Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

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I saw this thread and got excited... decided to take it on for my dart.. Here are the pics.
I bought the sunpro 2" volt gauge ($20) and tore it to pieces.
I disassembled the cluster and removed the amp gauge.
I dropped the volt gauge internals into the housing to verify fitment in the factory holes(PIC)
I drilled out the rivets on the factory gauge to remove the face (PIC)
I laid the volt gauge face over the amp gauge to outline relief cuts (PIC)
Then I used the screws from the volt gauge to attach the old face (PIC)
The needle was a bit short in comparison, so I cut and glued the factory needle over the top (PIC)
The last few pics are it fully assembled, front and back.

I had previously painted all my needles orange again so the match was good, I think by looking at the old gauge 12v should be just past the thick Middle line, 14v should be just a bit shy of the next line...

I am gonna use some jumpers to hook it up on the battery of my daily to verify...

GOOD LUCK, It took me less than a hour! So do it!

JOE

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Nice job. Questions... Did you need the plastic pieces from the Sunpro mounting to get the gauge height right ? Where would you put the skill level on a 1 to 10 scale ?
So easy a caveman could do it ? LOL
I peeled the light tube off the Sunpro enclosure.. Then I nutted the gauge on it bassackward. Result was support which made the screen and needle swap much easier.
Any tips you can add to benefit others ?
Happy moparing
 
Redfish,

I left the plastic from the sunpro mounting to easily remount the factory screen/face (I used 1 hole then bent the tab on the other side amd drilled for another hole)
The light tube support you used, did that fit in the dash? I didnt need any other support behind the gauge with the plastic that was with it, and the factory face/screen sitting flush againts the housing and Speedometer. It didnt wiggle, jiggle, or rattle... So I let it be...

As far as difficulty, I already had the cluster out of the car, and had repainted the old needles previously. That work being done made the task a breeze... like a 1-2...

However, it I would have had to crawl under the dash, dis-connect the harness & switches, then get that cluster out (I think in the past I ended up removing the steering wheel or lowering the column away from the dash a bit) it may be more like a 4-5, just because of the patience needed to work under the dash, not truly the diffuculty.

JOE
 
No , Wait, I din't reused the light fixture tube or the can in my car. I used the can as a fixture on the workbench which required removing the tube.
 
I'm a committed ammeter man, but I hafta admit this is one way to go.

Junked out a 77 van and got "all excited" it was "probly" a remote ammeter.

Nope. Damn thing was the same old saw.
 
RedFish said:
No , Wait, I din't reused the light fixture tube or the can in my car. I used the can as a fixture on the workbench which required removing the tube.
Click to expand...


I wasn't sure what you meant when I was reading it... simply a "stand" for work was one of my thoughts, but then I was curious if you meant support the gauge in the factory cluster... makes much more sence now...

JOE
 
I finished up my wiring project yesterday. At start up this needle in this volt meter twitched like crazy. After a couple minutes it settled down to a just above centered position with a slight twitch every 2 or 3 seconds. Turned everything on a when for a short drive. When rolling back into the driveway I noticed that gauge twitching rapidly again but before I could get parked it had settled back down again.
I assume the cause is only the voltage regulator functioning.
Anyone else seeing the same needle movement with a Sunpro volt meter ?
 
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I did it in my 66 cuda dash, the pics posted here are the initial mock up. Couple different ways to wire it but I did get the small sun pro gauge from auto zone. I ended up putting it on a relay that energized when the key is in run so the voltmeter didnt have a constant feed from the battery.
 
RedFish said:
I finished up my wiring project yesterday. At start up this needle in this volt meter twitched like crazy. After a couple minutes it settled down to a just above centered position with a slight twitch every 2 or 3 seconds. Turned everything on a when for a short drive. When rolling back into the driveway I noticed that gauge twitching rapidly again but before I could get parked it had settled back down again.
I assume the cause is only the voltage regulator functioning.
Anyone else seeing the same needle movement with a Sunpro volt meter ?
Click to expand...

I have a Sunpro gauge set currently mounted under my dash....my volt meter twitches at times. I have a one wire Powermaster alternator.
 
383Duster said:
I have a Sunpro gauge set currently mounted under my dash....my volt meter twitches at times. I have a one wire Powermaster alternator.
Click to expand...

Thanks. If its going to twitch I'm going to get use to it. LOL
 
The twitching needle in the new volt meter was due to a faulty voltage regulator. Switched in a OEM from my ol 73 parts car. It was rusty and looked like crap but that needle is steady. Gloss black to the rescue. LOL
Happy moparing
 
4am couldnt sleep... instead of readin a book like most people, I jumped on here.
Guess what Im gonna do this weekend? Hint: cluster is comin out. lol

Thanks for the info guys.
 
RedFish said:
I peeled the light tube off the Sunpro enclosure.. Then I nutted the gauge on it bassackward. Result was support which made the screen and needle swap much easier.
Any tips you can add to benefit others ?
Happy moparing
Click to expand...


I don't have a Sun gauge in front of me to look at. Can you explain what you mean here. What is the light tube and how did you nut it for support?
 
Robj said:
I don't have a Sun gauge in front of me to look at. Can you explain what you mean here. What is the light tube and how did you nut it for support?
Click to expand...

I was only taking advantage of what I had on the table before me at that time.
Others may find it quicker to drill a couple holes in a piece of wood.
 
Will be doing the joeboy version of this on my 69. Thanks.
 
I was looking at my VDO gauges and it looks like the bezels is crimp rolled onto the case. Doesn't look like they will come apart without cutting. How hard was it for all of you to get the Sunpro gauges apart?
 
If I recall, I ground the outer edge off until it "came in two," the front fell off and the rest of the crimp came off the rear of the can.
 
I get in with 3 snips using diagonal pliers. Beware sharps including the lens edges.
 
If you wish to have a stock look contact T-Bone on FBBO. He used the guts of a volt meter to replace the ammeter and it retains the stock gauge face.
 
I would really like to keep the stock look but it's my daily driver and plan to also modify the oil light bay right beside the ammeter and put my oil pressure gauge up there. I see Darts being parted out from time to time and will pick up an extra cluster to store away if anybody ever wants to restore it back. I was really trying to keep everything bone stock looking but finally gave into convenience and functionality. I drive it every single day- why not set it up how I want it to work?

I tried hiding my stereo everywhere and there was no place it would fit other than in the trunk or on the floor under the seat using an I.F. repeater to control it but I couldn't see the face. Then I just thought why am I making this so inconvenient to use every time I'm in here? I mounted it up in the radio bezel and have a spare bezel off ebay squirrelled away now.

This could be the last car I'll have as my own driver. We keep my wife in a modern newer car so we have something for long trips. My son can do what he wants with this one when I don't drive anymore.
 
dartindanno said:
If you wish to have a stock look contact T-Bone on FBBO. He used the guts of a volt meter to replace the ammeter and it retains the stock gauge face.
Click to expand...

Uh, that's exactly what this thread is about doing

Robj said:
I would really like to keep the stock look but it's my daily driver and plan to also modify the oil light bay right beside the ammeter and put my oil pressure gauge up there.
Click to expand...

I've thought about doing the same thing. The "real trick" would be figuring out a way to hide an oil light back there so the gauge lights up red when pressure drops!!
 
Where are you guys drawing power for your volt meters?? Is there a preferred place, or will any switched 12v work?
 
You want switched 12, but you also want to make darn sure that you have fixed the voltage drop problems in the harness/ connectors/ switches etc. "Ignition run" originally feeds the regulator sense line, so that is what you want. "Accessory" would work if you don't mind, or maybe even want the meter powered with the key in that position. I used the same switched power that feeds the cluster/ gauges. Just tap in where power comes into the gauges voltage limiter.
 
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