Ammeter to Voltmeter...who does it?

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One of my Christmas gifts is related to this thread. Money spent at PremiumDashDecals.com to have custom decals created for the rally ALTERNATOR screen that include the volts scale. The added numbers/fonts are a-body correct too.
These decals will look 100% better than my overlay method.
Some might agree it looks better than the original screen.
Pics and more details later. Happy moparing
 
This is one of the all time best electrical threads I've seen
 
That inlay sounds sweet. I wish I would have seen this thread before I spent the money to have my guages changed to white faces. I'm just gonna use the ammeter face and call it good but I would like to see that sticker on yours RF when you get it done.
 
OK.

I got my Sunpro voltmeter and tore it apart. I have it down to the mechanics of the gauge and want more info on what I need to do to the ammeter to prep it and what parts I use off the voltmeter. Do you have some pics or a detailed explanation? I hate to tear into the ammeter without some direction but I will do so if I cant get an answer.

Thanks in advance.

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Uh...........have you read this thread? All three or 4 pages?
 
Uh....yes. And I have a couple of questions as listed and was hoping for some pictures of the conversion vs already mounted pics. Hope that's not to much to ask.

Going into a 69 barracuda rally cluster.

If so then I can always figure it out myself.
 
I'm beginning to wonder if the photos on the previous pages are not loading? Basically all you do is remove the ammeter scale / face and mount it to the voltmeter. You can use the voltmeter face as a template for the two new holes. The little cal pot in the voltmeter is used to adjust voltage to desired "point." Unlike others on here, I set 14V to be right at center, the old "O" point on the ammeter scale.
 
I guess I need to grind off the rivets that hold the ammeter face first then.

OK. I'll give it a shot. Worst I can do is screw it up and have to start over.'

I'll post if I get hung up.
 
I also saw a pic of RF post where he changed the needle to the stock one. Wondering if he just cut and pasted it to the Sunpro needle, painted the SP needle or if he changed the whole thing over.
 
I just did this swap on my Barracuda.

On the old ammeter face plate you need to grind off the rivet that holds on the plastic piece. Remove the two screws on the new voltmeter and test fit to the old face plate. You will have to drill two small holes on the old face plate. Measure twice cut once... haha. The previous pages you can see how much to grind off the old face plate. Hope that helps a little bit. Just keep test fitting to make sure the needle does not get snagged anywhere.
 
Oh and to answer your question, I swapped the whole sunpro piece over and did not swap needles. However to make it more stock looking you can glue on the old needle or paint the new one orange.
 
I also saw a pic of RF post where he changed the needle to the stock one. Wondering if he just cut and pasted it to the Sunpro needle, painted the SP needle or if he changed the whole thing over.

Its not as simple as it seems.
The needle stop is removed.
The coiled wire of the volt gauge is lacquer coated to insulate.
If a needle eventually breaks the lacquer, it screws up the gauge.
Sure it will work for a while but so did the amp gauge.
 
On my 67, with the "tint" (aging?) of the plastic face, the color and difference of the needle is barely noticable. Hell, I've got a friend who's "traitored" over to GM from Mopar and I said "take a good look at that ammeter." this was with the key off and so it was pegged to the left with no voltage. I had to 'splain it to 'im he "didn't get it."
 
OK.


Got the face off and am doing the mock up. I'll measure ten times before I drill the holes. So far so good.
 
Another happy subscriber.

Had to cut some off the bottom of the needle....like part of the counterweight was hitting the center post in the bezel but other than that it looks like stock.

Also mine must be the new and cheaper than ever gauge cause I could not find the trim screw to adjust the needle position anywhere.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I hope it's accurate after cutting the needle. The trim pot if there is hard to see in your photo, but I believe it's in the circle
 

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I didn't cut the needle. I decided I would paint it.

I will look harder but I did see a disc or something like that trim pot on the back where you show it but it does not have the typical Phillips head slot. There is a dab of clear blue glue or something on one side of it...maybe locks it from turning?

I show the counter weight that I had to cut in that second picture.
Just used a nail clipper and chopped about 1/8" off that hung below the coil.
 
That counter weight just might affect accuracy. You might be buying another meter, but I hope not. On the other hand, if you can set it to a known point for 14V and it moves far enough to give you a useable indication, that's probably "accurate" enough.
 
It seems to act like a damper....slows the needle movement down a bit. I tested it both ways and it hits about in the middle of my gauge face which is good enough for me. II will be easy to notice if it drops anyway so I'm pretty happy with the results.

I went ahead and tested the rest of the gauges since I had the battery handy and were good to go!

Thanks again for the great thread.
 
here is mine,did it last spring.works great
 

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Update or in fact no update... I wish I could show y'all the custom decals for this mod. I don't have them yet. :( Reportedly shipped from Canada Feb. 2nd
Other unrelated items I've ordered from U.K. and Hong Kong around Feb.12th have arrived.
Vendor in Canada says he'll make it right if I never receive them. Question now is how long either of us should wait ?
Maybe there is something good to be said about those cheap paper stickers after all.
More later
 
I'm looking for a white face sticker for my plymouth radio now....anyone know where that may be located?
 
I'm looking for a white face sticker for my plymouth radio now....anyone know where that may be located?

That's another one of the many short comings of the aftermarket.
If it helps... Most any print shop can scan your original, invert the colors and print it. High cost comes in custom work, the quality of material used, count printed per sheet, cutting to exact size, etc..
If I only wanted the one, I would approach those guys that make custom front plates at my local flea market.
 
Yea you got that right about low volume and high cost. I tried to scan it myself but it wont lay flat on the scanner so lights bleeds in and mucks up the detail.

Wish someone had a scan of it already.....ANYONE?
 
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