Ammeter

-
salinasjoel

salinasjoel

Learning Daily
Joined
Nov 17, 2011
Messages
1,198
Reaction score
39
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Car is a 65 Dart 273/904

Ok, so I know this has been discussed but I am still not 100% the best way to bypass my Ammeter. I am going to switch to a voltmeter but am not doing so yet. My ammeter is busted and so I have just bypassed the the ammeter connecting the wire together to complete the circuit. What is the max amps/current I should allow to run through this wire? I am wanting to add a fuse for safety and the sake of the rest of my system. Is it on a switch with the key like the coil or is it constant current? I am just thinking I may be able to use it for power under the dash for when I upgrade to modern gauges but if not how can I just get rid of the wiring all together. I do have the factory service manual and access to the wiring diagram.

Thanks
Joel
 
If you have the wiring diagram, that's where to find your answers. This wire is fused by a fusible link outside the firewall. Yes its hot at all times. It branches from a weld splice underneath the dash. Those branches feed ignition switch, headlight switch, etc.., which in turn feed the various components. you can take the measuring instrument out of the wire but you cant take the wire out of the car.
 
That's what I was thinking as well... So the fusible link is sufficient enough and I should not have to concern myself with adding another fuse where the ammeter would have been
 
Best and easiest way is to just run a 10 gage wire from the alternator output lug to the positive battery lug on the starter relay. Make sure there is a 16 gage fusible link in the wire. All connections must be crimped and soldered, and well insulated! You don't need to mess with any under-dash wiring if you do it this way. I've had this modification on my '69 Dart for a few years and am totally happy with it.
 
I realize it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I use auto reseting circuit breakers instead of fusable links for these (always hot) main feeds.
This way if something shorts the breaker will kick out, and when the short is gone everything comes back on by itself without having to replace stuff I may not have on hand.
Some disagree on this but it has served me well for years without issue.

Just a thought.
 
TrailBeast said:
I realize it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I use auto reseting circuit breakers instead of fusable links for these (always hot) main feeds.
This way if something shorts the breaker will kick out, and when the short is gone everything comes back on by itself without having to replace stuff I may not have on hand.
Some disagree on this but it has served me well for years without issue.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

I like that idea!
 
69_340_GTS said:
I like that idea!
Click to expand...

I also use windsheild washer tubing to run them through. (the larger guage alway hot wires) so it has pretty much zero chance of shorting anywhere from abrasion.

I recently swapped to all relays for the headlights using 10ga for the pos and grounds for the bulbs and used washer tubing to insulate those (always hot) wires where they route across the radiator support and behind the bulbs.

I like reliability. :D
 
Reliability is the name of the game for me as well... I like to keep it simple but want to know I'm safe and reliable ie full injection/disc brakes/proper electronics. What kind of breaker are you currently using
 
salinasjoel said:
Reliability is the name of the game for me as well... I like to keep it simple but want to know I'm safe and reliable ie full injection/disc brakes/proper electronics. What kind of breaker are you currently using
Click to expand...

I run a 30 amp inline right off the accesory wire by the battery. (about where the fusable was) but mounted to the inner fender.

I can run a line lock
headlights
wipers
heater on high
electric radiator cooling
signals and brakelights all at the same time with out issue.
 
TrailBeast said:
I run a 30 amp inline right off the accesory wire by the battery. (about where the fusable was) but mounted to the inner fender.

I can run a line lock
headlights
wipers
heater on high
electric radiator cooling
signals and brakelights all at the same time with out issue.
Click to expand...

betcha you cant run hazards and signals at the same time though :D
 
TrailBeast said:
I realize it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I use auto reseting circuit breakers instead of fusable links for these (always hot) main feeds.
This way if something shorts the breaker will kick out, and when the short is gone everything comes back on by itself without having to replace stuff I may not have on hand.
Some disagree on this but it has served me well for years without issue.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Great tip, I used them on my old power wagon when I wired the trailer brake controller in.
 
Re fusing the "always hot" leads, I have a Battery Brain in all my cars (1964 thru 2002). It can totally isolate the battery if you want (200 A rated), though I run the big starter wire around it in my 60's cars. It's main purpose is to isolate the battery if the voltage gets too low, leaving you with enough to start the car, but should similarly work to protect from shorts. However, it would not protect while driving since a sense wire disables it when IGN is on (if desired). Mine have tripped in several cars, which always indicated a battery that was no longer "holding a charge" (confirmed by Autozone).
 
diymirage said:
betcha you cant run hazards and signals at the same time though :D
Click to expand...

Never tried it, but you are probably right. :D
They are not factory wired because I wanted them to work a little different, but still.



BillGrissom said:
Re fusing the "always hot" leads, I have a Battery Brain in all my cars (1964 thru 2002). It can totally isolate the battery if you want (200 A rated), though I run the big starter wire around it in my 60's cars. It's main purpose is to isolate the battery if the voltage gets too low, leaving you with enough to start the car, but should similarly work to protect from shorts. However, it would not protect while driving since a sense wire disables it when IGN is on (if desired). Mine have tripped in several cars, which always indicated a battery that was no longer "holding a charge" (confirmed by Autozone).
Click to expand...

Show off! :D
 
You guys misunderstand. Nothing custom, just store-bought. Search "Battery Brain" on ebay and you will see what I am talking about. List price is a bit high, but I bought all mine much cheaper in bids (~$30). The little blue box in my avatar is their "marine" model. The top models let you disable/enable the battery w/ a remote which is great if leaving the car for while, both to avoid draining, electrical fires, and extra security. All you have to do is install it on the top post. Plus, run a sense wire to an IGN source if you want it to never trip while driving.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top