Aluminum Head advice needed

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jdga80

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I have a 70 duster w/ a 440 and might be in the market for aluminum heads. I have heard good things about the Performer RPMs and the 440 Source Stealth heads. I found this on ebay and was wondering if anyone knew of this type (ProComp). The link is [ame]http://m.ebay.com/itm/191119466001?nav=SEARCH[/ame]

These have 72cc chambers and 2.20 intake valves which would seem to get me a little bump in compression and power. 440 sources are 84cc and 2.14 i believe. I was trying to get aroung paying for the edelbrock name if possible.

I'm not a master engine builder so if im way off base here dont let me have it too bad. lol. jk Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Ebay Heads -265cc Intake runners, 78cc Exhaust runners, 2.20/1.81 valves, 72cc Combustion Chambers
Edelbrock RPM -210cc Intake runners, 70cc Exhaust runners, 2.14/1.81 valves, 84cc Combustion Chambers
440 Source Steath-212cc Intake runners, 72cc Exhaust runners, 2.14/1.81 valves, 80cc Combustion Chambers
 
All heads will likely require new springs & locks. Those heads from Ebay are ProComps and are more in line with the Edelbrock Victor and require offset rockers. Those aren't cheap. $700-$800, I believe.

You can search the Procomps for the good & bad reviews. If you want to try and just "bolt-on" then stick with the Performer RPM's.
 
be careful with used heads off ebay. some of the earlier 440 source heads had problems.
rockers you are taking a gamble for sure.

your best bet is to get a set all done up from hughes or shady dell or brian at IMM etc.

cosmetic stuff is fine from ebay but no way would i get engine parts off there
 
The E-bay ones said new, complete. I know the edelbrock or Indy's are better but I really dont want to pay that much. I'm not trying to put out some ungodly HP numbers. Im just trying to throw a set of decent aluminum heads on an old 440 with a mild cam and headers. If there victor knock offs complete for $1,029 thats hard to beat. I just don't want to buy something thats gonna break the minute i get in the throttle a little bit.
 
What do you hope to accomplish with this 440 Duster? I started out buying the cheapest crap I could find and have since learned my lesson.
 
What is the performance of the car now? What's the goal? What are they going on in terms of your existing engine package? How much do youhave to spend?
 
I had 440 Source heads on my 440, 75 block, stock with a .484 purple shaft. Bolted 'em on right out of the box and never had any issues. The engine itself was a time bomb that did go off and bent both valves in one cylinder. I haven't gotten around to checking out the damage, but if it's only seats and valves that need replacing, they will be on another 440 in the spring. Everyone says to go over them with a fine tooth comb, but if not for ultimate performance I don't think you should have to spend another $700 or whatever to make an already expensive piece work. After all, they should be ready to go for the price. Never hurts to check them though.
 
The performance now is unknown. I drive it to our local ⅛ mile track right down the street from my house. I ran it a couple times and it only ran 8.5 due to a slipping gear in the 727. I've since rebuilt my transmission at tech school with a nice TCI kit, a 2400 stall, turbo action reverse manual valve body, and ratchet shifter. I really only want to hit a 7 with it. The engine is pretty mild with a 270ish cam, TORKER II intake with 2½" spacer, Holley750(4150), headers, 3" exhaust with cutouts/
 
We have the cnc ported stealth heads and they are great, with 1.5 rockers a little bit of grinding was required for the pushrods and i would get new springs, retainers, and locks, the stock springs broke with a 528 mp solid cam, now we have 1.6 440 source rockers and everything is working great, they are a great product and the giys at 440 source are very helpful, when the one spring broke it bent a valve and they sent me a new spring valve retainer and locks.
 
Spend the money to have any cylinder head you buy from the manufacture checked out by a cylinder head mechanic. If it says "ready to go out of the box", it might be ready to go.

Disclaimer:

We know, we've fixed enough of them.
 
twayne24365 said:
We have the cnc ported stealth heads and they are great, with 1.5 rockers a little bit of grinding was required for the pushrods and i would get new springs, retainers, and locks, the stock springs broke with a 528 mp solid cam, now we have 1.6 440 source rockers and everything is working great, they are a great product and the giys at 440 source are very helpful, when the one spring broke it bent a valve and they sent me a new spring valve retainer and locks.
Click to expand...

Exactly why most shops say that you need to replace the springs & locks on most all these heads out of the box. Some listen, some don't. Lucky it only bent a valve and didn't bust a piston or crack the head.
 
80fbody said:
Exactly why most shops say that you need to replace the springs & locks on most all these heads out of the box. Some listen, some don't. Lucky it only bent a valve and didn't bust a piston or crack the head.
Click to expand...

very true, all it did was nick the factory cast piston
 
80fbody said:
Exactly why most shops say that you need to replace the springs & locks on most all these heads out of the box. Some listen, some don't. Lucky it only bent a valve and didn't bust a piston or crack the head.
Click to expand...

My connecting rod broke and sent the piston into the valves. Bent them and stuck a lifter all the way down.
 
IQ52 said:
Spend the money to have any cylinder head you buy from the manufacture checked out by a cylinder head mechanic. If it says "ready to go out of the box", it might be ready to go.

Disclaimer:

We know, we've fixed enough of them.
Click to expand...

jdga80 you should call this guy ^^^ he will set you up right and will get you what you need that will work for what you want perform well and not fall apart on you :D

and you wont get scalped
 
jdga80 said:
The performance now is unknown. I drive it to our local ⅛ mile track right down the street from my house. I ran it a couple times and it only ran 8.5 due to a slipping gear in the 727. I've since rebuilt my transmission at tech school with a nice TCI kit, a 2400 stall, turbo action reverse manual valve body, and ratchet shifter. I really only want to hit a 7 with it. The engine is pretty mild with a 270ish cam, TORKER II intake with 2½" spacer, Holley750(4150), headers, 3" exhaust with cutouts/
Click to expand...



Honestly in the 7s is doable with what you have, provided it's in good shape and tuned properly. You might want to run it with the new driveline stuff and get some baselines. Also make sure it's consistent, and tuned properly in terms of timing and basic carb setup.
Staying with the "get new heads" theme - With what you have I don't think you need to get into porting unless there's budget money for that. From the "in tech school" line, and remembering when I was in there - money's an issue. Forget the Super Stealths or Vicor heads. I'd avoid the Prolines too. I like the Stealths, they are the cheapest option I'd go with, but you will have to spend to get them in a condition for me to call them ready to install. Keep the valves, repalce the seals, retainers, locks, and springs with some to match your cam. The RPMs are a little better - I'd only replace the springs, the rest of the hardware is good. Both manufacturers should have the valve jobs re-done. If you don't know what cam you have, pull it out and either get the numbers or measure it. If you're going to replace it, get something a little bigger - in the 230° @ .050 area.
 
Thank you to everyone that commented. I just paid off the 392 Challenger and now I'll have the bucks to get a decent set of heads. I contacted the proline guy on facebook with questions about the heads he had pertaining to the pushrods, offset rockers, etc and he would never reply. I think I'll just get a nice set when the money is there like most of yall recommended. Thanks again.
 
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