And So It Begins....

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vitamindart said:
yes, the engine master guys. I don't think they really did try, but I only saw the way it was aired after editing ( and constant trash talk ). Weird **** is where its at, I know when I walk through a car show I spend more time looking at the oddball car than the rows of Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelles and countless cookie cutter trucks.
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I’m with ya and I’m glad you mentioned you only saw the for tv edited version. I can’t guarantee anything but I would bet Brule had many dyno runs on that engine that we didn’t see. And at the end of the episode they actually did give the engine and Dulcich some credit for what it did.
 
Well, we all know a slant 6 will never be a V8, so trash talking the little motors is pretty childish, because people build them because they love them and love being different. It kills me every time someone new walks up to Vixen and asks before I open the hood.......318? 340? and then I open the hood after they've heard it idle in and the look on their face is utter disbelief. Kitty always says after they walk off still in disbelief "you just love that, don't you?" and I do, because they never expect to see DIFFERENT and they just did.
 
"different" is why I kept the/6 in my truck.
I keep toying with the idea of a small turbo, and though I've been told "it isn't as good" I don't know why, I keep wanting to do it as draw thru.
Going by seeing what some of you / guys have done and the dyno results I have seen from others who have built their engine combos very similar to mine even w/o the turbo I'm thinking I won't have any problem meeting my goal of somewhere in between the stock HP of a 318 and that of a 360 of the day from when my truck was new. Which would only be 140-160hp... Same power from a /6 as a stock V8, while being lighter than the V8, should move that d150 pretty decently. I never planned it as a race truck.
Yeah I'm going off of other people's dyno results and parts combos to guess what mine might do, but I did actually have the exact head that's sitting on mine, flowed...... With much assistance from "my68barracuda" here on the board.
 
Here is the short block as Buck Owens would say "Together Again". Still have more cleaning up to do because I'm going to repaint it Street Hemi Orange. But you can see how high up in the bore the pistons are. About .010" in the hole. I plan on running the factory steel shim head gasket that gets about .020" compressed thickness so that should give it some close quench. Factory rods and ARP rod bolts and I plan no more than 5500 RPM so I should be safe "there".
LONG ROD1.JPG


LONG ROD2.JPG
 
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RustyRatRod said:
Well, we all know a slant 6 will never be a V8, so trash talking the little motors is pretty childish, because people build them because they love them and love being different. It kills me every time someone new walks up to Vixen and asks before I open the hood.......318? 340? and then I open the hood after they've heard it idle in and the look on their face is utter disbelief. Kitty always says after they walk off still in disbelief "you just love that, don't you?" and I do, because they never expect to see DIFFERENT and they just did.
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my wife & daughter get such a kick out of how many people have to stop & ask about our little 6. usually end up with one of 3 questions. how much horsepower? how quick in the 1/4? or how's the gas mileage? LOL We have more fun with this little car, than I ever did with the Big Block in the Dart. since I wont throw a cage or slicks on this one its a lot more of a handful than the big block was.
 
volaredon said:
"different" is why I kept the/6 in my truck.
I keep toying with the idea of a small turbo, and though I've been told "it isn't as good" I don't know why, I keep wanting to do it as draw thru.
Going by seeing what some of you / guys have done and the dyno results I have seen from others who have built their engine combos very similar to mine even w/o the turbo I'm thinking I won't have any problem meeting my goal of somewhere in between the stock HP of a 318 and that of a 360 of the day from when my truck was new. Which would only be 140-160hp... Same power from a /6 as a stock V8, while being lighter than the V8, should move that d150 pretty decently. I never planned it as a race truck.
Yeah I'm going off of other people's dyno results and parts combos to guess what mine might do, but I did actually have the exact head that's sitting on mine, flowed...... With much assistance from "my68barracuda" here on the board.
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John is a good dude for sure.
 
Bottom line is the age old answer to the question: why do most all Mopar people all like weid stuff"? Just 'cause/
Then the second questio: If a Mopar guy hates on the slant, is he really a real Mopar guy!??" Maybe not!??? :poke: :BangHead: :thumbsup:
 
barbee6043 said:
Bottom line is the age old answer to the question: why do most all Mopar people all like weid stuff"? Just 'cause/
Then the second questio: If a Mopar guy hates on the slant, is he really a real Mopar guy!??" Maybe not!??? :poke: :BangHead: :thumbsup:
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That's always been my feeling too.
 
dirty white boy said:
its got .007 more compression height as the 2.2 silverlites??????
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But the 2.2 pistons require the 198 con rods, which are very hard to find. Or the Molner/K-1 rods. either one is a fair amount of money.
Edit: You can't use the Molner/K-1 rods, as those rods are for full floating pins, and those pistons are for press pins, and don't have provision for pin locks.
 
Charrlie_S said:
But the 2.2 pistons require the 198 con rods, which are very hard to find. Or the Molner/K-1 rods. either one is a fair amount of money.
Edit: You can't use the Molner/K-1 rods, as those rods are for full floating pins, and those pistons are for press pins, and don't have provision for pin locks.
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ok,..ill be quite and go set in the corner now... whats compression height of stock 225 piston?
 
Charrlie_S said:
But the 2.2 pistons require the 198 con rods, which are very hard to find. Or the Molner/K-1 rods. either one is a fair amount of money.
Edit: You can't use the Molner/K-1 rods, as those rods are for full floating pins, and those pistons are for press pins, and don't have provision for pin locks.
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maybe these be better, on 2225 rod will be .075 below stander deck height, not quite as big round so leave a lil more meat to the cylinders...dome top but not real deep!
Silvolite 1718.STD Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons | Summit Racing
 
dirty white boy said:
maybe these be better, on 2225 rod will be .075 below stander deck height, not quite as big round so leave a lil more meat to the cylinders...dome top but not real deep!
Silvolite 1718.STD Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons | Summit Racing
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That would raise the piston top compared to the stock piston, but you would lose some compression with the dish. Also the pin is a smaller diameter, so the rod would need to be bushed. I don't know if that would be feasible, with a press fit.

Why don't we take this to another thread. We're hijacking RRR's thread
 
I thought I would add this here, too since this is my engine build thread. I got the gear drive completely figured out. Now all I have to do is get the now engine side of the crank gear chamfered, since using the gear drive required flipping the gear around backwards from the usual direction, find true TDC with a piston stop and get the degree wheel on it so that I can also correctly locate the camshaft at TDC as well and remark both gears. The gears ended up with only about .004" play and that equates to less than one degree of timing slop. Much less than a freshly broken in chain.

SLANT GEAR DRIVE1.JPG


SLANT GEAR DRIVE2.JPG
 
Found TDC on the crank and cam and marked the gears for now with a black sharpie. lol I'll remove them and make a mark on the drill press with a small drill bit. The gears are pretty hard. The center punch wouldn't do it.
TIMING ALIGNED & MARKED.JPG
 
Freddie came by and picked the cam and crank gears. He's going to put the chamfer on the crank gear and mark both gears with a small hole on each.
 
Gears are done. I gotta go pick um up tomorrow.
 
Slant 6 specific windage tray. Thanks to my friend Stan, (@Hyper_pak) for the great deal on it. Were it not for people like you, this project would not be happening.
DSCF2456.JPG
 
Got back from Freddie's and the gears are marked with the chamfer cut on the now rear of the crank gear. Freddie said none of his drill bit would even scratch the gears they were so hard, so he used a carbide burr. lol Now all I have to do is save up for the camshaft and I can assemble the rest. That's gonna be a bit, though.
GEARS MARKED.JPG
 
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