alum edelbrock heads

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MoparOrNokar

HammerTime
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Im about to buy a set of heads and im just curious if my stock rockers and shafts will work for now just to get me on the road
 
That will save you about $500 if you would buy new someplace else.
 
MoparOrNokar said:
Im about to buy a set of heads and im just curious if my stock rockers and shafts will work for now just to get me on the road
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One thing to watch out for with stock rockers...is the eddy spring pressure is 120 on the seat and 320 over the nose on the camshaft...which is somewhat higher then stock...

stock rockers have a tenacity of punching the pushrod through the rocker......MP makes a heavy duty non adjustable rockers with thicker pushrod area....or save up for a set of adjustable rockers...
 
One word of warning they are NOT "Ready to run" out of the box. My machinist found three guides that were too tight. It's worth the money to have someone look at them.
 
Definatelly have them checked used or new, but stock hardware fits ok.
 
Been driving around with an out the box set for several years now..actually make that two sets..
 
AJ/FormS said:
Bought mine in 99. Bolted them straight on. Been there for 15 years/125,000 miles.

OP do yourself a favor, leave the stock gear on the stock heads.
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Same here. I'm not advising, just stating that I'm running a set of OOTB RPM's without issue.

X2, get some good valve gear.
 
Waitaminit....What has a headgasket to do with ports? Unless you mean waterports?These heads are completely bolt-on.Interchangeable.
-What are you expecting from this swap?
-These heads work best in combination with supporting engine mods. On a stock engine I see very little advantage to bolting these on and if your engine suffers from a lack of cylinder pressure/ low compression ratio, they could easily be a drop in performance, or no increase whatsoever.
-These heads allow for deeper breathing with increased camshafting, which usually requires an increase of the Scr, which usually means new pistons, which means an overbore,usually,and deck machining, which leads to other machining.Then to support the deeper breathing, a new manifold and bigger carb, and of course headers and a free breathing exhaust system,and a high stall TC and gears. And then hours of tuning.And then the new power breaks stuff which leads to more expenses......... You see what I mean? To just bolt them on to your stock or LC teener/360, and expect anything at all would be disappointing.
BTW the 340 with its pop-up pistons requires different Eddies or different pistons.

I mention these things because the conversation is leading me to believe that you may be uninitiated(hope Im wrong) in these things, and Id hate to see you spend a lot of money on little to no gain, and then come back here and complain about it.The Eddies are a first step, and at the price offered are a very nice first step, but probably not for your DD.
 
The first pair I bought was in 2000.
Used them out of the box, no concerns.

Built a better engine for them, went from a mild hydraulic cam to a solid lifter hi-lift cam.
Had to open up the push rod tunnels for clearance at max lift.

I also had them checked during the second engine build, no concerns with them.
All I did was to change the valve springs to go with the cam.

Used Fel Pro gaskets back then.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Waitaminit....What has a headgasket to do with ports? Unless you mean waterports?These heads are completely bolt-on.Interchangeable.
-What are you expecting from this swap?
-These heads work best in combination with supporting engine mods. On a stock engine I see very little advantage to bolting these on and if your engine suffers from a lack of cylinder pressure/ low compression ratio, they could easily be a drop in performance, or no increase whatsoever.
-These heads allow for deeper breathing with increased camshafting, which usually requires an increase of the Scr, which usually means new pistons, which means an overbore,usually,and deck machining, which leads to other machining.Then to support the deeper breathing, a new manifold and bigger carb, and of course headers and a free breathing exhaust system,and a high stall TC and gears. And then hours of tuning.And then the new power breaks stuff which leads to more expenses......... You see what I mean? To just bolt them on to your stock or LC teener/360, and expect anything at all would be disappointing.
BTW the 340 with its pop-up pistons requires different Eddies or different pistons.

I mention these things because the conversation is leading me to believe that you may be uninitiated(hope Im wrong) in these things, and Id hate to see you spend a lot of money on little to no gain, and then come back here and complain about it.The Eddies are a first step, and at the price offered are a very nice first step, but probably not for your DD.
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X2 agreed
 
^^ But if he gets RPM's with 63 cc combustion chambers (or even 65 cc's) and bolts them on in place of stock open heads, will he not see a good bump up in CR? In my experience, that is not going to be 'no increase in performance'.... should be a low/mid range torque boost, and the better flow OOTB may help the upper end a bit. But it would likely require some tuning for timing and perhaps secondary jet changes??

But, I do agree that doing this with a complete long-term plan in mind is certainly the best. Wedon't really know a thing about the OP's present engine to really be able to say; he has not shared that info, and would be wise to do so, IMO.

Not sure I understand this question: "Do you have to run a special head gasket or are the ports the same as stock? "

If the RPM heads that the PO has are complete with valves/springs/retainers, then that seems to be a good deal. But the springs are a question to me to see if they will work the stock valvetrain; find out which springs are in there; it looks like they are different for a stock type flat tappet cam versus a roller tappet cam in the same RPM head. The info in post #7 deserves some close attention in regards to the strength of the stock rockers versus the springs. If you don't need absolute max RPM's at this point, then some lighter springs ought to help that.

And make sure the heads are for the rocker shaft type heads; these are also made for Magnum style rockers.
 
Keep in mind, that you will loose a point of compression due to the material the head is made out of.

Aluminum from what I understand, dissipates heat quicker than Iron.
I ran 32 degrees total with the Eddys vs 35 degrees with iron heads.
 
mikedevore said:
Keep in mind, that you will loose a point of compression due to the material the head is made out of.

Aluminum from what I understand, dissipates heat quicker than Iron.
I ran 32 degrees total with the Eddys vs 35 degrees with iron heads.
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If the iron was open chamber and ede's closed, that's more of a factor in timing than the material.

IMO, don't ever buy the open chamber ede heads.
 
The timing slipped on the motor and crashed the valves. Bent the pushrods. And who knows what it did to the valves. I plan on buying the eddys because its a huge discount. I plan on replacing pushrods and lifters and putting a thumper cam in with matching springs. Im also looking at stepping up the carb. I may even replace all the bearings while im into it that far. The motor doesnt appear to be hurt anywhere else. Im working on an extreme budget just to get back on the road and make a little more horse. The car currently has a eddy intake, 1 5\8 headers, 600 eddy carb, built 727 with a kit, 3.91 gear, and a 28" tire
 
crackedback said:
If the iron was open chamber and ede's closed, that's more of a factor in timing than the material.

IMO, don't ever buy the open chamber ede heads.
Click to expand...

I agree, however, my closed chamber W2 iron head likes 35 degrees over anything less.

If I have a choice, I using the closed chamber head.
 
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