Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

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I’d like to see a picture of the finished product for the later square instrument cluster. From these pictures it looks like the top of the numbers would be cut off:

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hotrod swinger said:
I’d like to see a picture of the finished product for the later square instrument cluster. From these pictures it looks like the top of the numbers would be cut off
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You might just finger out where to cut the screen with scale on it, make it work.

volt gauge screen.jpeg
 
RedFish said:
You might just finger out where to cut the screen with scale on it, make it work.
Click to expand...

I think that’s what I’m gonna have to do because I’m pretty sure the way he has it set up the tops of those numbers will be cut off.

I also like this option:

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I just installed a Sunpro 1.5” voltmeter. So satisfying, it’s virtually plug and play once you disassemble it.

I’m hoping to get some feedback on my wiring. I will clean it up and use better connectors, these are just temporary, but are these good places to connect the voltmeter power and ground?
 
I’ll correct myself: those were both attached to grounds. I think this will work though:

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That will work but... everything that needs a chassis ground is still relying on the few screws that hold the panel in the dash for a ground path. You could add a length of wire at your screw by the speedo and route it to ground somewhere. Male and female terminals a few inches away from the screw and this wire will unplug next time the panel is removed.
 
RedFish said:
That will work but... everything that needs a chassis ground is still relying on the few screws that hold the panel in the dash for a ground path. You could add a length of wire at your screw by the speedo and route it to ground somewhere. Male and female terminals a few inches away from the screw and this wire will unplug next time the panel is removed.
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Agreed.
I've heard that one can never have to many grounds.
 
hotrod swinger said:
I didn’t take a picture, I just bent a quarter inch spade connector similar to how the noise suppressor has a bent male spade.
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Just to circle back the bent connector worked well. However, QQ ... did you put the capacitor / limiter back in as well? The spade fit just next to each other, but not sure if it will impact anything or is needed at all.

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I didn’t put the capacitor back in because I have a solid state IVR which renders it unnecessary.
 
hotrod swinger said:
I didn’t put the capacitor back in because I have a solid state IVR which renders it unnecessary.
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do you think there is any issue with this setup if I leave the capacitor in? Will the voltmeter only receive power as the capacitor charges and discharges?
 
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This is what the other style Sunpro gauge looks like in the later cluster with no trimming. Should be able to just move the face down a little bit:

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Maybe with that one I’d remove the Sunpro face and just use the ammeter face with the new gauge.
 
I know what the site here is called.
But was wondering if anyone does the conversion on an 80s D150 ammeter?
 
the 1980's pickups [1981 to 1993 ?] used a shunt type system. Most of the current goes into the harness and only a very small amount goes thru the ammeter. It's a good system. My late 80's D-150 didn't work so I pulled the instrument panel out and found corrosion under the ammeter nuts. Used toothbrush style wire brush on the circuit board and nuts. A dab of grease on the nuts. Checked and greased the pins and both plugs. Checked light bulbs. Its been fine ever since.
 
moparmat2000 said:
While in there, why not remove the IVR out of the fuel gage, and wire in a solid state IVR, and install some 5630 LED strip lighting. For more uniform backlighting

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@Moparmatt Old post, but I'm just starting the conversion. Wondering how the cover gets re-installed once the inside mods are done? Do you try to re-crimp it, or epoxy it together......Or maybe something else? Thanks
 
Logan said:
I would suggest connecting the two heavy ga wires that went to the old Mopar amp guage together, connect a light ga wire to this same joint, connect the wire to the hot side of the newly configured guage and a second wire from the other side of the guage to ground. It is now a volt meter.
Click to expand...

Sorry to dig out this old post, but I'm a noob in electricity.
I want to convert my ammeter into a voltmeter but I don't really know the best way to connect it.

If I translate correctly the quoted post above, is it a good diagram and a safe connection?
Voltmeter4.png


:thankyou:

François
 
No, the original ammeter wires are "hot" all the time, so the voltmeter will sit there, always on, and cause a battery parasitic drain

You need to connect it either to "ignition run" (not fused) or in the fuse panel a switched wire on the accessory buss. Stay away from the fuse at the end of the box, INST, which is for the dimmer controlled dash cluster lights
 
I would bypass the ammeter and pick up some voltage from a switched circuit that was only live in the ignition on position. I have these in both my cars and plug them in when I drive especially long distances.

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67Dart273 said:
No, the original ammeter wires are "hot" all the time, so the voltmeter will sit there, always on, and cause a battery parasitic drain

You need to connect it either to "ignition run" (not fused) or in the fuse panel a switched wire on the accessory buss. Stay away from the fuse at the end of the box, INST, which is for the dimmer controlled dash cluster lights
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. I didn't know that the ammeter wires are always "on".
I will connect the voltmeter to the fusebox. :thumbsup:


Francois
 
Tech tip, on the negative post of that volt gage, use stacked metal washers, or a metal spacer for the gage height, then clean the face of the hole in the gage housing to bare metal and bolt it in. Then you only have to run 1 wire for the + side. The negative is case ground to the cluster itself. No need for a wire.
 
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