Alternatives to carb cleaner

-
Oh ok I know what your talking about we use to use that stuff when I worked for a cleaning company. That stuff is crazy. We had a bottle that leaked a little and it ate thru the wood shelf. There was a new girl that mixed it with bleach one time she almost died. She passed out and I had to drag her out of the bathroom and thru the plant to get her outside they had to evacuate the whole building needless to say they fired her and almost me because I was supposed to be training her.

That sounds like the stuff alright.
She's lucky it didn't explode acid right in her face.
 
That sounds like the stuff alright.
She's lucky it didn't explode acid right in her face.
Apparently from what I can remember she had cleaned the toilet with bleach and flushed it and it wasnt good enough so she poured the acid in the bottles we had looked like a differential oil bottle. With the little spout on the end. Apparently all the beach wasnt out and it put out some kinda toxic gas.
 
Apparently from what I can remember she had cleaned the toilet with bleach and flushed it and it wasnt good enough so she poured the acid in the bottles we had looked like a differential oil bottle. With the little spout on the end. Apparently all the beach wasnt out and it put out some kinda toxic gas.

It made chlorine dioxide gas which is extremely toxic. It will sear the lining off of your nose, throat and lungs causing chemical pneumonia that can result in death.

It’s not very different than the poison “mustard gas” used in WWI that killed thousands.
 
It made chlorine dioxide gas which is extremely toxic. It will sear the lining off of your nose, throat and lungs causing chemical pneumonia that can result in death.

It’s not very different than the poison “mustard gas” used in WWI that killed thousands.
Yea that's what I was told when I first started working there they told me about that stuff and what it did and the 3 years I worked there I never used it ever. I was scared to death of it. I guess that's why my forearms are so big now i just scrubbed everything clean Haha
 
It made chlorine dioxide gas which is extremely toxic. It will sear the lining off of your nose, throat and lungs causing chemical pneumonia that can result in death.

It’s not very different than the poison “mustard gas” used in WWI that killed thousands.
Happened to my dad. Co-worker decanted some muriatic and didnt label it, pops poured it in assuming it was what was marked on bottle.
Had to evacuate building,was on local news. Dad ended up in hospital and Festus almost got fired.
 
I have used it to clean rental house toilets. Have to hold your breath and nose while dumping it in. Then run back in few minutes later to flush it & run out. Gets them sparkling clean, but pretty hazardous.
 
Muratic acid is difficult to neutralize. It will continue to eat after being rinsed. I am not sure of the neutralizing process. Lots of horror stories like turning complete machine shops into rust from an open container.
 
Muratic acid is difficult to neutralize. It will continue to eat after being rinsed. I am not sure of the neutralizing process. Lots of horror stories like turning complete machine shops into rust from an open container.
It’s fairly easy to neutralize with calcium which converts it quickly to calcium chloride that is not volatile and non-acidic. Chlorine loves calcium.

Ground oyster shells, anti-acids like Tums and Rolaids, and simple baking soda neutralize it fast.
 
It’s fairly easy to neutralize with calcium which converts it quickly to calcium chloride that is not volatile and non-acidic. Chlorine loves calcium.

Ground oyster shells, anti-acids like Tums and Rolaids, and simple baking soda neutralize it fast.
I understand neutralizing the product "itself". Neutralizing it on a porous, ferrous surface is what I have been leary of.
 
I understand neutralizing the product "itself". Neutralizing it on a porous, ferrous surface is what I have been leary of.
Not much of an issue, just use baking soda. Brownian movement and chemical reaction fronts will quickly carry it into the porous surface. Just a little extra time is required.

On ferrous surfaces, the time is nearly Immediate as the calcium outcompetes the iron in the reaction with the chlorine. Chemistry 101.
 
Not much of an issue, just use baking soda. Brownian movement and chemical reaction fronts will quickly carry it into the porous surface. Just a little extra time is required.

On ferrous surfaces, the time is nearly Immediate as the calcium outcompetes the iron in the reaction with the chlorine. Chemistry 101.
So now do we have a High Ph condition?
 
It’s fairly easy to neutralize with calcium which converts it quickly to calcium chloride that is not volatile and non-acidic. Chlorine loves calcium.

Ground oyster shells, anti-acids like Tums and Rolaids, and simple baking soda neutralize it fast.

I've been told water will neutralize it. Is that incorrect?
 
I used gunwash, from the body shop. i have soaked carbs in pine-sol 50/50 water.
I tried pine sol on a Carter and I got nowhere. I left the boosters in overnight and the next morning they were spongy! Really attacked the Aluminum I guess. Ill stick with stinky Berryman's and the next time I got to NV or AZ, Ill buy another gallon of it. Check out my rusty wheel stripped in acid
Cleaning Wheels with Acid .
Stuff works but the wheels looked worse in a week! Flash rusted big time even after I dipped them in 1 box:3 gallons of water of baking soda neutralizer and applied oil! I think the pool acid to water (always add acid to water, not the other way around!) ratio was ~2:3 kept adding water until the rim was covered in the bottom of a 40 gallon trash can, perfect size. I would add some rocks or something to the center just to take up volume where the rim is hollow..Pool acid was $7 for 2 gallon pack at Homeless Depot iirc. And Acid vapor will rust bare metal feet away as posted.
 
Last edited:
No, sodium bicarbonate is just mildly above neutral pH. But it has a larger buffering capacity against acid to neutralize it.
No, sodium bicarbonate is just mildly above neutral pH. But it has a larger buffering capacity against acid to neutralize it.
I KNOW that soda blasting metal creates a substrate that creates adhesion problems for painted surfaces. High alkaloid. ( may be wrong terminology) That is my concern, being involved in the metal painting industry. That and the idea that the sodium bicarbonate will not penetrate enough ( on the molecular level?) to neutralize the muratic acid and the acid will continue to eat away at the iron.
 
I KNOW that soda blasting metal creates a substrate that creates adhesion problems for painted surfaces. High alkaloid. ( may be wrong terminology) That is my concern, being involved in the metal painting industry. That and the idea that the sodium bicarbonate will not penetrate enough ( on the molecular level?) to neutralize the muratic acid and the acid will continue to eat away at the iron.
You are over thinking it. Simple chemistry. Sodium barcarbonate solution neutralizes acid but is NOT high pH...buffering capacity and pH are two different things.

If sodium bicarbonate was high pH, you couldn’t eat a Tums or drink a bicarbonate without destroying your esophagus.

But that doesn’t happen.
 
You are over thinking it. Simple chemistry. Sodium barcarbonate solution neutralizes acid but is NOT high pH...buffering capacity and pH are two different things.

If sodium bicarbonate was high pH, you couldn’t eat a Tums or drink a bicarbonate without destroying your esophagus.

But that doesn’t happen.
Ya, I over think. In my minds eye, acid is more effective at penetrating a substrate than sodium bicarbonate but I am most likely wrong. Sorry to beat a dead horse and I appreciate you entertaining my inconsistency
 
Ya, I over think. In my minds eye, acid is more effective at penetrating a substrate than sodium bicarbonate but I am most likely wrong. Sorry to beat a dead horse and I appreciate you entertaining my inconstancy.
The difficulty I think you are having is with dry sodium bicarbonate vs.a solution. Dry blasting needs to be followed by a water rinse to dissolve and remove the remaining bicarbonate particles.

A wet solution should also be rinsed afterward but isn’t so critical.

Chemistry in the wet state is very different than it is in the dry state. The acids you are thinking of are wet but the bicarbonate is dry which is why you think they behave differently. Make both wet and the game changes.
 
Ya, I over think. In my minds eye, acid is more effective at penetrating a substrate than sodium bicarbonate but I am most likely wrong. Sorry to beat a dead horse and I appreciate you entertaining my inconsistency
I'm guilty too I overthink everything until it's right in front of me then I'm like oh that's not so hard lol.
Yall lost me with all this chemistry stuff tho I'm to dumb for that. Haha
 
I'm guilty too I overthink everything until it's right in front of me then I'm like oh that's not so hard lol.
Yall lost me with all this chemistry stuff tho I'm to dumb for that. Haha
Its a curse. I don't want to know why. I need to know how.
 
Its a curse. I don't want to know why. I need to know how.
I want to know it all lol when I get to doing something I cant do it until I know every last detail and situation. I will watch 20 videos of the same process just to see different ways of doing it. It can be a blessing too. For example with my carrier bearings I was about to buy a special tool to remove them that was like 80 bucks then I kept researching it until I found out I can cut them with a dremel and knock em off with an air hammer. And it worked flawlessly without spending a dime!
 
The difficulty I think you are having is with dry sodium bicarbonate vs.a solution. Dry blasting needs to be followed by a water rinse to dissolve and remove the remaining bicarbonate particles.


I want to know it all lol when I get to doing something I cant do it until I know every last detail and situation. I will watch 20 videos of the same process just to see different ways of doing it. It can be a blessing too. For example with my carrier bearings I was about to buy a special tool to remove them that was like 80 bucks then I kept researching it until I found out I can cut them with a dremel and knock em off with an air hammer. And it worked flawlessly without spending a dime!
Or you can skip all of that youtube bullshit and use your own brain matter.
 
Last edited:
Sooo, I am a gardener/ metal painter. You are telling me a

Or you can skip all of that youtube bullshit and use your own brain matter.
It helps me visualize what I'm about to do and gives me ideas I would never think of on my own. Your right most of it is bullshit but there are alot of smart people with great ideas and very helpful information on there
 
-
Back
Top