller hydro rollers or for solid rollers from the get go. In the Roller LA's and magnums I don't think they have these problems...maybe RPM limited as compared to solids. I think the magnums addressed the pushrod/lifter angle too...don't quote me on that. I might take this one and have it bushed for a rebuild on the stand ready to go should I toast something on the track with the new factory LA roller. I just need to figure out which solid rollers work with the magnum style lifter bosses. Something EDM and a bushed roll .800 if I can find one. I don't know if the hughes cryo would stop the galling...I aint gonna find out either. There's a lot of retro roller LA's running around out there...I think mine may have already had worn lifter bores to start with. I do know my closest lifter oil band to being exposed by the bore chamfers is about .060 thou. It did seem to weep more than I anticipated at the lifter bores when I was priming it after rebuild.
Last edited:
That's pertnear dead nuts I'd say.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
nice stripe
well i had a look inside and the lifters are fine , rockers and shafts have no wear . maybe i'm just lucky ? I'll take pics on friday , next build , my spare 340 is not going to have roller **** , i've run F/T CRAP FOR 40 YEARS with engines with more than 400,000 miles without problems , going to stick with what works
-
